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1275
- Thread starter 66sprite
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Many parts will fit, but not work as well as 1275 parts. It makes more sense to sell your 1098 and use the money to fund the bits you need to complete the 1275.
For instance; your 1098, most likley came with a 12g295 head. It will bolt on the the 1275, but produce less horsepower than the 12g1361 or 12g940 "big valve" heads specifically designed to cope with the bigger engine. The 1 1/4 carbs are in the same category: they bolt on, but don't perform as well as the 1 1/2 units that came on the 1275s.
Then there are the parts that may work, but "If I were rebuilding the engine" I wouldn't reuse anyway. The water pump, oil pump, cam and lifters come to mind. It's not a small amount of cost to replace all of these, but they are difficult to get to if they prove to be defective in that new engine. They also run the risk of damaging many other components if they are defective. As a matter of course I budget for them when I requild. I don't want to run the risk of touching the engine twice!
If your transmission is the "rib case" type, it is good for the 1275. the clutch, cover (pressure) plate and flywheel are different and don't bolt directly.
For instance; your 1098, most likley came with a 12g295 head. It will bolt on the the 1275, but produce less horsepower than the 12g1361 or 12g940 "big valve" heads specifically designed to cope with the bigger engine. The 1 1/4 carbs are in the same category: they bolt on, but don't perform as well as the 1 1/2 units that came on the 1275s.
Then there are the parts that may work, but "If I were rebuilding the engine" I wouldn't reuse anyway. The water pump, oil pump, cam and lifters come to mind. It's not a small amount of cost to replace all of these, but they are difficult to get to if they prove to be defective in that new engine. They also run the risk of damaging many other components if they are defective. As a matter of course I budget for them when I requild. I don't want to run the risk of touching the engine twice!
If your transmission is the "rib case" type, it is good for the 1275. the clutch, cover (pressure) plate and flywheel are different and don't bolt directly.
About the only parts that are interchangable are the carbs, manifolds, and distributor.
As Thomp said, the head will bolt on and work but not well.
Don't even think about reusing an oil pump on a rebuild, and the water pump is cheap enough although all A series use the same pump.
The tranny will work but not the clutch/flywheel. 1098s used a 4 bolt flywheel and a 7" clutch, 1275s used a 6 bolt flywheel with a 6.5" clutch.
As Thomp said, the head will bolt on and work but not well.
Don't even think about reusing an oil pump on a rebuild, and the water pump is cheap enough although all A series use the same pump.
The tranny will work but not the clutch/flywheel. 1098s used a 4 bolt flywheel and a 7" clutch, 1275s used a 6 bolt flywheel with a 6.5" clutch.
The 1098 carbs are virtually identical to the 1275's with the exception of needle selection. The intake manifold is the same. 1098 exhaust manifolds are slightly more restrictive than the 1275 units, but will bolt on, and you can use your existing exhaust.
The water pump pulley from the 1098 will work, and ideally you should use the 1275 crank pulley, as it is also a harmonic balancer.
Jeff
The water pump pulley from the 1098 will work, and ideally you should use the 1275 crank pulley, as it is also a harmonic balancer.
Jeff
dklawson
Yoda
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Since you're rebuilding the 1275, there is a high-flow water pump available for it. Sorry... I don't remember the number off the top of my head but it's available from Mini Mania and Mini Spares. You may also want to consider a better cam like the Swiftune SW5 (if this is a street car). The big valve 12G940 heads are really nice also. Seven Enterprises sells these rebuilt with a 3-angle valve job for about $500. (It's fun to think of ways to spend someone else's money).
EDIT: The following link is for information... not a sales promotion.
https://www.minimania.com/web/Item/GWP134/AddedFrom/Search2%2DWATER%20PUMP/InvDetail.cfm
BTW, as other have mentioned, most of your other, external engine components from the 1098 (starter, generator/alternator) should transfer to the 1275.
EDIT: The following link is for information... not a sales promotion.
https://www.minimania.com/web/Item/GWP134/AddedFrom/Search2%2DWATER%20PUMP/InvDetail.cfm
BTW, as other have mentioned, most of your other, external engine components from the 1098 (starter, generator/alternator) should transfer to the 1275.
George Zeck
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Just went through the same item. Couldn't give the 1098 away. Used same carb's. But "while I'm at it" became a dirty word and replaces almost everything. Do it once - do it right.
Carbs are bolt on. Upgraded ignition to Petronix at same time, upgraded to a real fuse box. Might want to consider going with an alternator. Bracket is a bear - but worthit in the end. Alt = cheap & reliable // Gen = more $$ & less power.
Email me with any questions. I did have the engine rebuilt vs. doing it myself (not that handy).
Carbs are bolt on. Upgraded ignition to Petronix at same time, upgraded to a real fuse box. Might want to consider going with an alternator. Bracket is a bear - but worthit in the end. Alt = cheap & reliable // Gen = more $$ & less power.
Email me with any questions. I did have the engine rebuilt vs. doing it myself (not that handy).
The 1275 can use a 'ball bearing' throwout. A good thing!
"H6" Needles work great in a 1275, but you might need to adjust the springs and/or oil. I used '3 in 1' with good results with 'red' springs. Depends on the cam and ....
The 1275 also sits ~1/4" lower in the chassis because of the the head height of the 1098.
Take care-Steve
"H6" Needles work great in a 1275, but you might need to adjust the springs and/or oil. I used '3 in 1' with good results with 'red' springs. Depends on the cam and ....
The 1275 also sits ~1/4" lower in the chassis because of the the head height of the 1098.
Take care-Steve