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Adjustable Tie Rods

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kodpkd

kodpkd

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I wanted to find adjustable tie rods for my 61 BT7. I found a few different options that will work. My goal was to find a rod that is easily accessible at a reasonable price.
I know you can remove the steering wheel to straighten it but some people want the ability to adjust it from the rods.
I was able to change about 30* of steering wheel misalignment with only the left rod installed. $24

I found that the rods from a 1985 BMW 535i will work. I installed it on my car. Local parts stores and Amazon sell them in 3 different versions.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0066TE46A?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image

https://www.autozone.com/suspension...leeve&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false

I found a very nice set of rods customised by a AH parts specialist. A bit spendy.

> British Car Specialists - Stockton CA - Land Rover - Austin Healey Triumph MG Jaguar Mini Cooper Repair Maintenance Restoration <

Moss motors has the tie rod ends. They require a male adjusting sleeve that is 5/8" fine thread. I couldn't find an adjustable sleeve the correct length and thread size.

> BALL END SET, replacement <

I have one on order I think will work. It will be here in a few days. UPS is so slow. They are from a Mazda 1993 B2200. The adjusting rod is easy to find.

> 4x Front Inner & Outer Tie Rod Ends for Mazda B2000 1987 B2200 B2600 1987-1993 | eBay <
 
Interesting. I was just explaining a problem I'm having centering the tight spot in the steering box while trying to maintain the proper toe-in. The discussion focussed on camber and the side rods. This could be an easy solution. Are you planning to replace both side rod assemblies, or just one?
 
For now I am only doing the left side. I ordered the first set, then found the other one I wanted to try. I might send it back or just keep it.
 
IMG_20230110_122216985.jpg

Doing a test drive soon.
 
The originals are just a bit below 12 inches. That is what these are set to. I'm still working at getting the steering wheel straight. I have about 10* to go.
 
Have you determined where the tight spot is? You want that to be right in the middle when the wheels are pointing straight ahead and then you reposition the steering wheel.
 
I am not repositioning the steering wheel. I talked about that earlier in this thread. That's the main reason I got the adjustable tie rod. I understand about the tight spot, but it doesn't seem to make that much difference. I also know full travel of the wheel left and right will be about 20* off. Not that big of deal.
 
Here is a picture of the Mazda B2200 tie rods. They look like a good quality option. Two rods for $58, not bad.
 

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I am in Colorado. If someone wants to try these tie rods and can pick them up you are welcome. Same price as I paid. Otherwise I will be sending them back.
I am going to remove one end on the car and do a test fit of the taper. These new ends are .035 thousands bigger than originals.
 
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If the box is alined with the steering wheel, still may have to center wheel. As you move the tie rods to center wheel you may be moving box from center. The alignment in older British cars usually had weight put in drivers seat to align properly.
 
I understand. The final adjustment I made to move the steering wheel 20* was about 1/8" at the main center alignment bar. Not very much movement. The car felt and drove just fine.
I am using a single adjustable tie rod on the left side. If someone wanted to they could replace both left and right tie rods.
 
I did a test fit. It does sit up a little bit higher that the original, but it does snug up very tight. For a steering rod I think it would be good.
 
IMG_20230112_122251596.jpg

This is my front toe measurement technique. You can measure to within 1/32" The rear width is .6" wider on one side so have the line .6" away from the front spinner and just touching the rear spinner.
 
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