• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

100-4 restoration advice

Share this page

P

Portlandia

Freshman Member
Offline
Greetings, I'm new to this forum and am excited to hear your opinion.

I have a 1955 (I believe) BN1 with serial number BN1L227460. I bought the car out of a barn here in Oregon in the late 1990s, and it has been in my garage since. I'm working towards a non-concourse restoration (with an eye on originality) and am seeking advice regarding any of the following:

Engine rebuild: any suggested modifications 'while I'm in there'? Block is at the machinist currently.

Recommended vendors? Moss Motors?

Conversion to 100M specification - does this make financial sense (i.e. are non-factory 100M conversions worth the expense?)

Recommended updates/modifications to make the 100-4 more capable in modern traffic (not freeway driving)?

Repaint to a different-than-original color (but selecting an alternative factory color), is this a terrible idea?

Suspension recommendations?

Transmission/axle/rear-end recommendations?

Common pitfalls, parts that are difficult to source?

Thank you in advance for any thoughts.
Cheers,
Mike
 
Lots of good questions there, and there are many possible answers to each of the questions.

I am one of those who prefers originality, at least with Healeys. If a Healey can't keep up with a modern sports car, that's fine with me.

Regarding buying parts, more than one vendor may sell the same parts. In some cases reproduction parts may lack the quality of the original parts, but what choice does one have? Find a vendor who will stand behind what they sell; not all will.

You don't say what the original color of the car was. Unless it is a color that you don't like, sticking to the original color usually is the best plan.

That said, it's your car so do what makes you happy.
 
My Healey BN1 is mostly original. I would consider upgrading to disk brakes at some point, using BT7 or later parts. The skinny drum brakes are definitely marginal. I would not add 100M mechanical bits, the increase in power is rather mild for the effort involved. I don't think it would add much value to your car. I did buy a Welsh aluminum head a few years back because the stock cast iron heads tend to crack (mine has several small cracks though it still works OK). I have not installed the Welsh head but I keep it in reserve, I figured they won't make these forever.

I find the stock BN1 to be rather lively and quite capable of dealing with modern traffic. I love driving it, but it is really much too old and uncomfortable to use as a daily driver. But there are lots of Healey driving events around the country keep your car on the road.

Over time I have changed all the wire wheels and hubs. If I restored another one I would do this first. The splines are dangerously inadequate once they are worn and yours probably are. Having hubs slip while braking is dangerous and today decent repros are available. They weren't back in the 70's when I got my car.

I changed my car's color from OEW to ice blue, never regretted that. It's hard to change color correctly (I didn't), all the inner fenders, floor and frame should be body color.

I appreciate dealing with Moss motors. They are not always the cheapest, but they are very knowledgeable and responsive. But I have also gotten good service from the other vendors out there.

Good luck with your BN1, my personal favorite Healey -- though I love them all!
 
So many 100's seem to have the M "mods" that it is almost a rare sight anymore to see a stock car. I would concur that original color would be my preference.
 
Here's some things you might want to consider:

1. A stock car will almost invariably be worth more than a non-stock one.

2. Although tasteful period modifications may increase the value of the car, you will be unlikely to recover what it cost you to make the modifications.

3. If you're planning on keeping the car only for a few years and then selling, I'd keep it as stock as possible or with easily reversible mods.


4. How long are you planning to keep the car? If you're planning on keeping it for a long period of time, you may want to consider more modifications that will make you happy over the years and just be content to amortize any loss in value over the period as the price you pay for enjoying your car.

5. Color - I think the original factory color means more to the concourse folks who like to see that along with matching numbers throughout. I've never been able to quite pin down what that means in terms of dollars, but it's something. OTOH, why live with something over a number of years that you absolutely despise every time you walk past it in the garage? But if you decide on a color change, pick a factory color. Almost all buyers prefer a factory color, you know all the trim materials will co-ordinate correctly and there's something for just about everyone's taste in the stock palette. Kurt Tanner seems to be making some good money painting cars Golden Metallic Beige that didn't come that way, so I wouldn't be too concerned. And IIRC, I don't think a color change to a factory color is a points deduction in concourse (might want to check that, though).

6. Disc brakes, alloy head and rear main seal seem like very sensible upgrades. But after that, trying to get additional performance is going to get expensive quickly and at the end, a lot of Camrys will still be quicker. LeMans mods won't hurt the value any, and if you want the experience of what it was like to drive a "hot" sports car in the '50s it might be worth the expense to you. But don't expect blistering acceleration as a result.

7. Parts purchase - If you can find new old stock or repairable original stuff on eBay it's often better than the repro stuff. But that's getting hard to do. Moss is usually ok for most run of the mill stuff. I like to use Jeff Zorn at LBCarCo.com. he's a Moss distributor and provides a discount from the Moss price. His shipping usually takes a little bit longer than Moss, but if you can wait a couple of extra days the savings is worth it. Another important thing with a big restoration is to wait for sales. Most of the providers run regular sales that discount 20-30% so with some planning ahead you can buy your big purchases during a sales period. Moss usually runs the sales during the same period every year so I bet you could call them and ask when the sales periods will be. They also have a customer loyalty discount https://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/Pages/loyaltypage.html and you may want to do some calculations to see whether this is as good as their periodic sales.

That's not to say Moss is always the best choice. You may find that interior kits from other vendors are of better quality or more accurate, but cost more. Repro chrome parts are often not up to the standards of the originals and it's often better to find a good used part and have it rechromed if you are looking for a quality restoration. Most importantly, ask questions on the forum about parts you plan to buy, lots of experience here and people can warn you away from the stuff that is substandard.
 
When I restored my BN2 it came out mostly stock except for the Ford valves and seats in the head for unleaded fuel, a spin on oil filter with a thermo bypass valve and external front mounted oil cooler. My attitude is that originality is nice but for me it is mostly to maintain the "flavor" of this kind of driving. That being said I am very much in favor of improvements that make the drive less bothersome (broken spokes , dealing with tire tubes, lack of stellar braking action etc) or make it safer so I have put mini lite style tubeless wheels on but with splined hubs so I can still justify carrying a lead hammer around and smile when I look at real knock-offs, front disc brakes for obvious reasons and a soon to be added alternator because although my generator has been flawless I know that will not always be so. The voltage regulator will stay for appearances but not be functional. I also put two smallish 12v batteries in parallel in fitted racks in place of the originals so that I can buy a battery at any auto-parts store in the country if I need one. A garlock type rear crankshaft seal is a must if you are at the machine shop stage although they are easy to put in yourself (aside from machining a cutout in the rear plate ). K & N style intake filters are probably nice if you don't feel like maintaining the original style with cleaning and oiling (I live in a dusty place so I used to cringe every time I drove through a brown cloud). I think all of the lighting mods that various folks on this site have come up with in particular for the exterior lighting (third brake lights and all LED mods) are worth while and they are on my list. I didn't go with engine mods other than the valves because money WAS an issue back when I was doing the restoration. I'd love to have an aluminum head just to save the weight. For my road purposes the acceleration and speeds are plenty so I never have felt the urge to boost engine performance. I love the Laycock DeNormanville overdrive but if I didn't have a transmission and needed one I wouldn't hesitate to put a 5 speed in, I'd just miss going through the motions of operating the OD. Spend plenty of effort sealing and insulating your firewall and floor; I wish I'd done a bit more of that.
I chose to paint mine a color called Mineral Grey (Chrysler) when I read that there were a handful of BN2s that were painted "Gunmetal Grey" at the factory. Mine is a metallic grey/silver which of course is not an original color but I like it. My feeling is you should paint it a color that will always please you and if showing your car pleases you, an original color is best. I was going to go all Healey blue on it until I saw a Dodge pick-up in mineral grey and thought it would be perfect for me.
 
G'day Mike,
the advice you have already received is good (wouldn't expect anything else on this forum). My '54 BN1 is stock, down to positive earth generator & drum brakes, but I would like disc brakes. You tend to get used to the brake performance of your daily drive! I do have a spin on filter and I use paper air filter elements. I have also fitted 60 spoke Dunlop wheels. As has been said the original colour is desirable but if you choose to use a non-standard colour try to be conservative.
Happy restoring!
Alwyn
 
A common pitfall is the temptation to change or replace any of the original hardware ( bolts , nuts , washers , screws, etc.) with new ,shiny , pieces from the local hardware store. Once gone , very hard to replace. The rest of the parts are pretty generic and sourced from the main suppliers. You'll need catalogs from British Car Specialists in Stockton Ca. as they have a lot of the hard to find pieces correct for your car. Moss is good and I've been one of their distributors for over 25 years now but they don't have all the correct pieces. You'll need the Anderson / Moment restoration book to really see what is right for your car.
 
I sprung for the new, glossy photo paper catalog from Denis Welch. It's porn for Healey nuts, but also has some practical upgrades and mods.
 
Brinkerhoff said:
You'll need the Anderson / Moment restoration book to really see what is right for your car.
Click to expand...

I'd love to have a copy of this ... but finding one that's "affordable" is another story.
 
Nate--

I have a brand new copy I would be willing to sell. Send me an offer in a PM if interested.
 
Mike--

You said you were interested in doing a non-concours restoration with an eye to originality. If so that would preclude some of the most common upgrades among which are an AL head, an upgraded radiator, 60 spoke wire wheels, front disc brakes, radial tires, a five-speed transmission and a taller differential. None of these was an original option and all offer either greater safety or better performance or both. With the exception of the wheels and brakes none would be noticeable on cursory examination.

I would suggest you prioritize your interests and if you plan on driving the car much, esp. on the highway, reconsider your parameters. The 100 is a fun car to drive but way more fun when it stops well, cruises at reasonable rpm's, handles heat/traffic better and is not prone to failure. I bought my car in 1999 pretty much stock and have gradually installed most all of the popular stuff. Every change was worthwhile and while the car's value may or may not have increased commensurately I have no regrets.
 
I agree the M modifications may not be worth it on a sound engine...when I rebuilt my motor I needed new pistons and a new or reground cam anyway so I went to M spec, I did not get the bigger carbs, also had some weight taken off the flywheel, it is a boat anchor meant for a truck and 10 pounds or so can be shaved off it easily. None of these changes are detectable by looking.

The stock compression ratio is 7.5/1, that is really low, increasing cr a modest amount really has no downside.

They are great cars, a lot of people go to a later four speed or even a modern five speed, they are certainly better gearboxes, easier to find parts for, less likely to leak or break, but I really think the 3 speed is a big part of what makes the car unique and cool, and works fine with the torquey 4 and relaxed touring nature of the car.

Disk brakes are a bolt on conversion with later Healey Parts, mine had remained before I got the car, so I can't really say how much better they might work with the disks, but seems like a logical and reversible safety upgrade.
 
simon1966 said:
So many 100's seem to have the M "mods" that it is almost a rare sight anymore to see a stock car.
Click to expand...

Installing Le Mans kit components and louvered bonnets especially is so common that I refer to my red 100 - a standard car, never restored - as having the "ultrarare, louverless bonnet."

Front disc brakes on a 100 are a treat. I owned a BN2 with them and they made a huge difference - it almost didn't seem like a 100. That said, with my four-wheel drum brake 100s I've become accustomed to allowing lots of distance between me and the car in front of me to the point that it's just second nature. I stay alert, plan ahead, drive defensively and don't worry excessively.

By all means, stick with a color originally offered on your model of Healey. You (or perhaps your heirs) will thank me later. Yes, there are a few non-original colors that work and that wow the collector crowd (i.e., auction-goers) and that garner cheap plaques at "popular vote" format car shows, so it is quite possible to choose a color or color combo that will not result in a loss of value, but much more often, a non-original color diminishes the car's value; not always, just most of the time. If you go with a non-original color or color combo, consider it long and carefully, please.

I see that you're local to me. I live in northeast Portland and operate a shop in southern Vancouver: Commonwealth Classics Ltd. Let me know if we may be of service. (You could call that a shameless plug, but since I take no money from the business and operate it as a service to the British car community, it's more akin to a Public Service Announcement.)
 
Hi Portlandia -

I think you're going to enjoy and learn a lot on this forum.

I agree with the above comments and I would like add one more. And, that is to be sure to get your front spindles Magnaflux inspected. They have a bad reputation for cracking in the area of the fillet where the stub axle shaft protrudes from the main mass of the forging. If a complete break were to occur, the entire wheel assembly will depart from the rest of your nice shiny freshly-restored Healey. It won't be fun! Magnaflux inspection is relatively cheap and will provide some peace of mind.

I hope that enjoy the restoration process. I'm sure that you'll enjoy driving the finished car. Have fun!.

Bill
 
re: "... get your front spindles Magnaflux inspected."

At the least, suspend a front spindle with a piece of wire and give it a rap with a small hammer, a wrench or similar. If you don't have crack(s), the spindle will 'ring,' if you have crack(s) you'll hear more of a 'thunk.'
 
Thank you for all the suggestions, they are truly helpful. I learned to drive in a '66 AH 3000 with my father (since sold). My son will be born this August and I would love for him to learn to drive in the 100/4. I guess I am saying that I intend to keep the car, and hope to have it on the road within the next 16 years!

I appreciate the suggestions to keep the car original, I am a bit of an originality nut, and I'm glad to hear this is an acceptable practice! That said, I believe tasteful and discrete upgrades to make the car safe for modern traffic are in order (e.g. disc brakes). I do not intend to show the car.


At the Denis Welch website, I noticed a number of parts for the 100S. Are folks now building the 100 cars to the S-specification? I can’t imagine why Denis Welch has a complete catalog to support the 50 or so S-cars? Interesting.

I came across the Anderson/Moment book on Google Books, and managed to save the first 30 or so pages which fortunately cover the 100. Is there any additional talk of re-printing?

Thanks again,
Cheers - Mike
 
Hi Mike,

One thing I would suggest is if your budget will allow, restoring/re-chroming original trim pieces rather than buying brand new reproductions. I fell into the trap of "oh a brand new "premium" piece can be had for 1/2 or less than re-chroming this crappy looking old part" and going that route. Well even the so called "premium" reproduction trim parts are really quite poor in fitment and plating quality.

Sounds like you have things under control on the Anderson/Moment book. I certainly wouldn't pay much for one. Any time I have really needed help, it has let me down, meaning the specific item I was stuck on was not mentioned and the few pictures are so small...

Later,
Walt
 
WaltCasten said:
Sounds like you have things under control on the Anderson/Moment book. I certainly wouldn't pay much for one. Any time I have really needed help, it has let me down, meaning the specific item I was stuck on was not mentioned and the few pictures are so small...
Click to expand...

You know, the Anderson/Moment book was basically just a re-write of the Concours Committee's Originality Guidelines, with photos. Well, the Guidelines have been much improved and expanded and updated with new information in the years since the A/M book was published. You can buy a copy of the Guidelines from the Concours Committee for a mere $30 (I believe that was the price the last time I heard it). Click here for the contact info to buy a set.
 
WaltCasten said:
Hi Mike,

One thing I would suggest is if your budget will allow, restoring/re-chroming original trim pieces rather than buying brand new reproductions. I fell into the trap of "oh a brand new "premium" piece can be had for 1/2 or less than re-chroming this crappy looking old part" and going that route. Well even the so called "premium" reproduction trim parts are really quite poor in fitment and plating quality.

Sounds like you have things under control on the Anderson/Moment book. I certainly wouldn't pay much for one. Any time I have really needed help, it has let me down, meaning the specific item I was stuck on was not mentioned and the few pictures are so small...
Click to expand...

I both agree and disagree with your comments. Regarding, re-chroming pieces, that depends at least partly on what one is having re-chromed. My experience with having heavily pitted parts re-chromed is not good. They looked good at first. But before long, the pitting reappeared and I then bought reproduction parts anyway. Maybe pot metal is the worst for this. Just today, I ordered a set of new trunk hinges from Britain for the BN4, instead of having the old pitted set re-chromed. Live and learn.

Regarding the Anderson-Moment book, there are so many questions and details that it does not address. Of course no book can include all the details that one needs to know to restore and work on these cars. A forum like this one provides an invaluable resource.
 
Back
Top