Finally getting (re) started on the Bugeye

[jholmgren]

Happy New Year!

We bought our Sprite about 18 months ago. I had the engine rebuilt (bit beyond my capabilities), got it home and started tearing it down from the front to really get into the restoration. Can't put a freshly rebuilt engine into a nasty engine bay! Unfortunately last November I tore both my (L+R) rotator cuffs, so I've been out of commission for the better part of the year.

Finally got the lift cleared and my arms working - so yesterday I put the Sprite up so I can resume stripping the engine bay. I'm sure I'll have a lot of questions as I go - I have a good bit of familiarity with Spitfires, but this is my first Sprite.

First question - body panels. I see repair panels available from Bugeye Guys - any other sources I should be considering? I'm US based, so overseas shipping of larger panels 'may' be cost prohibitive.

Thanks!
Jim

 

[JPSmit]

Moss has them - though it might still be worth enquiring in the UK especially as there is a favourable exchange rate.

That said, there have been fitment issues with some of these. It may be worth casting around for some rust free (or rust freeish) original parts. Arizona maybe?

looks great on the hoist

 

[drooartz]

Moss will be the big gun here in the USA. In the UK you can look at AH Spares (> Austin Healey Sprite & Frogeye Outer Body Panels | MK 1 to MK 4 <) they may have different sources for panels and *might* be a better fit. Either way you're likely in for some fettling to get everything to fit well.

 

[jholmgren]

Thanks for the suggestions guys - I will look into them, most of the panels I've fitted in the past were "ok" fitment, definitely needed some fettling to get straight.
Any opinions on Bugeye Guys as a source?

 

[drooartz]

I've used Bugeye Guy for a few things, been just fine. I would be surprised if most of their general parts are any different than what Moss has. They do seem to have some nicely curated parts, and a few things that do seem unique to them. I'll likely use them for some of the specialty bits, though probably Moss or British Parts Northwest for the general stuff as they're likely a bit cheaper.

 

[jholmgren]

Made some good progress today. Nothing fought me too badly, had to get the Dremel out for a couple of the P-clip screws, nothing too serious. Everything else came out with some PBlaster and elbow grease. I'll replace all the screws and bolts, but still bagged and tagged everything along with a bunch of pictures.

 

[jholmgren]

Good progress this weekend - interior is out and the dash is removed. Next session I'll start pulling the wiring back through the firewall and disconnect the hard lines.

 

[drooartz]

Good work. My Bugyeye is getting jealous of all this progress by other people.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Bugeye Guy sources Rubber Parts from McGregors in Canada. Things like Windshield Gaskets, lower Cowl Gaskets, Door Seals, the McGregor Rubber Products work and fit correctly. In my experience Moss Rubber Stuff mentioned above does not fit properly. Bugeye Guy has been a valuable source for some specialty parts. Mini U Bolts for Rear Springs for example that are otherwise unobtanium.

 

[jholmgren]

Bugeye Guy sources Rubber Parts from McGregors in Canada. Things like Windshield Gaskets, lower Cowl Gaskets, Door Seals, the McGregor Rubber Products work and fit correctly. In my experience Moss Rubber Stuff mentioned above does not fit properly. Bugeye Guy has been a valuable source for some specialty parts. Mini U Bolts for Rear Springs for example that are otherwise unobtanium.

Good information - thanks Jim!

 

[jholmgren]

Bit more progress today, nibbling away at it. Doors off, main harness out, wipers removed and a few other bits and pieces.

 

[jholmgren]

Continuing to nibble away - worked on the back end today. Got all the fixtures removed and the wiring harness out. Interior is completely stripped out and removed the steering column.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Continuing to nibble away - worked on the back end today. Got all the fixtures removed and the wiring harness out. Interior is completely stripped out and removed the steering column.

Make sure you save the spacers under the steering column. Rebuild will need those in place to keep steering column aligned.

 

[jholmgren]

Yep - I saved those shims - everything gets an in-situ picture, then bagged and labeled whether I intend to re-use it or not.

 

[jholmgren]

Been a couple of weeks, but spent an hour or two nibbling away on the Sprite today. Got the exhaust, gas tank and e-brake removed.

 

[BillyBud]

I'm fairly sure Steelcraft makes all the replacement body panels and fittings including those marked as "British Motor Heritage". I had a conversation with Bugeyeguy about some less that stellar spring boxes I purchased from him (out of square, twisted, missing welds) and he claimed this was the case, one company made them all, so don't expect better anywhere else. My experience so far with Moss, AH spares (UK), bugeyeguy and others is that you should shop for price because what you'll get is all the same. I have replaced my rockers, floor pans, spring boxes, interior beams/braces, A pillars, and removed and patch paneled numerous rusted panel areas. Sometimes the parts fit well, but usually not, and require machining and reworking to fit. Be sure to inspect whatever you get soon and compare to the old parts. Unless it is a complicated piece like an inner A pillar you will probably be better off making your own. And that rust? It's everywhere.

 

[jholmgren]

I'm fairly sure Steelcraft makes all the replacement body panels and fittings including those marked as "British Motor Heritage". I had a conversation with Bugeyeguy about some less that stellar spring boxes I purchased from him (out of square, twisted, missing welds) and he claimed this was the case, one company made them all, so don't expect better anywhere else. My experience so far with Moss, AH spares (UK), bugeyeguy and others is that you should shop for price because what you'll get is all the same. I have replaced my rockers, floor pans, spring boxes, interior beams/braces, A pillars, and removed and patch paneled numerous rusted panel areas. Sometimes the parts fit well, but usually not, and require machining and reworking to fit. Be sure to inspect whatever you get soon and compare to the old parts. Unless it is a complicated piece like an inner A pillar you will probably be better off making your own. And that rust? It's everywhere.

There are at least 2 suppliers of sheet metal. I am familiar with Steelcraft from my Spitfire restoration. However, I did see a video online comparing replacement floor pans from 2 different sources and they were distinctly different.

 

[BillyBud]

And sometimes what you get in your order doesn't even resemble the photo/diagram on the website. I got two different versions of spring box braces, but I think they were just and earlier and later version made by the same manufacturer. One with holes, one without. Neither one was anything close to what the original looked like. Some of this inventory floats around for a long time before being sold. Good luck.

PS, who is the other manufacturer besides Steelcraft?

 

[jholmgren]

And sometimes what you get in your order doesn't even resemble the photo/diagram on the website. I got two different versions of spring box braces, but I think they were just and earlier and later version made by the same manufacturer. One with holes, one without. Neither one was anything close to what the original looked like. Some of this inventory floats around for a long time before being sold. Good luck.

PS, who is the other manufacturer besides Steelcraft?

I had to figure out where I'd seen the comparison. Looks like a Canadian company: > VINTAGE SHEET METAL <

Saw it on YouTube:

 

[jholmgren]

Front end suspension tear-down is almost complete. Couldn't remove the springs via the "replace the spring plate bolts with longer ones" method because the two inboard bolts were totally frozen - on BOTH left and right sides. Heat, impact gun, penetrating fluid... nothing worked. Access is a little too limited to get a cutoff wheel in there to cut the bolts free.
I experimented with multiple options with no success. Stumbled upon a pair of mini-compressors designed for motorcycle springs - they fit the small springs on the Sprite perfectly. Had the spring out in 15 minutes with a very low "pucker factor".