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TR2/3/3A Door hinges

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Donald1107

Donald1107

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I see many posts on TR3 door hinges with frozen bolts. My problem is the opposite: hinge bolt turns freely but doesn’t tighten. I am guessing that the captured nut is not captured. Is there a way to access these nuts without removing the fender?

Thank you,
Don
 
It depends on the year. On a 1958 and some 59 there is an 8 inch hole in the passenger side kick panel for a speaker. I have in the past drill the driver side kick panel so I can have access. The hole on the driver side was more for inspecting the lower fender for road mud because I drive year round.



If the door is off, you can loosen the side and bottom of the fender and lift the fender out enough where the weather stripping is to possible get a nut on the bolt. Never tried it that way, but I bet it would work.

steve
 
It is the driver’s side upper hinge, so probably no speaker port. I’m considering some type of anchor bolt. The problem with it loose is only the outer end of the door scrapes the sill if you don’t lift when closing. I can live with this, but would like to correct it. Three of the four hinge bolts are tight.

Thanks for some ideas.
Don
 
Chek out Nutserts or similar.not sure of spelling.You need a tool,kinda like a pop riveter.When commericial type steel door hinges strip its a common way to repair.
Tom
 
You could drill a hole with a holesaw at the level of the offending nut big enough to allow the head of a 5/8 open end into the void. (The bigger the better if you can find a right size rubber plug like the ones used in the firewall.) Put the wrench over the cage, remove the bolt, chase the threads and replace. Cover with the rubber trim plug. Check the size wrench you need on an accessible cage. I am not totally sure of the size. You may have to use some leverage (screw driver, brake spoon) to close the cage frame enough to get the wrench on.
Bob
 
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These are very good suggestions, especially the port hole sawed in the side panel. Placed correctly, I should be able to stick a nut taped in a box wrench in front of the bolt. I might have to knock the nut cage off or out of the way. Putting a black grommet in the hole would not be conspicuous.

Thanks, guys.
Don
 
Well, I was going to suggest you come back if the slotted screw would not torque the connection enuf to move the threads. There are several ways you could center a drill bit on the head of the screw so as to start a series of holes that would remove the shank of the screw down to the nut. Then opening one side of the cage, you could remove the nut with a magnet and insert a new one. A bit tedious like gynecologic surgery, but doable. your plot would work, but redoing the cage system could have advantages.
Bob
 
Respectfully Don, I think yout best bet is to remove the mudguard. That way you can check why the nut is turning. Worst case, it may require replacing the cage. Otherwise you can crimp the existing cage with vice grips to better allow you to remove the screw with easy access to apply penetrating oil to the nut. This also avoids any unwanted additional holes in the body or potential damage from trying to work in confined spaces.
I am currently at the point where I am fitting guards and doors with all the associated fitting and removal while I fettle things. Had to remove several frozen bolts and replace several of the cages in the process. Sometimes the long road is the short path to an appropriate solution. All the best with your task. Lionel.
 
If you can get the bolts out of the sealer plate, Graham and Lionel's idea may very well be preferable. From looking at my car and the Moss diagram, it looks like the opening left after the sealer plate is out is narrow and the distance from the back of the wheel well to the cage nut is rather long. Certainly worth a try.
Bob
 
I was not so lucky with my car. Both sides had door strap damage as well as frozen hinge bolts that spun in the cages as well as having the hinges on the driver side welded in place. My only solution was to remove the A post to get access to remove the cage nuts and replace with new nuts that I fabricated to match the originals.(modern square nuts are smaller and spin in the original cages). A lot of work but now I can mount the hinges with no problems from the cage nuts. Good luck, Frank
 

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If you 3 out of 4 screws holding the door, the problem with the door dropping is probably the hinge pin. Moreover, if it is the driver side that side is used a lot more. New hinges are available and you could probably get by with just a top hinge, but getting both would probably be best. Fixing the pin might work also

steve
 
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