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1500 crank/pulley nut removal

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Morris

Morris

Yoda
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I have tried PB blaster, heat, a giant rachet, a hammer and cursing. The cursing seemed to be the most effective.

Any top secret tricks?
 
More of the same.
 
I have put all the strength my frail little body has into it, and it ain't budgin'. I even put a jack on the rachet. I jacked the car up an inch, but the nut did not move. Is it reverse threaded or something?
 
On the 1275 there is a tabbed retaining washer. I'm assuming you checked for that. I would suggest an impact gun. Can you you the starter method?
 
Hi Morris, last I heard the nut is not a reverse thread, but jcatnite went through the pain of this at some point, so hopefully he will chime in. I don't believe there is a tabbed washer on the 1500, but the nut seems to take a lot of coaxing from what I've heard. Good luck!
-Dave
 
No tabbed washer on the 1500. Not reverse threaded either... normal threads. Impact wrench didn't budge it. I ended up using a 1/2" drive, 2 ft. breaker bar and the 4 ft handle from my floor jack over that to give enough leverage to break the #$(@$@# thing free.
 
I have used 3/4" drive socket with breaker bar and jack handle and jumped from a second story on to it with success.

just kidding about the second story hehehe

I will have take mine off soon and it will probably be a pitfa also.
 
My Technique (recently)

1) Put car on lift
2) Drop oil pan & wedge crank with a big freaking spanner (to keep it from turning)
3) Buy proper 3/4" drive socket & use biggest breaker bar you have
4) Find an "appropriate" 5 foot long cheater pipe & slide it over breaker bar
5) Align the whole mess so the pipe is resting on floor (to the right as viewed from the front of the car)
6) Let the lift down
7) Have tea /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
TA-DAAA!!!

Only other way I know is R&R engine and a liberal application of a 3/4" "windy" (air ratchet).
 
[ QUOTE ]
1) Put car on lift

[/ QUOTE ]

See, honey, I told you we need to buy a lift!
 
Else-wise... You could go to the pub & find yourself a big dumb friend. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
I think I AM the big and dumb component of most of my friendships...
 
[ QUOTE ]

See, honey, I told you we need to buy a lift!

[/ QUOTE ]
My Technique (untried)

1) Buy enough LBC's to completely fill the garage.
2) Wait one summer (while SHMBO gets plenty POed about always having to get in a hot car)
3) Offer a solution to the "garage space" problem.
4) Have tea /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Morris: Hap Waldrun of Acme Speed Shop sent me the following to forward to you:

"Tell him for me please, to put the 1/2 ratchet on there with the proper socket and rotate with it set to clockwise till it touches the frame on the left side/driver side, then switch to counter clockwise and hit the starter. That's a old trick that works well."
 
Wow......I really like that one!!!

Just when you think you've tried everything.

[EDIT] That must be the "Starter Method" that Trevor mentioned earlier.
 
Morris,
I feel your pain bud. I recently went through the same deal. I was doing it with the engine in the car so that made it a little easier (sort of) since the motor mounts would hold the block for me. What I ended up doing was getting a 3/4" drive 6 point 1 7/8" ( I think) socket. I took the oil pan off and wedged a 2x4 between the crank and the block. Then I used a 3/4" breaker bar with a 3 foot cheater bar (piece of pipe) and the darn thing came right off. I've since bought a 450ftlb impact wrench so I'm hoping that it won't be as difficult next time. The clutch will not hold it if you are relying on the transmission to break this nut loose. I was afraid to try the starter method but it should have a similar affect as the blocking of the crank. There was enough people calling me a "girly man" when I went through this before, that I decided that either that nut would break free or the crank was going to break. It will come but it takes a lot of persuasion. Sorry, there is no short cut on this one that I know of.
JC
 
If Hap says it'll work - I believe Hap...have you guys seen his shop or the race cars he builds/preps/maintains?
 
Tony, please send my thanks to Hap for his input. But... I think that trick must only work on high quality A-series motors. Not BL crap like my motor.

Good news and bad news. I finally got the nut off. I used the 2X4 and cheater bar trick. I cut a board so that one end would rest on the the ground and the other in the block. I tried it on the passenger's side first. I lifted the car off the stands! Stuck it in the other side, gave it my all and.... pop!

Bad news is I honed my cylinders and discoverd long nasty scratches that I had not seen before. So, in spite of all my effort to avoid the machine shop...

I need to start keeping a tally of all the time and money I have blown trying to save time and money.
 
I've used it many times, but wouldn't suggest it here. I've also seen it shatter sockets or launch broken bits of cheap breaker bars across shops... Not really a "first attempt" kinda method.
 
well i will admit to being somewhat apprehensive , about blocking the crank against the side of that rather thin looking casting, and then cheater baring on the nut......sure looked like a recipe for disaster to me. Not the kind of thing i would really want to suggest to some one.



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