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Distributor Question

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CessnaTPA

CessnaTPA

Jedi Hopeful
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I have a 57 100-6 that isn't starting and while troubleshooting I noticed it had a random and weak spark. After taking the distributor off I pushed in the spring loaded coil pin and now it's stuck pushed in.
I can't get it to release to it's normal position, is there a way to fix this or do I need a new one? Also I see the plug wires have set screws but I'm not seeing how the coil wire is attached to the distributor.

And any other troubleshooting tips for what to check for not getting fire would be much appreciated.
 

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The attachment for the coil wire is underneath the pin if I remember correctly. You need to bang the cap on a hard surface and hopefully the pin plus spring will protrude far enough for you to pull it out.
 
You have to get the carbon pin to protrude far enough to contact the brass surface of the rotor or the car won't run. Suggest spraying some WD40 and banging per above. When it protrudes, pull it out along with the coil spring behind it and you'll see the set screw underneath that pokes through the high-tension wire from the coil. Sometimes the little coil spring needs to be stretched so the pin sticks out of the cap far enough.
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys, I couldn't get it out and buggered the carbon pin trying, so I'm just getting a new one I found on Ebay for $15, I was surprised how many parts I found available on there.
 
Those type of caps with pointed-screws retaining the high tension wires were made for a true copper conductor, and do really poorly__and connections fail really quickly__when used with modern carbon-core suppression wires.

My recommendation would be to get you the requisite amount of good ol' warh, some terminals/plug boots and redo the whole works.
 
Be sure you are getting quality cap on Ebay. There are crummy ones out there. Some even say LUCAS on them. I've seen new ones crack or crap out in less than 1000 miles. Get one from British Car Specialist or Jeff at Advanced Distributor. You don't want to be on the side of the road with a bad cap. I carry a spare in the boot.
 
Randy Forbes said:
Those type of caps with pointed-screws retaining the high tension wires were made for a true copper conductor, and do really poorly__and connections fail really quickly__when used with modern carbon-core suppression wires.

My recommendation would be to get you the requisite amount of good ol' warh, some terminals/plug boots and redo the whole works.
Click to expand...

I barley tugged on that coil wire and it came out of the distributor, it has the carbon core wires. It makes sense it's designed for a copper wire so the pointed screw has something to bite into. I'm going to look for a copper wire set, thanks for pointing that out.
I'm hoping the distributor I'm getting is good quality, here the one I ordered https://www.ebay.com/itm/371295925110?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
CessnaTPA said:
.... I'm going to look for a copper wire set, thanks for pointing that out.
I'm hoping the distributor I'm getting is good quality, here the one I ordered https://www.ebay.com/itm/371295925110?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Click to expand...

You can use Bumblebee wire https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=63692. Moss isn't the only source, but they have a nice color photo.

XKs Unlimited has been around a while. I can't vouch for how they are, or the quality of that cap, though.
 
I see Accel makes a copper wire set my local auto parts dealer has in stock. I've been searching everywhere and can't find if I need 7mm or 8mm, does anybody know?
 
tahoe healey said:
Be sure you are getting quality cap on Ebay. There are crummy ones out there. Some even say LUCAS on them. I've seen new ones crack or crap out in less than 1000 miles. Get one from British Car Specialist or Jeff at Advanced Distributor. You don't want to be on the side of the road with a bad cap. I carry a spare in the boot.
Click to expand...

Don't know if this has been fixed - one problem with the aftermarket Chinese-made caps is the pointed screws are sufficiently off-center so as to fail to puncture the wire in the center and also fail to grip enough of the wire. This may be what happened when the wire easily pulled out. A friend had one of these and you'd shove the coil wire in with all your might and the screw would barely poke the end of the wire.
So inspect your new cap carefully.
 
CessnaTPA said:
Thanks for the suggestions guys, I couldn't get it out and buggered the carbon pin trying, so I'm just getting a new one I found on Ebay for $15, I was surprised how many parts I found available on there.
Click to expand...

Just in case it is a bit shoddy you might Search the web for "Distributor Doctor"
 
steveg said:
Don't know if this has been fixed - one problem with the aftermarket Chinese-made caps is the pointed screws are sufficiently off-center so as to fail to puncture the wire in the center and also fail to grip enough of the wire. This may be what happened when the wire easily pulled out. A friend had one of these and you'd shove the coil wire in with all your might and the screw would barely poke the end of the wire.
So inspect your new cap carefully.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip, supposedly this cap is made in England so hopefully I don't have any issues.
I've discovered the original plugs were a champion UN12Y but I can't seem to find anyone local who has them, can someone give me a cross reference for the plug I need please, I'm having no luck searching the web. Also should I get a wire set with straight or 90 ends? Thanks
 
CessnaTPA said:
Thanks for the tip, supposedly this cap is made in England so hopefully I don't have any issues.
I've discovered the original plugs were a champion UN12Y but I can't seem to find anyone local who has them, can someone give me a cross reference for the plug I need please, I'm having no luck searching the web. Also should I get a wire set with straight or 90 ends? Thanks
Click to expand...

Ask for Champion RN12YC. The 'R' is for resistance and the 'C' is for copper; they work well with copper core wires (I've used them on my BJ8 for many years with no problems). They have, I think, 15Kohms resistance which helps with noise suppression.

I bought some on sale at Pep Boys a few years back for $1/per; Rock Auto has 'em: https://tinyurl.com/ourzdvv
 
steveg said:
Don't know if this has been fixed - one problem with the aftermarket Chinese-made caps is the pointed screws are sufficiently off-center so as to fail to puncture the wire in the center and also fail to grip enough of the wire. This may be what happened when the wire easily pulled out. A friend had one of these and you'd shove the coil wire in with all your might and the screw would barely poke the end of the wire.
So inspect your new cap carefully.
Click to expand...
I got my cap today, it's not Chinese, it's made in Taiwan, oh well you get what you pay for.
 
For sparkplugs, NGK BP6ES are my first choice. If the Champions get fouled or sooted up, they don't seem to be able to clean themselves as readily as the NGKs.

Also, I see no advantage__in our stock or lightly (fast road) modified engines__to using any of the precious metal type plugs (Iridium, or any other metal of the month).
 
What type of motor oil is recommended for the 100-6 and quantity? I did find I should add zddp.
I currently have the ngk plugs and I bet they have less than 1000 miles on them, I think I'll just check the gaps.

I hate asking these basic questions but I have no manuel ( got one ordered) and I can't seem to find consistent answers online or searching this forum.
 
CessnaTPA said:
What type of motor oil is recommended for the 100-6 and quantity? I did find I should add zddp.
I currently have the ngk plugs and I bet they have less than 1000 miles on them, I think I'll just check the gaps.

I hate asking these basic questions but I have no manuel ( got one ordered) and I can't seem to find consistent answers online or searching this forum.
Click to expand...
That's what happens anytime more than one (>1) of us answers... ;)

I've been a fan of Castrol products since 1973, and won't change until they're no longer available. I've had plenty of opportunities to overhaul engines run on a steady diet of Castrol GTX 10w/40 (MGBs) and 20w/50 (Healey) and I am always impressed with how clean the inside of the engine stays. None of these rebuilds were the result of an oil related failure, some were just high mileage or torn down to inspect before another season of sanctioned events.

Doesn't hurt that BMW's recommended oils were for decades Castrol, though just a few months ago, they switched to Shell (not sure how I feel about that since my 2001 ///M Rdstr requires 10w/60 Castrol, only available at BMW dealerships__so I cleaned out the local dealer's shelves of what they had left).
 
Randy Forbes said:
That's what happens anytime more than one (>1) of us answers... ;)

///M Rdstr requires 10w/60 Castrol, only available at BMW dealerships__so I cleaned out the local dealer's shelves of what they had left).
Click to expand...

Lots of Castrol 10w/60w available on E-bay . It what Aston Lists for my V8 Vantage .
 
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