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TR2/3/3A Clutch and Brake Master Cylinder push rod stop bolts?

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My 59 would not have had stop bolts originally (perhaps yours didn't either) but I added some just to take out the last bit of slop in the pedal action. I set them to stop the pedal just after it had ended its useful return travel.

Stop Bolts.JPG
 
I was just reading about some issues with poorly made clutch and brake master cylinders for the TR3 in April. Where is the best place to buy new ones?
 
They are just 1/4" bolts with two nuts to lock them, if you have front disc brakes you don't need them.

Graham
 
If you still have the original master cylinders and they’re not destroyed, consider rebuilding them rather than replacing with “new,” especially given the quality of parts these days. Apple Hydraulics will rebuild them for a good price. > Apple Hydraulics <
 
Here’s the link to the new Apple Hydraulics site:

www.applehydraulicsonline.com

Automotive hydraulic specialists since 1973

The worlds largest rebuilder of lever action shock absorbers. Apple Hydraulics has served classic and vintage car enthusiasts since 1973 BUICK, FORD and MORE
www.applehydraulicsonline.com www.applehydraulicsonline.com

I inadvertently used the old one before.
 
Graham H said:
They are just 1/4" bolts with two nuts to lock them, if you have front disc brakes you don't need them.

Graham
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I have the disc brakes so that's good to know they are not needed. Do you think that if the MC's are lightly honed to clean them up, that installing rebuild kits would be effective rather than re sleeving the cylinders?
 
I generally hone and reuse the clutch master just because it often is fine and, although a failed clutch master is inconvenient, it isn't likely to kill you.

I would be more cautious with the brakes though close examination of the bores may point the way. Certainly use the best example for the brakes if you go the hone route on both.
 
I had both MC rebuilt by brake specialists and they recommended SS sleeves which have given excellent service over the last 9 years.

Graham
 
karls59tr said:
I have the disc brakes so that's good to know they are not needed. Do you think that if the MC's are lightly honed to clean them up, that installing rebuild kits would be effective rather than re sleeving the cylinders?
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It depends on whether or not they are pitted. Once you remove them, clean them up and look in the bores it should be obvious if they are pitted.

I honed my TR3A cylinders, but the pedals stuck and would not return. The honing made the bores too rough. I re-honed, but this time worked down from 220, 400, 600, and 1000 grit sand paper over the stones. The bores looked mirror smooth and then the pedals worked perfectly.
 
I polished mine, on John's advice in a prior post, with good results. I also went from DOT 5 back to DOT4 prior to polishing and that helped a lot but still a bit slow, particularly noticeable with the clutch.

It is curious though that I rebuilt and honed several master cylinders back in the day with no issues at all.

Tom
 
Maybe the hone stones are getting more coarse? I got the sandpaper idea from my old machinist. When he was honing performance cylinders for me he would actually work down from sandpaper to cork as the final abrasive. That was for chrome moly faced rings. Cast iron rings for our Triumphs take a much rougher bore to break in properly.
 
That could be. I got my current hones on-line, origin unknown, grit unknown. I never paid any attention to the grit but I see now that most are about 180-220 and a quick search shows Lisle has some 400s. Perhaps sandpaper after that.
Tom
 
TomMull said:
That could be. I got my current hones on-line, origin unknown, grit unknown. I never paid any attention to the grit but I see now that most are about 180-220 and a quick search shows Lisle has some 400s. Perhaps sandpaper after that.
Tom
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The ones I see are 220 grit. Is that too aggressive and would remove too much material? Would it be better to start out with 400 grit/ Who sells hones with 400 grit stones? Not familiar with Lisle?
 
Lisle. I don't know if 400 would make a difference or not. John went to 1000 grit, polishing not honing in my mind. I've never thought of different grits when honing brake cylinders until now. If it takes a fine polish to get them to release quickly, honing may not be the answer.
Tom
 
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