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TR6 74 TR6 headscratcher

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EWD

EWD

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Morning folks! Greetings from Virginia.
Having an unusual situation which has not happened previously.. My engine has started cutting off while driving. In both instances, it has happened after it is completely warmed up and has ben run awhile. Suddenly it just quits, the ignition light come on, and after a couple of clutch pops, it comes back to life. It happened yesterday, and after driving home, I let it sit for an hour or so, and it started right up and idled smoothly. Strangely, last week, after a run and it it had sat for an hour, it would not start. It kept firing, but it felt like it was not getting gas. After a few tries, it finally started.
Gas filter replaced and fuel pump rebuilt about 2000 miles ago (lever suction appears good); gas is flowing ok from the tank; new electronic ignition and coil 2000 miles ago. My first thought is the fuel pump, but it seems really odd, that the situation is sporadic. But, as mentioned, it seems to happen after a warm up and drive.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Will
 
Just to clarify, is the engine completely shutting down all at once, like someone cutting off the ignition? or is it sputtering more and more until it's stopped?
 
Just shuts down. Suddenly no power and the ignition light comes on. I pop the clutch a couple of times while slowing down and it restarts.
 
All wiring checked. While checking, also metered the alternator (original) and it reads 12.7 (14 across the battery) with the engine running. Just did this and the car started up smoothly.

It would seem that if it was fuel related, that there would be some sputtering. When the failures occurred, my foot was off the gas and I was going 25-30. Carbs have been rebuilt and have been working fine. In fact, everything has for the last 2000 miles.
Thx for the quick response.
 
On my ‘74, the ignition switch did give me intermittent problems, though I don’t remember sudden shutoffs. As I recall the back half of the switch can be removed; a very tiny Phillips holds it together. I assume you have the seatbelt interlock jumpered.
 
mrv8q said:
On my ‘74, the ignition switch did give me intermittent problems, though I don’t remember sudden shutoffs. As I recall the back half of the switch can be removed; a very tiny Phillips holds it together. I assume you have the seatbelt interlock jumpered.
Click to expand...
Yes don't forget the seatbelt interlock and in particular its relay. mounted by the fuse block. I have had this experience and the relay connections were the trouble. had me stumped for quite some time.
 
Good thought Charley. It’s a new coil, installed same time as the electronic ignition. Guess it could be bad. Reading 1.7 across the contacts while idling.
mrv8q - yep on the interlock and relay.
Thx
 
Will - same issue and same car. I’ve worked through the entire ignition and starting systems. Mine then went completely dead. Wouldn’t start at all. I finally swapped a black for red rotor and it came back to life immediately. Crazy. I thought everything was good, but 500 miles later, I’m back to the same problem. Please post if you make progress.
 
Awhile back there was an issue with some of the aftermarket black rotors grounding out against the rivet in the rotor itself. This was with the TR3 but maybe the TR6 ones as well? I had an issue once on my TR3 where I could drive a few blocks then the engine would die....let the car sit for awhile and it would start and run for awhile then it would die again. It turned out to be an aftermarket distributor cap that did not fit right and over time the carbon pin in the cap got ground down against the rotor top causing the ignition to work intermittenly
 
Ken - Petronix. Ignition and coil. 2k miles ago. Moss
Karl - New distrib cap from Moss.
Mad Dog - new ignition switch (Moss). Checked leads. When engine dies, ignition light come on.

Situation happens at slow speeds ~ 25-30, not accelerating so RPM’s are way down.
Wonder if carb fuel bowls (dual Strombergs) are just running out - but, as mentioned, no sputtering.
Original pump rebuilt 2K miles ago.
Considering installing an electric solid state fuel pump (Facet). Can get it from NAPA. Looks like the same from Moss.
Thoughts / Questions: Pump says it can be used in conjunction with the current manual pump:
1. If so, I could install it on the wheel well fender and run the the tank line to the “in” and the “out” to the existing fuel pump. If this will work, it would certainly simplify the install and negate the need to plug the hole in the block. The pump would be slightly above the tank. Is this a problem? PSI is 1.5-4; which appears to be in line.
2. The new pump comes with its own filter. Is it ok to have 2 filters on the line?
3. I would wire it to the fuse block with a cut off switch.
It would be a $100 gamble.

Thx for everyone’s noodling.
Will
 
EWD said:
Ken - Petronix. Ignition and coil. 2k miles ago. Moss
Karl - New distrib cap from Moss.
Mad Dog - new ignition switch (Moss). Checked leads. When engine dies, ignition light come on.

Situation happens at slow speeds ~ 25-30, not accelerating so RPM’s are way down.
Wonder if carb fuel bowls (dual Strombergs) are just running out - but, as mentioned, no sputtering.
Original pump rebuilt 2K miles ago.
Considering installing an electric solid state fuel pump (Facet). Can get it from NAPA. Looks like the same from Moss.
Thoughts / Questions: Pump says it can be used in conjunction with the current manual pump:
1. If so, I could install it on the wheel well fender and run the the tank line to the “in” and the “out” to the existing fuel pump. If this will work, it would certainly simplify the install and negate the need to plug the hole in the block. The pump would be slightly above the tank. Is this a problem? PSI is 1.5-4; which appears to be in line.
2. The new pump comes with its own filter. Is it ok to have 2 filters on the line?
3. I would wire it to the fuse block with a cut off switch.
It would be a $100 gamble.

Thx for everyone’s noodling.
Will
Click to expand...
I once read about a car show in which 8 out of 10 TR6's that were there had switched over the problematic Strombergs to SU's. I'll probably get flack for this but just saying. Have you had previous problems with your Strombergs?
 
Has anyone run an electric fuel pump (Facet) in conjunction with the original mechanical pump?
Thx
Will
 
Just a left field thought , if your car has the power cables attached to the POS battery lead.
Corrosion can be an issue here. These later cars are prone to fires due to this ridiculous/unsafe
arrangement. My solution, on cars I have restored, is to cleanup all connections and add
a second fuse block to power the brown wires separately. These un-fused power wires are the cause of several dash fires
I have seen over the years.(ounce of prevention)
Mad dog
 
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