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1275 Timing advice

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nathandarby67

nathandarby67

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Hi all. I've got a 1973 Midget, and just finished putting on new coil/points/condensor/rotor/cap/plugs/wires/etc. I finished adjusting the valves, and now need to time the car. The engine is stock except the air pump and related junk have been removed. My shop manual says to set the static timing at 0 degrees, or in other words right at TDC. however, for 1275 midgets made in 1972 and earlier it lists 5-7 degrees BTDC. I was wondering if my car's recommendations are different because of the introduction of emission controls? Now that there is no air pump, should I advance my timing more? What static and dynamic timing settings have others found work the best?

Also, my shop manual shows the timing pointer on my car as having 3 points on it, however my car has a timing pointer with 5 points like on an MGB. I assume the first pointer is TDC, and the others represent 5 degree increments BTDC. Anyone know if this is correct?

THANKS!!
 
Nathan, with the 5 point timing indicator, the first, or longest, pointer is TDC, and the rest are at 5 degree increments.
7 BTDC is correct for static, and 16 @ 1000 is used with a timing light.
I run mine so I have about 32 at 2500 ~ 3000 RPM.
Jeff
 
What is the engine type? 12V or 12CJ?
 
Static is only so you can get it started and then use a timeing light.
 
Like Jack and Jeff said, static timing to start, then use a light set the dynamic timing. Like Jeff, I run the engine up to 3-4k RPM and set the timing for around 32 BTDC. Then I drive the car and listen for pinging. If I hear any, I retard the timing about 2 degrees and repeat the test drive making adjustments until any pinging goes away.
 
Wow! Great responses so far....thanks! Yes, 12V engine. Before I posted this thread, I set the static at about 5 degrees BTDC, then went for a test drive. I played with the vernier adjustment while driving, and it felt stronger the more I advanced it, so I feel like y'all are right on with the 7 degrees BTDC. I can't locate my timing light (I have moved since the last time I used it...probably lost it somewhere), but when I get one I will re-set the static to 7 and dial in the dynamic from there.

A quick question for those who check it at 32 degrees of advance at 2500 rpm: How do you figure out where 32 degrees is located? Even if I have a 5 point indicator, that only gives me to 20 degrees of advance. Do you just measure from there and make your own mark where you estimate 32 degrees to be?

All of this trouble wiggling around under the car to set the timing has definately got me wanting to develop some kind of timing indicator I can install on the top side of the engine!

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Nathan, there is no need to reset the static timing before checking it dynamically.
As far as the 32 degree measurement, there are adjustable timing lights that have a dial that indicates the firing position.
Or, you can measure the diameter of the dampener, do the math and mark it accordingly.
A more accessible timing pointer is always a good thing, but you are going to have to reestablish the mark on the dampener,
Jeff
 
I use an "advance" timing light like Jeff said. These are the ones with the knob on the back (if it's analog). When using those lights, you set the knob to 32 degrees and when you're timing the engine you line up the zero (TDC) mark up with the pointer.

The alternative is to mark the pulley. That's what I did before buying the advance type timing light.
 
Not to hijack Nathan, but I'm in the same position, need to do a good dynamic timing (to the midget, the BGT a friends B and BGT)
Is there a timing light that is particularly well recommended or will any strobe type do?
 
once ur car is running, just adjust in little increment back or forth till u get the best response and smooth acceleration......all motors will have different timing because of wear etc....z
 
I'm sure there are lots of nicer advance timing lights than mine. There is an Actron model (which I have) sold under various brand names that you'll routinely see on eBay and other places. It works well and typically can be bought as NOS or good used for around $25. The biggest gripe I have with it is that the handle is very uncomfortable. If I were made of money I'd consider one of the high-end digital models that use the inductive pickup to give you a tach reading on a built in digital display. Those lights give it all to you in one hand-held tool.

If you're willing to mark your crank pulley, a normal light without advance will do just fine and these can be bought anywhere from parts stores to Sears for also for around $25.
 
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