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BT7 Handling

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dvu101

Jedi Hopeful
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What are some things I can do to make my Healey handle a little better?
i kind of want to start with some less expensive items as i am currently
Funding two colleges.
I have 185 tires on 72 spoke wires.

Thanks. Scott
 
Change your front springs to BJ8s. The spring rate of a MKI BT7 is 225 lbs per inch. A MKII BT7 coil spring is 330 lbs. BJ8 coil springs are 385 lbs per inch.

I checked with Moss a few months ago regarding the wire size of the front springs they sell. It's pretty close to the BJ8 specs.
 
Use offset upper trunnion bushings to remove some of the positive camber from the front wheels (this greatly improved turn-in on my BJ8). Second the recommendation on the Addco swaybar--be sure to upgrade the links as well. With bigger tires--esp. 185/70--replacing the upper trunnion bushings with torrington bearings will make turning a bit easier.
 
Bob Hughes said:
What about improving the back end, mine leaps about if you go over anything thicker than a cigarette paper.

:cheers:

Bob
Click to expand...

One of the best improvements is the Putzke Bilstein kit. Don't know if that's available in the UK. I have SPAX shocks and friends' Bilsteins seem to give a better ride and less busy-ness with the rear end.
 
Bob_Spidell said:
Use offset upper trunnion bushings to remove some of the positive camber from the front wheels (this greatly improved turn-in on my BJ8). Second the recommendation on the Addco swaybar--be sure to upgrade the links as well. With bigger tires--esp. 185/70--replacing the upper trunnion bushings with torrington bearings will make turning a bit easier.
Click to expand...

The inexpensive offset nylon or rubber bushings are probably the best. I bought the Cape International bronze bushings and had to do quite a bit of machining to get them to fit. IMHO they're expensive overkill compared to the others.
 
The suggestions provided by the group are extremely valid, however, I would caution that you first evaluate your frame and make sure that it is strong enough to handle the additional stress that may be applied by the changes. Since the Healey’s frame was created from 15 gauge box sheet metal and over the years tends to rust and/or corrode from the inside, it is not easy to determine what affect the added stress of these attachments will have on your frame.

Scott, do you know the condition of your frame?

Are there any frame-reinforcements modifications suggested for the modifications?

To the group:
Is there a way of determining the condition of an original iframe in-place?

Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
For the rear end, I put polyurethane bushings on the Panhard rod ends. That will help keep the rear geometry in line. they are the same ones as used for the front anti-sway bar.

I still have the lever shocks front & rear and they work fine.

There are standard reinforcements to the front, lower suspension points and the engine mounts. A photo is on Kilmartin's site: https://www.kas-kilmartin.com.au/Kas%20Diplay%20Chassis.jpg. One can also reinforce the front, rear spring mounts.
 
Thanks guys. These are some good suggestions.

I think my frame is good. Except for the tip where the bumper bolts in I have not found any problems
 
In terms of getting a sense of measuring an existing internal corroding condition of a frame (and this may "sound" corny), but I have sometimes tapped various parts of the frame with a spoon (wood or metal) and have noticed an appreciable difference, from a "ping" to a dull (or varying) sounding note. Of course, this only offers a clue and by no means measures specific physical moment or shear forces in the existing steel.
 
Bob Hughes said:
What about improving the back end, mine leaps about if you go over anything thicker than a cigarette paper.

:cheers:

Bob
Click to expand...

My BJ7 is quite well behaved at the back with new standard springs and uprated standard shocks. It tops out rather easily, but is otherwise okay. The front is a little wayward with new shocks and standard springs, so it's easy to see why the BJ8 had stronger ones and I may fit them.

There isn't much else you can do to these old trucks that doesn't make them worse IMO. For racing on relatively smooth surfaces, you can stiffen everything and go faster as a result, but on bumpy, poorly made up Brit roads they bash and crash enough already. They need more travel and better damping, which isn't easy to achieve.
 
What about putting on a rear sway bar?
 
I have one
and this winter I will put it on the car -
all the additional welding points on rear axle must be welded before
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/DrHv3724Dm6Zpf_KesoPJdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/une7xLgJOw3lKKcERdWmx9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/sS9qYH1P_dYlUA32L8LopdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/CBklyxEgL-rfcbmr-PEMydMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/cI40-kk1L0qW5SNMVa0UGtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/QUiBNkLcutzByWdgKutEXNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink

NOTE: the rear sway bar are incompatible with the standard exhaust long pipes of 100/6
This is the reason for which I haven't it on the car now- this winter I make also the side exhaust conversion
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/B1yEvq5tQWilBM_6tMP5xdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
all is ready, I hope that this improve the car road quality, from very good to excellent
Cheers
 
dvu101 said:
Thanks guys. These are some good suggestions.

I think my frame is good. Except for the tip where the bumper bolts in I have not found any problems
Click to expand...

Your not looking hard enough :uncomfortableness:

I thought the same thing about my 64 .I figured all it needed was new floors and outriggers and some other minor repairs . I hadnt driven it for a long time as I had been driving my newly restored 67 and working the bugs out of it .
I decided to take the 64 out for one last spin before I took it off the road for restoration (luv the sound of the side exhaust)....I digress... It scared the living $&#t out of me wandering and snaking and dipping and diving compared to the 67 .
Well after taking the whole car apart and sending the superstructure to the body shop for repairs heres a couple of pics of what looked like a serviceable frame after sandblasting.
Thats not swiss cheese its the main drivers side frame rail
Nothing hides from the sandblaster just goes to show you visually it may look ok but ???
I havent added the pics of cracked engine and suspension mounts etc etc ..
Now The 64 is well on its way to being a rolling chassis but I still wouldnt consider upgrading any of the bushings to Polyurethane . Theres a valid reason they used rubber ....to compensate for a weak frame ...adding stronger stiffer bushings will just transfer all the bumps and bangs to an already suspect frame .Remember these cars are 50+ years old ,when they were built the technology they built them with was already 20yrs out of date and dont forget that lump of an engine started its life in a farm tractor and we all know how they handle .No amount of money will make them handle like a modern sports car , its a Healey thats the way it is .
The only upgrades I have done as far as suspension on my 64 and 67 are the heavy duty shock valves (apple Hydraulics).
Without significant modifications to strengthen the frame you are wasting your money and time and will probably make the car worse and possibly unsafe . JMHO :encouragement::encouragement:
 
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