TR2/3/3A Frame repair.

[sp53]

Thanks guys, yes I thought the welds were large also, but figured they should hold. Know it sounds like I can get by with a lot less.

I used .030 wire, but I do have some .023. Hopefully you think the smaller wirer would work better because I have a new roll of .023 and the .030 is about gone. Moreover, sounds like a 3/16 hole is preferred by you guys.

Should I fill in between the large tacks the whole length of the repair to make a seal?

With wood we caulk and paint, ha ha.

I doubled the one side with new metal in hopes of coming down through the top with a plug weld figuring the double thickness would help with holding and burning through. The other side has a double fold where the 2 C shapes fit together on the frame. I figured I could do the same there with a plug weld by coming down from the top onto the doubled over edge that is about a ½ wide.

I had planned to cover the whole bottom side of the frame with new metal strips I had cut at the supplier.

I took a picture of my older machine and where I have the settings to see what you think. The heat will go up one setting and I can slow the wire down some. Thanks for the input and all the ideas I am grateful for your time.

steve

 

[CJD]

A good line bead to tie all the tacks together is the strongest.

 

[sp53]

I will give that a try; filling it in with weld would look better also. Putting a strip the whole length of the bottom I think would look the best, but I have some fears about trapping water. The welds would be plugs welds or I could tack the sides or weld the whole side. If I do use plug welds, probably 2 inches??? apart and would not be water tight, but it would be a new bottom and if the old one rotted more, like it will; it should still last 10 to twenty years. I drive these cars all year round.

steve

 

[Frank Canale]

Hi Steve, The original frames were only spot welded so it does not need to be welded solid. Like John said maybe 2 seconds to fill the plug weld. Time is what causes heat. A hotter weld for a shorter time is cooler than a cold weld for a long time. The smaller wire may give you a little more time to fill the hole but it should be a quick weld that should require almost no movement to fill the hole. John is also right about aiming for the center of the base metal and if you are a little off adjust to fill the hole. A major help is a clean welding lens and if you are like most older welders a set of readers is helpful. A set of dollar store readers work fine. If you can't see the weld puddle you are going to struggle. As long as you do not poke a hole or blow a hole in the base metal the molten weld metal will fill the hole. Do some horizontal plug welds first as they will be easier to get the hang of it then go to the harder vertical plug welds. Frank

 

[CJD]

Good point Frank...I use 1.5 lenses for reading, but for welding I use 4.0 glasses, LOL. They magnify the puddle so I can see what's happening better. Getting old sucks...I really miss the days of having 20-12 vision.

 

[sp53]

I am glad you commented on actually seeing what is going on with the puddle because I have that problem. I have my neck so bent out of shape it hurts everywhere. I wear glasses all the time to see and stronger to read. I have a new hood and I will check it for clarity.

Will the .023 wire be fine for general welding?

How high would you say I should be above the weld, say a 1/16 or so while welding?

Does my idea of welding a whole new bottom on sound too ambitious?

Today I will do some practicing plug welding with the .023 wire on setting C of the machine and see if I can good penetration and a lower profile on the welds with new metal scraps.

thanks Steve

 

[CJD]

The .023 wire should work, but you will have to up the feed from what you used for the .030" wire. If it tends to stick in your work the feed is too fast. If it spatters, stutters and makes a mess then up the feed a bit.

If you feel it needs the bottom, then best to do it. Remember, once the "box" is opened, the section looses a lot of strength. Get it aligned and stable before starting to add the bottom back on, so you don't weld in a twist or bend. So, as you go, tack the ends, then the center. Then start tacking back and forth in the middle, until the tacks are at about 1-2" apart. The idea is to keep the heat to the minimum, to prevent warpage.

Then, when you are ready to run the line welds, start on one end and weld just 2-3". Allow it to cool and do the same at the other end. Work back and forth, allowing cooling in between, and check alignment while you are waiting. That will keep warpage to a minimum, and will prevent a long warp from developing. The most you will have to "fix" would only be a few inches to grind and re-weld if a bow develops. Weld small section quickly...and allow to cool.

1/16" is about right. You could probable up it to 1/8" if you have trouble fouling your tip too frequently.

 

[sp53]

I am getting closer to painting the frame. I appreciate all the help like Frank saying make sure you see well and John saying keep it simple and straight. Anyways my welding had gotten way better and fixing my machine when acting up and what type of wire and heat range and feed are becoming clearer. I actually have some confidence with my welding. I can see there is a lot to welding, a true art with a lot of grit. I am not great at. I really learned on that old frame; it is worth it to dive in and swim.

I purchased a flashlight kinda deal that goes on the handle and tip of the mig for like 35.00, and I waiting for that to get here. Will that light interfere with the auto dimming on the hood? Plus is getting the light worth it? One my biggest problems with welding is not seeing well and drifting around with a bead. Another problem is relaxing and letting my wrists and hands move on a straight line at the same speed.

Thanks for all the help Steve