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I managed to shear the small cotter pin (#52) nut and it now needs replacing (see illustration below). Is the sequence of removal for what remains of the small pin? Perhaps it could be drifted out and not damage the lower fulcrum link (#65). Also, if the lower link cotter pins (#73) need to be removed, do the lower link bushes (#68 & #70) need to come out first? The workshop manual is a little vague on removal sequence. Also, the front shock will be replaced with remanufactured ones. The front suspension springs will be removed first so that on assembly the suspension could be tighten in "load" position after the cotter pins and shocks are installed. Gonzo.
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Kingpin Cotter Pin Removal
- Thread starter gonzo
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You should be able to remove the center cotter pin (#52) without any further disassembly (other than the spring!).
You would have to remove the two lower link cotter pins (#73) to be able to remove the bushes (#68 and 70).
You would have to remove the two lower link cotter pins (#73) to be able to remove the bushes (#68 and 70).
red57
Jedi Knight
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I agree with Bob, the cotter (#52) is a simple taper and can be driven upwards out of the hole after removing the nut & washer.
However the other two cotters (#73) are not simply tapered, they have an arched cut away in the side that matches the curvature of the threaded bushes (#68 & 70). In this case you must loosen them and bump them up a bit to relieve the clamping force on the bushes and then unscrew the bushes and then the pins will drop out (you do not need to remove the nut). The bushes have a slight recess in the center of them for the cotter to sit in.
Sorry for the poor quality sketch but don't have any of these parts handy for pictures.
However the other two cotters (#73) are not simply tapered, they have an arched cut away in the side that matches the curvature of the threaded bushes (#68 & 70). In this case you must loosen them and bump them up a bit to relieve the clamping force on the bushes and then unscrew the bushes and then the pins will drop out (you do not need to remove the nut). The bushes have a slight recess in the center of them for the cotter to sit in.
Sorry for the poor quality sketch but don't have any of these parts handy for pictures.
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Thank you for the illustration! I removed both cotter pin types - tapered and half-moons. The lower control arms bores, where the lower link bushes reside, needed slight honing to clean them up a bit. New lower link bushes will be installed since some of the older ones were distorted by too tightly torqued half-moon cotters. For the upper trunnion link bushes, Superpro polyurethane bush set are going to be used. Kingpins are fine. Suggestions about lowering suspension with 1/2 inch spacers? At the moment the front end is higher than the rear and I'd like to even it out and also close the front wheel arch gap. Gonzo
red57
Jedi Knight
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Adjusting suspension height is quite straightforward. It's nominally a 2:1 ratio between the spring pan spacers and the height change so if you want to lower the front by 1/2", use 1/4" spacers - if you want to lower 1 ", use 1/2" spacers or any multiple. I have used spacers and/or stacks of flat washers to get what I want. May take a few 'trial & error' settings to dial it in but relieving the spring tension is the biggest challenge.
In theory, whatever thickness spacer you use, you should shim up the rebound rubber bumper (inside the spring, bolted to the spring pan) the same distance so you still have a limit to the suspension travel.
In theory, whatever thickness spacer you use, you should shim up the rebound rubber bumper (inside the spring, bolted to the spring pan) the same distance so you still have a limit to the suspension travel.