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TR2/3/3A new Robbins top

sp53

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I purchase a Robbins top for my tr3 and it has this folding flap piece that fits on the front. To me it looks like those little ball connectors on the windshield frame are not going to have enough room to click into place once I do the folding of the flap. What have others done? Should I go for it and it fits and I am over thinking this?

Thanks Steve
 
I had to enlarge/elongate the holes so the flap material will fit completely over the post,laying on the ws frame.
Still tight but works.
Tom
 
Check the fit when the top is quite warm and stretchable from sitting in the sun. I don't mentally picture the problem you are seeing.
Bob
 
+1 with Tom. The tenax goes on the top, the flap folds under, and then open the hole for the stud to go through the flap with plenty of extra size to prevent a bind.
 
It has to fit that way to keep the water out, I had to have a few goes at it and I found the Robbins top to be a good fit.

Graham
 
The attached image shows how the front flap fits, as Tom and John explained.
Robbins-top.jpg
 
When I had a Robbins top on my TR3 (current one is from JF Skinner) and figured out how the flap fit, I used a leather punch to make the flap hole fit over the whole tenax fitting. IIRC, it was a 1/2 or 5/8 inch hole. The thickness of the flap wouldn't interfere with the tenax socket fitting over the ball as a result.
 
Thanks Keith that should work. I figured I had to do something because there was too much fold on the flap for the size of that little ball.

steve
 
You're welcome, Steve. I had to see the drawing in order to understand how to make it fit. The PO had originally put the tenax fasteners on the flap and I knew something wasn't right! It's a "different" set-up, but it does work.
 
I start installing the snaps from the center, and was wondering if you guys start in the back or the front when installing the snaps. This top actually seems small compared to the last one I did---- which is fine, but the side windows seem a little wavy. I am thinking about starting center front then go to the back center to get the windows nicer. Any ideas are helpful.

steve
 
I followed John Durant's (CJD) thread:

 
I worked from the center out front and back. One stud at the back then one at the front, moving left and right to keep everything equally stretched. Try to work in the sun to keep the top soft and pliable makes it easier to stretch.

David
 
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