TR2/3/3A steel bushings for the lower Arms

[sp53]

I am finding the steel bushings for the lower Arms difficult to remove. Not sure what I did last time to remove them. I might have cut them into smaller pieces. Anyways any suggestions are very welcome.

Steve

 

[bobhustead]

You do not appear to have anything further to remove. The shoulder of the surface that bears the bushing is a good bit bigger than the threaded end. See if your new bushes go on what you have.
Bob

 

[sp53]

Could be, I will check with a new bushing to see if it fits onto the shaft---- the way the shaft is after I get some coffee. I just assumed the original is still on there. Here is another pic from a different angle, and i will wipe the sand away to see clearer.

steve

 

[charleyf]

The old bushing is still on there. It gets rusted in place. My efforts included trying heat. Use a propane torch to heat it and then use a pipe wrench. The last resort for me was to cut through the bushing with a dremel or some such tool and then use a pipe wrench and or chisel to get it to move. I was especially nervous about damaging the spindle it is mounted on when working on it. But then realized that any accidental nick or cut is covered by the new bushing. If you have removed and replaced this bushing before then it may not be necessary to replace it again. Especially if it does not show any wear. I figured that replacement every 30 to 40 years is a good thing.
Charley

 

[sp53]

You are reading my mind Charley. I tried the heat and if you look close those are vise grip marks, a pipe wrench would probably work better. Yeh I need to get some new nylon bushing and see how they fit. Heck the new ones might be inferior. Plus I could break something because these are not coming off without a fight, decisions……

steve

 

[bobhustead]

Charley probably has a better memory than I and something is remaining of the old bushing. I vote for a cutoff wheel on a Dremel.

Bob

 

[CJD]

Yes...dremel or a grinder...if you are good with the power equipment. Just to get a line to start the bushing to spread. Also a hacksaw, chisel or file if you prefer hand tools.

 

[Tybalt]

Once you get the old bushing sleeve off, hit that shoulder with a ScotchBrite pad to clean it up. I don't assemble anything like that anymore without using an anti-seize lubricant. For this application something like the Loctite LB 8009 or the zinc containing LB 8044 would be appropriate since it is steel on steel. The zinc adds an additional level of corrosion protection for steel assemblies. The nickle containing LB 771 and the copper containing LB 8008 are used for high temperature applications and selection is driven by similar/dissimilar metals considerations.

Products

www.henkel-adhesives.com

 

[bobhustead]

I assume your replacement bushes will contain steel and plastic components. Be careful where you apply anti-seize. Metal dust in anti-seize compounds will unduly wear the plastic components of the new bushings.
Bob

 

[LionelJrudd]

In those situations I use an angle grinder on the flat rather than a cutting disc. By grinding away the metal slowly, as you get through the outer layer it normally goes blue as the remaining metal gets thinner. When that happens, you can use a cold chisel to strike away from the thin area and the outer layer will split and rotate off the inner. In this way you haven't risked nicking the inner piece.

 

[sp53]

Excellent call Lionel, they came off, but not very friendly.

steve