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Front tilt bonnet latch

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Gerard said:
hahaha... Thanks Bill, but I'm already losing enough money on the specialized parts I make that many here would rather make/copy themselves or buy something inferior for a little less. Anybody who's done any manufacturing will understand what I mean. Unless you build mass quantities in China, there's no money to be made with quality American made stuff.
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I hear you. I know full well the difficulty having developed PCs in the early years and going through the evolution to manufacturing in Asia.

But those pics are great and give me a really good idea on how to do this on my own if necessary. I'll still buy the front hinge from you! Just working to get my Bugeye project past the strip-down phase right now.
 
Hot Wings said:
Been there, done that, and have been thinking about trying it again (some fools just never seem to learn :friendly_wink:smile:. Sometimes educating the customer is the hardest part of the process. The difference in quality/finish of your hinges compared to the eBay offerings is obvious. My brain can't understand why anyone would buy the eBay parts, but then marketing has never been one of my strong points.
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Thanks for the endorsement. In spite of the evident quality shown in the pix, I've never had anyone that wasn't blown away by how they are even better in person. By the way, in addition to your comment regarding overall quality, that hinge kit is supplied with grade 2 hardware (mine is supplied with grade 5 & 8), and my kit is only around $10 more. He's also lifted it all, including the instructions and pix from my web site.
 
ncpi said:
I hear you. I know full well the difficulty having developed PCs in the early years and going through the evolution to manufacturing in Asia.

But those pics are great and give me a really good idea on how to do this on my own if necessary. I'll still buy the front hinge from you! Just working to get my Bugeye project past the strip-down phase right now.
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Thanks Bill. I hope your project doesn't end up on the back burner for years like mine has.
 
My car came with what looks like the eBay tilt kit and it looks like it was cut out with a hand held jigsaw by a chimp!
Rut
 
Hey Rut I resent that. At least the one I built for Bugsy I used a file and a drill press.
 
Jim,
Yours sounds nicer than mine...make that drunk chimp!
Rut
 
I used to have the forward tilt bonnet; it has it good points for access to the engine compartment. My decision to change back was purely for the look of originality. When visiting a car show I just enjoy looking around for that fabulous front clip folded back toward the windshield. I've done quit many modification to the car this time but I did them discreetly for the purpose of the prudence of the marque.
 
Gerard said:
Thanks Bill. I hope your project doesn't end up on the back burner for years like mine has.
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Hopefully not, at least I am retired. But since I have 2 homes, I will probably only get to work on it about 1/2 the year. The workshop I am currently in is still getting set up so my progress is probably going to be a bit slow in the short term. My plan is to have it ready to media blast when the shop is ready, hopefully within a month.

The good news is my MGTD is at my other home, so I get to drive and play when I am there. Life is good :smile:

Bill
 
Here's what I've found so far...a cable release pin latch to mount in the A pillar and fit into a hole in the rear edge of the bonnet. One handle controls 2 cable/latches and can be run thru the cowl space. Coupled with the rubbers on either side it should be located very solidly and if necessary I can add a spring on either top side to 'pop' it open when the latches are pulled. Thoughts?
Rut
https://www.gcontrols.com/products/.../Cable_Latch_Systems_Glassmaster_Controls.pdf
 
Rut said:
Here's what I've found so far...a cable release pin latch to mount in the A pillar and fit into a hole in the rear edge of the bonnet. One handle controls 2 cable/latches and can be run thru the cowl space. Coupled with the rubbers on either side it should be located very solidly and if necessary I can add a spring on either top side to 'pop' it open when the latches are pulled. Thoughts?
Rut
https://www.gcontrols.com/products/.../Cable_Latch_Systems_Glassmaster_Controls.pdf
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Wow...this is even more like I was thinking. It would be really nice if you could pull, then turn and lock that handle so the pins stay in the retracted position. Then you wouldn't need the spring to pop the hood open.
 
How Much?
 
Jim,
About $75 list price and I'm trying to locate a discounted supplier.
Rut
 
Some sort of spring will definitely be needed so the bonnet pops up and out of the latch. This is definitely a slick setup.
 
Ok, stumbled a cross another possible solution. I plan on using locating pins on the rear bottom edge of my bonnet and I'm looking at pins with the spring loaded ball. This would locate the bonnet and offer some resistance to opening without having to fabricate a separate latch. I want to place the pin pointing down into a plastic/delrin socket. Input needed!
Thanks, Rut
 
Rut said:
Input needed!
Thanks, Rut
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Earlier in the thread someone suggested using magnets is some fashion.

Considering that the only time the bonnet really needs to be securely latches is while in motion maybe a small electromagnet operated by an oil pressure switch could be used to move a latch into place? The little coil in a standard Bosch relay would be enough to move a carefully though out mechanism that could hold the hood down. It wouldn't take too much current and the failure mode would be in the open position.
 
You made me think about another way! Push/pull solenoids in 12 volt are cheap and easy, could be mounted on the inside firewall and secure a bracket mounted to the inside of the bonnet. They have about 4 to 5 pounds of force which would be more than enough.
Thanks, Rut
 
The cable latch is really trick but the receiver for the pin is 2 3/4" long and the cable actuator is 2.5" won't fit in a BE Bonnet.
 
I keep trying to think of a way to make a latch only uses the original hinge points. Thinking of a lever through the hinge that turns over center to lock. sketching it out in my head, I'm not sure it will work, but there must be a way...

maybe a torsion bar through the hinge points with a latch or pin under the dash some place.
 
Take a look at the Speedwell Engineering site for their solution. Simple but alignment may be an issue.
 
I have been looking at modifying a TR6 hood latch and pin, just like the set up in the photos posted by Gerard on page 2 of this thread. Quite frankly, that is what would have been done at the factory if Bugeyes originally had forward hinged bonnets. That, or Spitfire style outside latches. The TR6 hardware can be modified, as well as include the safety release to guard against a broken cable. The Speedwell solution is interesting, but is still a less-than-elegant solution.
 
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