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Getting ready to take the head to a machine shop.I am taking the valves out tomorow for inspection. I noticed above the 2nd cylinder
the metal seems to be worn thru. Also a black spot in that area? This is only above the 2nd cylinder no where else. Any ideas on what would cause this and how serious is it?
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TR2/3/3A Cylinder head anomaly....
- Thread starter karls59tr
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Did you inspect the old gasket, for any issues?
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My guess would be gasket breaking down in that area and the black spot is in relation to this.
Head shop should only skim enough to sort historical issues like this.
Replace with a good (soft - annealed) copper or composite gasket.
Head shop should only skim enough to sort historical issues like this.
Replace with a good (soft - annealed) copper or composite gasket.
I've been wondering about how much the machine shop would skim off? I know that the block measures 3.330". I don't know how much has already been taken off the head? This whole issue is new to me. I assume a good head shop would just take off the bare minimum to make it flat. I don't necessarily want to raise compression if it is going to cause other problems. Here are some quotes from a previous discussion on this that I came across: "many have run .070" with no problems" one guy ran "090" for 40 years" "head gasket failure led to .103" off" So at what point can no more material be taken off. A good machinist should know what it is best but are they all familiar with old school 60 year old Brit cylinder heads to make an informed decision?
Yes it is 3.3. Thanks While we are on the subject I am a little confused about the cylinder liner height above the block. I believe it is .004". I am going to measure the height again. What if the height is above .004 say .006 would that cause problems? What if a liner is .002 on one side and .004 on the other side? So when I put the straight edge on the block a .004 gauge should go under but anything above or below that is a problem?
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I think ideally to want .003 to .005as a range for all four.
The Main thing is you want them all the same. Even if all .006 it’s better than .003, .005, .004, .003 .
It’s the gasket that likes the constant for the whole head.
This will also depend a little on what fig 8 gas k eta are being used (new?) steel ones don’t compress where as copper ones do.
If it’s just head off DONT turn the engine as this could dislodge the liners.
If there is a lot off the head already - don’t forget you can get different thickness copper head gaskets to manage this.
And don’t forget the head info here
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IMHO if you do NOT know that the figure 8 gaskets are made of copper, it is time to replace the liners
and pistols. This is doable with the motor in, but much easier with it out. The reason is ,IF the liners set
on aluminum figure 8's they will be shot by now due to corrosion.
Mad dog
and pistols. This is doable with the motor in, but much easier with it out. The reason is ,IF the liners set
on aluminum figure 8's they will be shot by now due to corrosion.
Mad dog
Bob Shaller aka TR3 driver a well know TR3 guru who is no longer with us had a trick he used for problematic head gasket sealing...."Where the liners don't stand up far enough solder a ring of 26 AWG bare copper wire around each cylinder just outside of the folded edge of the head gasket." He states that he did this every time he had this type of problem and never had a head gasket failure on any TR3 after he started doing this. Do you see any problem in me trying this with a new head gasket? Also where to buy the best composite head gasket for 83 mm cylinders. I've seen some improved types but they look like they are just for 87/89 cylinders?
I would get a copper head gasket from either Moss or BPNW. Sure I bet the wire idea would work; it is basically smashing more copper in the liner area. I would was the copper wire trick in a pinch.
When I check the liner height, I first get my eye down on the block and have a look at the top of the sleeves. I can usually see that little bit. Then I measure with the feeler gauge to see imperfection. I have never had block the was under .003 so not sure what to do. On engines I have built some spots are either hard to see or difficult to see and were .003 to .005 kinda even with new liners. It comes down to, do you think there is enough to seal the head on top of the sleeves.
Every time I build an engine I worry, are the fluid going to mix.
It sounds like you have a certain spot that needs addressing. If I figured the chances of leaking were kinda good, I would probably take the pieces to a machine shop to have another set of eyes on it, or take some real good pictures and ask the guys here, or do both.
Steve
When I check the liner height, I first get my eye down on the block and have a look at the top of the sleeves. I can usually see that little bit. Then I measure with the feeler gauge to see imperfection. I have never had block the was under .003 so not sure what to do. On engines I have built some spots are either hard to see or difficult to see and were .003 to .005 kinda even with new liners. It comes down to, do you think there is enough to seal the head on top of the sleeves.
Every time I build an engine I worry, are the fluid going to mix.
It sounds like you have a certain spot that needs addressing. If I figured the chances of leaking were kinda good, I would probably take the pieces to a machine shop to have another set of eyes on it, or take some real good pictures and ask the guys here, or do both.
Steve
charleyf
Luke Skywalker
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Giving credit where it is due.
Your quote accredited to Bob Shaller is actually from Randall Young who's handle was TR3 Driver.
charleyf
Luke Skywalker
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They are both great men and have helped us owners immeasurably.
Also note that if the head is skimmed and you don't want the higher compression, there are thicker head gaskets available that will keep the compression stock.
Dan