Those screws serve not only to adjust the individual idles of each carb, but also serve as a balancer for the two. That isn't where you start. You need to make sure the diaphrams are in good shape, the needles are not bent, there is no crap in the float bowls, the pistons move freely and there is the proper amount and type of oil in the dampers. These things are very complicated. You also have an adjustment inside the carb for the needles(adjusts fuel mixture). The most common reason for the carbs to have a high idle is the choke itself. It is a wax filled acorn looking thing that is suppose to keep the idle high until the engine temp warms up) I say suppose to. Very common for these to stop working and maintain a high idle. To start with, you better have a unisinc or something similar before you even start adjusting the carbs. If you are not familiar with the way the carbs work, you are better off taking it to someone the first time. At least get a book. As has been stated previously, most people rip them off and install a 4 barrel Edelbrock manifold and a Holley carb. Add a bigger cam, and headers while your at it. It will transform the car from difficult to work on and sluggish, into a clean fighting machine. I have a green low mileage convertible. I swore I was going to keep this one stock. I got so frustrated with it that I gave up. It now has a 4 barrel, headers, cam, Ford posi rear end, big brakes, big wheels, big sway bar, coil over adjustable springs and shocks, Chevy aluminum radiator, eurethane bushings, lightweight bumpers, etc, etc, etc. I managed to shed 250 pounds, gain horse power, and gain fuel economy. When I finish the interior, I'll have a car that will start up and go with no fuss.