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1275 Spridget Muffler Options

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Kurtis

Kurtis

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I currently have a rather loud and obnoxious glass pack "muffler" on my 1275 powered Bugeye. I'd like to replace it with something with a little less bark. I like the price of the stock 1275 single muffler that Moss sells, and I really like the sound of my Monza exhaust system on my TR4.

What's everyone's opinions? Will the Monza system on my Bugeye sound similar to my Monza equipped TR4, or will it be obnoxious sounding as well? What about the stock system? I don't know that I've ever even heard a stock mufflered 1275.

Thanks.
 
I fitted a mid 70's Chevy Citation muffler. Basically went to the local parts store and looked at the inventory. 2X as large and 2X as long.

You need a good area to weld it together and size the ~ 1.25 pipe (stock) to the 1 7/8 pipe. EVERYONE who has seen the car has been how quiet it is (I almost can sneak up on people).

Tx-

George Zeck
 
I don't want it too quite... Just not so grating. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
I guess loud exhausts and age have something in common.
Last year I decided my glasspack was too loud so I tried a couple different mufflers that were hanging around my and my son's garages. I opted for a JC Whitney dual glass pack or double glass pack, I forget exactly what they call it but it's much better than the cherry bomb I had, it's still loud enough but not too loud for a 50 year old /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
It was around $25 and in the generic muffler section.
And it comes in 1.75 ID.
 
Another possibility -- on the 1500's, at least, there are actually two mufflers (a resonator and a muffler). The stock arrangement comes to the left of the fuel tank (viewed from the rear) with the resonator, then takes a 90 degree bend around the tank to the right. The muffler exits to the right of the car.

The reason I mention this is because if you've already got a decent glasspack (not just a 'cherry bomb' but one with some reasonable thickness of fiberglass in the can), you can actually put two in series. According to "The Scientific Design of Intake and Exhaust Systems" which I have on my bookshelf, the reduction in sound is nonlinear (i.e. two glasspacks reduce the noise more than double effect of a single one). If the noise isn't TOO grating, it may be just the ticket. I plan to setup something along these lines (perhaps with a turbo muffler as the secondary instead of a glasspack) to minimize my performance loss but make the car significantly quieter.
 
George, do you have any pictures of the Citation muffler? Is it a cylinder, or an oval? What year Citation was it for?

I've got the single Moss muffler and I think it does have a bit too much bark. I've always thought the car could be quieter. Thanks.

https://tinyurl.com/7abt5
 
My Friend has the monza on his 1275, and it is not that loud at all. In fact it sounds pretty good. just for the record i was impressed at how quiet it was and i am not a big fan of noisy cans.


mark
 
I didn't really need to replace my exhaust several years ago and wrestled with a few questions that you are asking, but haven't quite asked? What works and sounds best. Questioning everybody about exhuast back pressure, and getting a lot of different answers. What Vissard says is no back pressure is the best. Anybody that tells you otherwise, just hasn't tuned the carbs correctly. It is a system, and does not work indepently. The largest dia that works is better, I went with a 2" ID. The muffler shop bent the pipe and put an oval muffler on it and I have been really happy with it since.
 
Actually the size of the pipe IS very important. A mild tuning likes a 1 3/4 inch tube all the way to the rear. A full on car(11 to 1 or more with .5" lift and 290+ duration) likes a 2" pipe all the way back. Kicking the exhaust out in front of the rear wheel works ok only at7500 plus and limits the throttle response/drivability.
The velosity of the exhaust affects the intake charge greatly. Basically if you slow the exhaust by going to a larger diameter pipe you will reduce the scavenge effect that pulls a fresh charge of fuel into the combustion chamber. A nice can type hi flow muffler of the proper size will work great. Some "glasspacks can inhibit gas flow. A mild tuning will work fine with a glasspack and pipe of 1 3/4" size.
 
I will be running a .5 lift, 290 plus duration with a LCB 1 3/4 and a RC40.
 
Pacesetter Monza is a great choice for a 1275. Often on ebay for about $110.
 
Thats a pretty hot cam for the street GB1, what's the centerline or lobe separation number on that cam, unless that centerline number is 106 or above, that thing will be a hand full on the street. I'm guessing you are using 1.5 rocker arms to get to .500" lift. With those numbers your low end grunt will be pretty much gone, which is bad for the street, probably will be dead under 3500 rpms. If it were me, I would re think that cam and opt for something that won't rob your low end so much. In most engines including our little LBC lumps we have about a 3500 rpm powerband range to work with, maybe 4 grand with some serious carb tuning, all a high lift/duration cam does is move that powerband up the RPM range which is fine and dandy in a race engine where you will be at full throttle most of the time, but on the street you're in traffic, you got red lights etc. and this where a "high strung" will be no fun. I hope I don't offend by saying any of this, just warning you of a road I've already traveled.
 
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