MGB MGB Starter Woes

[S.E.E.]

New to the Forum and Hello to Everyone.
1966 MG.B starter woe's.Did the search here and found excellent instuction's-1 "problem"-
it won't come out! Tip of my hat to the "1 hour jobber's"-I'm at 1/2 a day! Left side of
the spring is stuck against bell housing-right side of pinon drive assembly is against the flywheel-
no room to move laterally for the spring to clear the lip of the bell housing and the pinon drive
assembly will not retract or extend enough to clear the flywheel which would give me enough lateral
clearance before I hit the shaft for the spring to clear the bell housing.No angling seems to work-great for your
lower back, wrists,forearms,hands-a British Kettle Bell!
Also I've had a lovely crawl under and the is little room in the "Chunnel" to do much.Tempted to pull the distributor-?can't see though, if that would help and I do not want to "go there" if necessary.Have I "missed something?"
Steven

 

[DrEntropy]

Steven, going at it from the top, you ~should~ be able to "waggle" it around enough for it to almost drop out the bottom. If you want to remove the distributor, just scribe a mark on the collar of it and the block to index it for reinstalling.

The '66 should have lots of room for getting it out except for the oil filter. But IIRC by the time you're past the flywheel the back end of the starter should have enough room to tilt down and clear it.

 

[DrEntropy]

Alternately you could TRY crawling back into the "chunnel" and with the starter stuffed back in, try to remove the Bendix assembly by wedging the retaining spring with a screwdriver (at the hastily drawn arrow) and prying the curled part away from its groove. The Bendix will unload from the shaft. More "wiggle room" as you try getting it past ring gear, oil filter etc.

EDIT: And watch yer EYES!!

 

[S.E.E.]

The Dr. is in!
Thanks for the suggestion-
if "chunnel" will allow I will try.
One ?-is the spring "loaded"
Thanks,
Steven

 

[DrEntropy]

One ?-is the spring "loaded"

Not too much, if at all. My reference to eye protection was in relation to that Mutha of a retaining circlip.

 

[S.E.E.]

Deed is done!
Thank You Dr.
Spring removal was easy-not under too much tension
but eye protection a good idea.
To "future"enthusiasts-
distributor must come out-at least on mine (1966)
Now, to put the new one in...

 

[NutmegCT]

Thanks for the update. How'd you finally get it out? From your first post, sounded like there was no way!

 

[S.E.E.]

In post #3 Dr. Entropy suggested removing the spring -
this allowed me enough lateral wiggle room to get it out
before that there was no way!

 

[DrEntropy]

Deed is done!
Thank You Dr.
Spring removal was easy-not under too much tension
but eye protection a good idea.
To "future"enthusiasts-
distributor must come out-at least on mine (1966)
Now, to put the new one in...

You're very welcome Steven.

Been at this for a long time, learned long ago there's more'n one way to skin a cat!

 

[S.E.E.]

So as a follow up I decided to purchase the Gear Reduction starter from British Starters.The ring gear was a little
"chewed" and being that the new starter engages from the opposite side where the teeth are good I thought it best.Also-the initial misalignment that required me to remove the pinon and spring to extract the starter would have necessary to put it back in-very difficult in the "chunnel!".
Upon removing my spin-on adaptor I noticed there was no o-ring where the adaptor meets the block-is there supposed to be one?
Moss motors has a part #435-335 listed but in the diagram of the complete adaptor kit there is not o-ring pictured.

 

[DrEntropy]

Regarding the new starter, we have a "WOSP" branded one on this current MGB, same issue with the ring gear prompted the change. Works fine.

As for the o-ring at the oil filter, there is a recessed groove in the protrusion of the block where the cooler line adaptor seats, a square rubber o-ring should be in that groove. Hard to see and MANY folks have made the mistake of trying to put another one in there without realizing they've "doubled up" on it and created an oil leak. I'm betting there's one in there and age-hardened to the degree it appears to be missing. The canister type filters usually have the set of o-rings included with the packaging. Most parts stores will have the old-style filter with the rings included, or can have it in a day. A Hastings brand, part number LF172 should get a cross-reference to about all makers' numbers. A "dentist's pick" or other awl-like tool is best for getting the old one out of that groove, BTW.

 

[DrEntropy]

Just recalled... COVER that big connection on the starter with an insulating cap of some sort. The clips on the distributor can come in contact with it and regardless of the ignition switch being on or off, it will short out! That lead is carrying battery voltage at all times.

 

[S.E.E.]

Thank You for that-
In fact I noticed very little clearance between the hot cable and
post top to distributor when fastened.It had been in the back if my mind...

 

[DrEntropy]

If you use the version that has its own trigger wire and keeps the remote solenoid it isn't a big issue.