Water Pump - 4, 5 or 6 Vanes?

[RJS]

Hi All,

I believe the days for my water pump are numbered. Started making horrible noises today.

Any suggestions on purchasing a replacement? I typically have no cooling issues so, priority is to install a well engineered, well manufactured unit that will go the distance.

Any recommendations or experience (good or bad)? Also, any thoughts on these units with 5 or 6 curved vanes (vs. the stock 4 flat vanes)?

Thanks,

Bob

 

[TR3driver]

Not that it helps much, but I have been very happy with the aftermarket pump (with the pressed-on pulley) that I got from Moss many years ago. Even more so since I had an original-type pump lose the pulley while driving down the freeway. Unfortunately, Moss no longer carries it, and I have no idea if the one from VB is the same or not. Note that, to use this type of pump, you have to install a stud in place of the bolt that is normally captured by the pulley.

Might be that the curved vane pumps would work better under some circumstances, but I tried one and it seemed like the engine actually ran a bit hotter at low rpm (although that might be just because that is what I expected).

Just for amusement, here are some comparative photos
https://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh260/TR3driver/TR3-4%20Water%20Pumps/

 

[vivdownunder]

Consider rebuilding the one you have - 2 x bearings, bearing seal and impeller seal. Better the devil you know.

There have been some horror stories with repop asian made water pumps. Narrower than original vanes causing overheating, 6 vanes pumping coolant through the radiator too quickly, internal surface rust (while on the shelf) chopping out seals, dodgy quality bearings and seals etc.

That said, I've never had any trouble with items purchased from TRF over many years.

Viv.

 

[RJS]

Hi All

Coming back to my original post from 13 years ago! Now that the TR4A is stored for the winter, I am spending too much time online researching things. Further mine below, I did end up installing a 6-vane "up-rated" pump from Moss (Moss #835-071. The box also showed QHQCP170X) in July of 2012.

Re water pump vanes, I've read that minimal clearance b/t the impeller vanes and the back of the water pump housing is key. The ideal gap is 1mm to 2mm. Anything more and the impeller just sloshes the water around, esp at low RPM.

The pump which failed and I replaced looks exactly like this one (Water Pump - 2). The vanes measure 13/16" from the base of the water pump. It was stamped with "PC11A". I don't know the source as the PO installed it but, it appears to match Quinton Hazell part #131-0960.

Otherwise, everything currently available from the big suppliers look like this one (Water Pump - 3). Back in July 2012 I had ordered one (Moss #835-070). I ended up returning that one as the 4-vanes only measured 11/16".

The "up-rated" 6-vane pump has performed well for 12 years and 6,000 miles. But, on the very rare occasion when the car is stuck idling (650 RPM) in 85*F+ temps, the water temp will rise. I am running a completely stock cooling system with original TR4A fan and radiator (boiled and rodded-out - coolant flush and refill every 2 years). Before installing, I measured the vanes. They are sloped/ beveled such that the leading edge on the vane is 11/16" and the trailing edge is 7/16".

I am curious on other people's thoughts/ experiences? I still have the original water pump and thinking I may rebuild for if/when the "uprated" 6-vane pump fails.

Bob

 

[RJS]

Hi All

Coming back to my original post from 13 years ago! Now that the TR4A is stored for the winter, I am spending too much time online researching things. Further mine below, I did end up installing a 6-vane "up-rated" pump from Moss (Moss #835-071. The box also showed QHQCP170X) in July of 2012.

Re water pump vanes, I've read that minimal clearance b/t the impeller vanes and the back of the water pump housing is key. The ideal gap is 1mm to 2mm. Anything more and the impeller just sloshes the water around, esp at low RPM.

The pump which failed and I replaced looks exactly like this one (Water Pump - 2). The vanes measure 13/16" from the base of the water pump. It was stamped with "PC11A". I don't know the source as the PO installed it but, it appears to match Quinton Hazell part #131-0960.

Otherwise, everything currently available from the big suppliers look like this one (Water Pump - 3). Back in July 2012 I had ordered one (Moss #835-070). I ended up returning that one as the 4-vanes only measured 11/16".

The "up-rated" 6-vane pump has performed well for 12 years and 6,000 miles. But, on the very rare occasion when the car is stuck idling (650 RPM) in 85*F+ temps, the water temp will rise. I am running a completely stock cooling system with original TR4A fan and radiator (boiled and rodded-out - coolant flush and refill every 2 years). Before installing, I measured the vanes. They are sloped/ beveled such that the leading edge on the vane is 11/16" and the trailing edge is 7/16".

I am curious on other people's thoughts/ experiences? I still have the original water pump and thinking I may rebuild for if/when the "uprated" 6-vane pump fails.

Bob

Apologies, I incorrectly referred to Water Pump -2 as Quinton Hazell part #131-0960. It is actually (more correctly) Beck Arnley part #131-0960.
Sorry for any confusion caused

Bob

 

[mrv8q]

I have not used this company but a club member used them and was happy:

Triumph Water Pumps

Quality, warranted, rebuilt water pumps for over 20 years. 3 year unlimited mileage warranty! We rebuild and remanufacture water pumps for most import and domestic automobiles, including antiques and classic cars.

water-pump-rebuilders.com

 

[charleyf]

During the time that the 5 and 6 vane pumps first came out I tried one a six vane. What I found was the front bolt holding the pulley was an anemic 5/16" bolt. That in my case failed. I therefore gave up on the "new/ better" pumps.
Charley

 

[Hamish Racing]

A good tolerance 4 vane to the pump housing should be fine.
I have a “new” design angled multi vane one I picked up cheap off a fellow enthusiast but will keep it as a spare for my 3a

 

[mctriumph]

The new 5 blade pumps are a bit tricky to get together. The woodruff key wants to push out as the pulley is
fitted up. The only thing that helped was to loctite the key in the grove. Seems to work fine , once assembled.
Mad dog