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TR2/3/3A TR6 gearbox with TR3 clutch......which way to mount the throw out bearing .....

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karls59tr

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I just read this in an older post :......the flat face presses on the clutch pressure plate for TR2-4..........0n the 4A-6 the pressure plate is different & so is the bearing. For this the rounded face presses against the pressure plate. I am running a TR6 gearbox and use a TR3 clutch (no issues for 20 years) this TR3 type clutch clutch pressure plate is the one with the 3 levers not the diaphram type so the flat side of the throw out bearing presses against the pressure plate right?:unsure:
 
karls59tr said:
I just read this in an older post :......the flat face presses on the clutch pressure plate for TR2-4..........0n the 4A-6 the pressure plate is different & so is the bearing. For this the rounded face presses against the pressure plate. I am running a TR6 gearbox and use a TR3 clutch (no issues for 20 years) this TR3 type clutch clutch pressure plate is the one with the 3 levers not the diaphram type so the flat side of the throw out bearing presses against the pressure plate right?:unsure:
Click to expand...
Both throw out bearings have a face that rotates and a back side that is solid. You ALWAYS put the side that rotates against the fingers or apperature.
Charley
 
There are limits to the life of the old 3 armed clutch If you clean and inspect it when
doing the disc, be sure to lube the pivot points just a bit with a high temp lube.
These can wear badly and then fail. Then you walk home.....
Mad dog
 
mctriumph said:
There are limits to the life of the old 3 armed clutch If you clean and inspect it when
doing the disc, be sure to lube the pivot points just a bit with a high temp lube.
These can wear badly and then fail. Then you walk home.....
Mad dog
Click to expand...
Hey Mad dog Are there any warning signs when you are driving and the pivot points on the 3 arm clutch are about to fail such as noise? or does the gear box just fail to shift? Also...have you ever taken apart a TR3 gearbox top cover to replace the 3 'O" ring seals that are known to leak? How difficult is this to do? I currently have a unit that is on the bench and is jammed in 4th gear and I believe the detents and shifter balls on the rod are buggered up somehow. I did manage to find a good top cover that is currently on the TR3 but I'm thinking of a DIY repair in the winter time on the jammed one? Karl
 
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If you inspect your arms where they contact the bearing, and they are thin and shinny. You
need to replace it as the pivots will fail with no warning.
Take the time to carefully rebuild the top cover and install new seals on the shafts.These are
a major source of leaks that drip onto the trans mount. I like to put the mount into a zip lock bag
and then install it , if the leaks are not too bad.
Mad dog
 
mctriumph said:
If you inspect your arms where they contact the bearing, and they are thin and shinny. You
need to replace it as the pivots will fail with no warning.
Take the time to carefully rebuild the top cover and install new seals on the shafts.These are
a major source of leaks that drip onto the trans mount. I like to put the mount into a zip lock bag
and then install it , if the leaks are not too bad.
Mad dog
Click to expand...
I think the arm I need is for the 3rd and 4th gear that is jammed. N/A at Moss! Years ago I sold the top of a 3 gearbox that had the dipstick....I should have hung on to that. At any rate a club member had a gearbox shifter top in good shape so I have that but I was thinking of repairing the jammed one in the winter off season.
 
By far the hardest part of rebuilding the gearbox shifter/cover is removing the stamped steel shift lever retainer. If it has been installed a long time, you may have to cut it off and replace it with a new retainer. The steel corrodes galvanically with the aluminum tower, locking the 2 together. The retainer is not expensive, though. Once that is removed, then you remove the forks from the rods, and the plugs from the side and top of the shifter mechanism. Each of these plugs has a grouping of balls, springs, and sometimes pegs. Be ready to catch these and keep them together and in order, so assembly is not complicated. If they get mixed up, then follow the manual exactly, or the shifter will never work!

Once those are out, then the 3 rods can be slid out to the rear. The seals are under a metal retainer, also at the rear of the shifter rods.
 
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