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TR2/3/3A NO spark at points

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pisser

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I all need help ,My tr3 was running great I pulled it in the shop to tune it up New pionts condencer roter cap Set points NO spower to pionts . I have 12v at the wire to Distributor. If i take points off mounting plate with a paper under them not to touch mettle I have power to them as soon as I put the points back down on the plate NO power pionts open or closed All the wires are corect I am thinking it might be the distributor ground wire ? I have now cleaned the mounting plate wating for a new ground wire
 
It sounds like the points are grounding for some reason. Presumably mis-manufactured or not installed correctly. If you can post a couple pictures, we might be able to see why.
 
Look for fiber washer under points.
 
This is how the points should look...pay special attention to those insulating washers #'s 2, 6 and 7
TR6 ignition points 001.JPG
 
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It sounds like the points are grounding for some reason. Presumably mis-manufactured or not installed correctly. If you can post a couple pictures, we might be able to see why.
I have used three sets of new points all have the fiber washer I used three sets of Condencers, set points several times I am at a loss
 
You have a wire going to the coil, a wire coming out of the coil to the dist, and the wires in the dist that connect to the points and the condenser. The points are the ground for the power wire in the dist to the points. Disconnect the wire from the coil to the dist at the dist. Turn the ig switch on and check for voltage at the wire you took off the dist. . If it is there, the problem it is in the dist. If it is not there, move upstream with your meter until you find power. The fault is in the part of the circuit at whose end you first find there is no power. If there is power at the end of the wire that connects to the dist, the fault is in the dist. To check the dist circuits, disconnect the wires from where they connect to the points spring. Put your meter on ohms. Check to see if there is continuity from the wire that goes into the condenser to the dist plate. If there is, replace the condenser as it is shorted. If there is not, all is well with that device. Then put a piece of insulation between the two points contacts, so they are open. Again on ohms, put one lead on the points spring and one on the dist plate. If there is continuity (i.e., a reading), the points are bad in that there is a short from the spring to the base plate of the points OR you have the insulating washer system mis-installed, no matter what you think you see in your installation. Then take the insulation out from between the points, put one lead on the points spring and one on the dist base plate. You must get continuity or there is a problem with the points. The only thing I have not yet described is looking for power out of the short wire in the dist that provides power to the points. To test this wire, hook the wire from the coil to the dist back up. With the little power wire to the points disconnected from the points, turn on the ig and check for 12 volts coming out of that little wire. If not, there is a fault in that wire. If you will take each of these steps, you will almost certainly find your problem. If you think you have done any of them already, do them again. There is a slim possibility of some fault in another place, but until you eliminate common faults as suggested, we can't guess what those other faults might be. Badly grounded dist base plate is unlikely. To check that, with your meter on ohms, put one lead on the plate and one lead on a known good ground. Your meter should peg. If not, this ground is bad. In testing, make sure your leads touch only one thing each at a time and make sure the parts you are touching with the leads are touching nothing else.
Bob
 
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Got me into trouble on a Jag. Two days trying to start. Bottom isolator washer.
 
I'll add: a) what everyone says about messing up the order of the insulator on the points post is critical; b) be sure your coil wire is connected and that your low tension wire is not only is good shape, but is connected to the negative pole of the coil; and c) take a fourth look at all wires and what touches what inside that distributor.
 
check your wire connection at the points, my money is on you have the wire under the nut (1)
where it should be under the insulator (2)
If it is under the nut then it will be grounded out to the base plate.
 
Just had a thought: A number of years ago there was a batch of points circulating that were junk out-of-the-box. Can't recall the source but maybe trying a set from British Parts Northwest?
 
Put the old ne back in. They ran to the to the garage. If it won't run with them, then bigger problem.
 
check your wire connection at the points, my money is on you have the wire under the nut (1)
where it should be under the insulator (2)
If it is under the nut then it will be grounded out to the base plate.
Gosh you might be right as it is now I have the Condencer wire and pawer on top of the insilater and then nut Is that not correct? I am confused to where the Condencer wire goes
 
Gosh you might be right as it is now I have the Condencer wire and pawer on top of the insilater and then nut Is that not correct? I am confused to where the Condencer wire goes
Look at Ken's (Poolboy) post above - should clear it up for you. Those two wires should not make contact with any metal on the post or nut.
 
Gosh you might be right as it is now I have the Condencer wire and pawer on top of the insilater and then nut Is that not correct? I am confused to where the Condencer wire goes
condencer and wire from the coil both go under the insulator together, neither go under the nut,
Should look like this.
points.PNG


school of thought, get your phone out and take pictures before picking up any tools,
One little snap can save hours of agro..
 
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