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General TR TR3 Shifter on TR6

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RonC

RonC

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I have 2 seasons on my J Type OD tranny transplanted into my TR3A. Shifting difficulty I have had is finding 3rd moving from 2nd and also cleanly down to 4th. I want to remedy and in revisiting my conversion I have a few thoughts on cause. Without enough downward pressure by spring, the shifter end migrates up the shoulder of rail?
The profile for the TR6 shifter shows a collar raising the large spring thus tensioning under cap? The flat ball type of the TR3 could be not giving enough downward spring pressure? Also I read about a rubber hose and washer placed under the top cap as a fix to add a limiter under shifter cap? How did this work?

If I do need to change to a TR6 style shift ball arrangement, I was toying with the idea of removing the longer curved shifter handle since I think it's splined. I could cut off a straight TR3 handle and possibly weld to the TR6 ball unit?
 

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IMHO this is not related to the shifter at all. Whoever built the tranny ,after the new main shaft
was installed, did NOT know his stuff. The book shows how much care goes into a good build,
setting end play on the gears is critical .
The tr3 shifter can go straight into the 6 box if it makes sense to do it.
Mad dog
 
I have a TR6 A type OD in my TR3A with no shifting problems using the TR3 shifter.
Charley
 
My problem is not ease of shifting through gears or selector being in gear, it's the slight vagueness of 3rd location as I cross over and come up from neutral. Thought it could be I have the through bolt and not lateral adjustment pins. Also changes that happened from flat top of ball to stepped shifter profile, hence spring pressure. My transmission is the J type later TR6.
 

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May I ask why use the TR3 shifter instead of the TR6?
I would be looking at the lateral location of the gear lever and/or the size/shape of the end "peg" on the lever.
 
RonC said:
My problem is not ease of shifting through gears or selector being in gear, it's the slight vagueness of 3rd location as I cross over and come up from neutral. Thought it could be I have the through bolt and not lateral adjustment pins. Also changes that happened from flat top of ball to stepped shifter profile, hence spring pressure. My transmission is the J type later TR6.
Click to expand...
Finding 3rd is something that you get used to. There is nothing else up there in that corner but 3rd. I would say all is normal.
I should not have mentioned the difference in type of OD as the TR6 tranny not the OD are the parts in question.
Charley
 
To put a TR6 shift lever in a TR3 puts the lever and dash in conflict.
Charley
 
It sounds like your gate at the end of your 3-4 shift rod is shot. This comes from many, many,MANY shifts sliding across the gate fromt 2-3. If it gets bad enough, the tranny tries to enter 3rd before the lockout balls release 2nd...making the shift lock up. OR, it just makes the neutral area feel wallowy and weird.

Post #25 in this thread shows the gate in the rod end, and how it looks when it wears out.

General Tech - TR2/3 Gearbox Rebuild

Now on to more inspections during a rebuild. Here are 3 3rd gears. At first glance they look about the same, but these are the areas you are looking for... Bad...missing teeth. Oil holes free and clear on both sides. Dog teeth. This gear has relatively rounded dog teeth, so I...
www.britishcarforum.com www.britishcarforum.com

The fix is to find a new rod end, or weld up the old one and grind it back to stock.

The spring should not affect the 1/2/3/4 shifts at all. A weak spring will make it too easy to move over far right to select reverse. If it is too easy, then you can bypass the 3rd gate on the 2/3 shift, and get stuck...or, it can allow you to accidentally select reverse when trying to find 4th. Once again, a stronger spring will help, but the real problem is the worn out reverse gate.
 
In a previous thread about TR3 shifters used with TR6 transmission, Randall made a couple of comments I was hoping to get background info on?
There is reference to a TR6 Service note-
"Instead, I'd be putting a spacer between the top of the ball and the curved piece on top of the big spring, to limit how far the ball can come up. I think it still has to come up some, but not as far as the slot allows. There's a service note about putting a length of heater hose in that location, which likely would solve your problem."

Also as I posted in pic above showing two TR6 shifters used, does anyone know when the change took place for the addition of the collar piece on top of the ball also Randall noted?
"As shown in your diagram, with the original TR6 shift lever, the top of the ball has a smaller section that sticks up through the spring, and limits how far the ball can come up. But, the OP has a TR3 shift lever in a TR6 top cover, and the TR3 shift lever is shaped differently in that area, which allows it to come up higher."
https://www.triumphexp.com/phile/6/40675/TR3.JPG
 
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