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1275 teardown continues, a few questions

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drooartz

drooartz

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So I made some more progress on my 1275 teardown. Got the cam, tappets, and pistons out.

1275parts.jpg


1275block.jpg


Next questions:

1. How do I get the main bearing caps off? I've got the bolts out, and the 2 small extra hex screws front the front cap -- the caps don't seem to want to budge.

2. Do I remove the back plate? This motor will be heading off to a machine shop for a full cleaning and whatever work needs to be done. I'll be using the corresponding ribcase transmission.

3. Anything I should be measuring/inspecting at this point? Let me know and I'll grab specific pictures for some online consultations.

I'm excited -- Hap should have received my head and carbs by now, and I'll be calling him next week to set the work in motion. Hope to have the block all the way torn down this weekend, so it's time to find a good local machine shop and get things moving.
 
Drew, just gentle nudges from side to side with a plastic or rawhide mallet shoould free the main caps. Or, a block of wood and a smallish hammer. The two countersunk screws on the front plate are out, correct?
You'll want to remove both front and rear plates before taking it to the machine shop. After removing the rear plate, take the oil pump off and throw it away, but keep the little driving spider, if it didn't already come out with the cam. I don't see it in the picture. After you take the crank out, loosely reattach the main bearing caps in their proper locations and orientation.
You marked the rod caps and rods so they can't get mixed up, didn't you? You'll want to reassemble them for the shop, too. Make sure they have the new rod bolts in place before they resize the rods.
Just how far are you planning on going with this one?
If I knew more about your ultimate plans I could probably be of more help.
Jeff
 
Drew,

Good pictures. I've gt my engine on the stand and I'm just starting to put it back together. Take as many pictures as you can. I'm already finding out that I should have taken more.

As far as the rod caps and rods go, at least in my engine they're numbered so its easy for reassembly, 1 goes with 2, 2 w/2 etc.
 
I did take the 2 small counter-sunk screws out.

I'm going for a strong street motor. I'll replace whatever bits are necessary, including pistons, cam, etc. I don't want to have to redo this, so I'm trying to make the best decisions I can as I go along. This will be a naturally-aspirated motor, with a ribcase 4-speed and twin SUs. Possibly I'll be using a different intake and headers if that seems to be the way to go.

All the bits are laid out on my bench in the proper order, so I can get them back together as necessary.

Any other information I should put together to assist in helping me along?
 
More progress, the block is now stripped out as far as I (think) I need to have it down.

Two of the little collars that the main caps fit over didn't come out with the caps. I'm figuring that the machine can remove them with less damage than I would probably cause. The bottom 1/2 of the dipstick tube is still in there, since it broke in half when I tried to remove it. I also had already left the scroll-seal piece on the block, and now have confirmation from Jeff that I should leave it on.

Anything else I need to remove before I'm ready for the shop? My next set of questions will be on what to tell/ask the shop, and some more specifics on exactly what bits I'll be using. Need to call Hap early next week to put together the initial map.

1275crank.jpg


1275blockstripped.jpg
 
Lookin' good, Drew. Don't worry about the main cap locators. They usually stay in the block.
It looks from here as though it's ready to go to the shop. I'd suggest that you talk to the place you finally select about what they'll require prior to doing the work. Usually, it'll be pistons and rings if it's being bored, rod bolts, main cap studs, etc. If you are going to have it balanced, they'll need all the rotating/reciprocating parts including flywheel, clutch and front damper, including the bolt.
Jeff
 
That's a heavy piece of cast iron to ship all the way across the country. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

I do wish I lived closer, it would be nice to have the block in the hands of someone I can trust to know the A series blocks.
 
Check the bus line for shipping. Or the local frieght guys. Or a local household furniture mover. Or just ask any of these folks. Must be a freight forwarder in your area to talk to.


You would not beleive the weight of some of the stuff I have shipped.
 
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