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1958 sprite lug bolts

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sim

sim

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Paint shop broke a lug bolt off on rear drum. Do you think a Napa store would have some? As many cars had these.
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Not likely since no modern cars use anything that small. You'll have to order from one of the usual suppliers.
 
Love the paint job, very nice!
 
Drew going to go similar with Bugsy II but wider stripes like the '59 that was in Fl. help me price my Bugeye thread from a few months back.
 
drooartz said:
Love the paint job, very nice!
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thanks Best part is I got her back home with out catching fire or crashing it. Now I need to start on the 56 year maintenance scheduled. First thing in stall new lug bolts on the rear. Paint shop used a heavy wrench and broke one off. Stop the fuel pump from leaking. Adjust the valve train so all the push rods Line up with the rockers and set gap. The noise rattled my head all the way home. Then install new Bushing front and back. New swivel pins and then a sway bar.
 
I went with longer, oversize studs when I re-restored my car. If it snapped off being tightened... you know what I mean? It's apparently standard practice on race cars, so I figured it's probably a good idea in general. It's not a really hard job-- you drift (pound!) the existing studs from the hub flanges, drill out the holes to the appropriate size and pound in the new ones. It might be a problem if you want to run the stock steel wheels and hubcaps-- the lug holes in the wheels might need to be drilled out and countersunk as well and the studs shortened to clear the hubcaps. I got mine from Winner's Circle in Ohio, but this was about 15 years ago. If you know the specs of the studs, a really good auto parts store can look'em up.
 
johntennyson said:
I went with longer, oversize studs when I re-restored my car. If it snapped off being tightened... you know what I mean? It's apparently standard practice on race cars, so I figured it's probably a good idea in general. It's not a really hard job-- you drift (pound!) the existing studs from the hub flanges, drill out the holes to the appropriate size and pound in the new ones. It might be a problem if you want to run the stock steel wheels and hubcaps-- the lug holes in the wheels might need to be drilled out and countersunk as well and the studs shortened to clear the hubcaps. I got mine from Winner's Circle in Ohio, but this was about 15 years ago. If you know the specs of the studs, a really good auto parts store can look'em up.
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Thanks I used the standard ones. It took a bit to pull the axle bearing out and a bit more to press out the old studs and then it took even more force to press in the new ones. So the right side is good. i will do the left side when i break one,
 
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