Wedge TR8 Suspension/Plan of Attack

[SCguy]

I just received bushings,springs, needle bearings, shocks and sway bars from TSI for my TR8.

Can anyone comment on what my plan of attack should be? Useful tips, suggestions. I have repair manual and I believe all the correct tools. I guess I'll do the rear first beginning Friday evening.

 

[swift6]

Be glad you have a DHC. Accessing the right rear shock on a FHC in NOT fun. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

If you don't have any yet, get a good quality silicone grease to lube the bushings if they are the poly units. Also check to make sure you can actually identify the longer vs. the shorter metal sleeves for the bushings.

My front control arm bushings had more of a mushroom shaped head than flat for fitting into the subframe. I had to slowly sand them down, making figure eight loops to try and keep them flat, in order to get them to fit. End result was probably how they were suppposed to be shipped. Their 'new' flat face made much vetter contact with the subframe than the mushroom shape would have.

If you have the larger front sway bar and have to 'drill out' the stock clamps and such, good luck finding an 'inexpensive' drill bit. I have a $40 drill bit that may eventually be used elsewhere... maybe.

If you find the front sway bar 'troublesome' to get back into the control arms... don't be surprised if you do. A ratcheting tie down strap can tension the bar enough to get its ends into the sway bars.

Get new hardware for mounting the struts to the body.


That's all I can think of for now.

I can't really compare how the stock suspension worked compared to TSI's uprated stuff. My stock suspension was pretty well worn. Though now I have their poly bushings, springs and uprated sway bars and holy cow does that car corner flat now. It also rides a little rough. You'll feel evry tar strip and bump but its not horrible.

It sticks so well in corners that if anything is loose in the cockpit it can be come a flying object rather quickly. The car is still cornering flat when it starts throwing stuff around too. This is with pretty plain jane all season radials too. When I fit sticky tires on larger rims, it just might scare me...

Have fun... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thirsty.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif

 

[tr8todd]

The rear is a piece of cake. You will need two 9/16 wrenchs or a wrench and a socket for the shock nuts. Jack up the rear end under he pumpkin and lower the car onto jack stands. Support the car at the body not the rear control arms or rear end.(you will need to lower it to get the springs out) Keep the jack under the pumpkin. Remove the shocks and then slowly lower the rear until the springs come out. Be careful of the rear brake hose. Don't let it strech lowering the rear. Make sure you install new spring rubbers and shock bushings. If you are going to do the control arm bushings too, it will be easier to do them one at a time. The old ones can be pressed out in a large vise. If you don't have a vise, you can burn them out, but you will need to repaint the control arms.
The front is a different story. It's dangerous and difficult if you don't know what you are doing. You will need spring compressors, a ball joint tool(pickle fork), and most likely an impact gun to remove the top strut nut. The rear can be done in about 2 hours if all you are doing is shocks and springs. Add about 3 more for bushings. The front will take all day at best. On the front, don't be surprised if you need to change tie rod ends and ball joints as well. Also be prepared to go 10 rounds with the retaining nut on the strut tube. It goes alot easier if you have spare parts to build up first and then switch in.(that's why there are so many TR7's to chop up) The mods will make a night and day difference. ENJOY!
I just finished building up a set of Rover SD1 struts to use in one of my TR8s. They have a larger spindle, bearings, and hub. They use a slightly larger damper. The steering arm and lower control arm are a direct bolt up. I put on adjustable threaded coil over sleeves. Now I can go to a five lug wheel and off the shelf vented front rotors with Willwood calipers. The downfall is that my front track will be about 1.5 inches wider. As long as I get a Ford posi rear end with about the same track, I will be all set. That will allow me to use 5 lug wheels with a front drive offset in order to restore the stock track. I should be able to finish this whole project including Konis, springs, posi rear and wheels for 2 to 2.5K

 

[philman]

i got a set of poly front sway bar bushings, including the clamps, from a 4x4 suspension place for ted's uprated sway bar (he was out of the bushings). cost about $25 pair. I can look for receipt if you like. That was easier than modifying the stock clamps. Now would be a good time to replace the ball joints, tie rod ends and upgrade to Ted's flexible brake lines.

 

[PATR8]

I agree with Todd, the rear is a peice of cake, let the axle do the work, the front kick my arse for at least 4 hours, the strut being the biggest pain. I did all poly all around with my front 5 years ago and finally my rear last year when I went to a 3.45 rear axle. Be careful of the spring compression crap and do not skimp on a spring compressor. It is dangerous and hard. Tie rods and ball joints, I took it to a local suspension shop and 2 hours and $70 they did them for me.

 

[SCguy]

My ball joints and tie rod ends were relaced less than 4000 miles ago. Should I plan on relacing them again?

 

[tr8todd]

You might. If the boots are ripped or they feel sloppy, then they gotta go. The ones coming out of India and China don't last all that long.

 

[Cheapsnake]

What Todd said about the front struts - x 2.

 

[chrisc]

Hey guys,

I'm right in the middle of this project right now...I've found this anything but easy.

Got the back done and had to powersaw through a bolt that was fused to the metal insert. Not fun /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif

Struggling with the front now. Only have the right side strut assembly out. Had to powersaw through a lower ball joint that would not budge /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif Also will likely need to powersaw through the bolt holding the control arm as it too seems to be fused to the tube inside the bushing
I'm assuming that those of you that have done the lower ball joints have needed to take control arm to a machine shop or somewhere that has the capability to press out the ball joint and press in the new ball joint?

The top turret and nut on the complete strut assembly are pretty rusted. I'm thinking I'll just saw through this (with the spring compressors on of course) and buy a new nut rather than struggle with trying to impact this out.

Wow, what a job this is, have not even gotten to the sub-frame bushings yet....one weekend in so far and several more to go! I can't imagine this was a fun job for the dealer tech's back in the day.....

Chris

 

[tdskip]

Chris - any pictures for us?

 

[tr8todd]

You must have a bad one. They usually are not that bad. It's always easier if you have spare parts and can build alot of it up before hand. When you get it all out, make sure you paint everything up with some black Hammerite. I just finished rebuilding the front subframe on my BMW 2002 race car. I had few spares and had a hard time remembering where everything went. I here alot about how great German engineering is. Let me tell you something, I didn't see it on the 2002. Really made me appreciate the TR8 front setup. Now if I can only figure out how to install a double wishbone suspension like the TVR has, I'd be really happy. Oh well, I guess I'll have to settle for SD1 struts, Wilwood brakes, coil-overs, camber plates, poly bushings, TR7 manual steering rack, and a massive sway bar. Good luck with the rest of the project.

 

[chrisc]

Yeah,

I think I have the demon-seed of TR8's!

I've had frustrations with doors and now with stuck suspension bolts in the few months that I've owned the car, but, I'm in it for the long-haul. Lot's of oil covering the front bolts also! You'd think that would provide natural protection, but I guess it must have spent some time in a harsh climate for the first couple of years that started the bolt fusion years ago.

 

[PATR8]

As I am transfering my 8's engine and drive line to the 7 DHC, I too just finished the front suspension. Thankfully it is the second time I did it. I upgraded the struts and bushings when I rebuilt my 8 eight years ago. This time everything came apart as I remembered. I did notice a need for new ball joints , they did not fair so well over eight years. The front suspension is a major PITA and teh front springs almost knocked me out two or three times the first time I replaced the struts. GET GOOD SPRING COMPRESSORS, do not skimp on them. Rear suspension. Just like they said, falls right apart with it's own weight