Wedge TR7 rear brake questions

[Got_All_4]

My 1980 5spd PI Tr7 brakes seem to be less then desirable. I replaced the front pads last fall but always felt that the front brakes were doing all the work. In fact the E-brake would not work. Decided to take the rears off Tuesday and found that most of the moving parts were locked up. Took it all apart cleaned everything. Lube it all with anti-seize and even bought new shoes from Team Triumph. The thickness of the new pads were almost identical to the old ones. Before setting off on a test drive I backup and hit the brakes several times. During test drive 12 miles I'm still not happy with the stopping power of the brake system. Could be a lot better in my opinion. But the e-brake works. Anything I could be missing?

 

[tr8todd]

Nope. TR7 and TR8 rear brakes do little if anything because they are designed that way. You would need to change the way the brakes are proportioned front to back in order to gain any significant rear brakes. Without doing such, you will never get the rears to even lock up in a panic stop. At least the ebrake works now.

 

[Got_All_4]

Is there anyway to modify the pressure reducing valve to get more pressure to the rears?

 

[tr8todd]

Yes, you can put a him in there. Ted sells ones that are already done wit an exchange for your old one. Or you can just eliminate the valve and run a tee. Pipe the rears directly and tee the fronts.

 

[Got_All_4]

Have you used one or know anyone that's installed one. Results?
Cheap enough only $45 from TEd.

 

[philman]

I have one of Ted's proportioning valves in my dhc.The rear brakes do grab more, but still don't lock up easily.I occasionally auto cross and it did help with braking control.

 

[Got_All_4]

That's what I'm hoping for. I too want to auto cross at the TRF party this year with it but not use to such week breaking particularly after a front and rear brake job.

 

[Got_All_4]

My Triumph mechanic call me today to see if I had an extra starter for a TR3 around. Told him about my braking concerns for the 7 and he told me when he use to race his Mini to improve his rear breaking he took an adjustable proportioning valve from a Volvo and mounted it in the cotpit where he could adjust the brakes while driving. Were going to trade off some work for my starter. But only after my foot heals. If anyone is interested in the results let me know and I'll post them.

 

[tr8todd]

On most cars that is the exact right thing to do. On the wedge, you will probably end up adjusting it all the way so that it doesn't proportion at all. In essence you will be running the rears directly just with a fancy $50 part in line. On the race car, I actually have the proportioning valve in the cockpit, but instead of installing it on the rears like you would on most cars, I installed it on the fronts. By teeing them directly and then stepping down the fronts proportionally, I was finally able to get the rears to lock up if I wasn't careful. My suggestion is to start by just eliminating the stock valve all together and see if your happy with that. If you still don't have enough rear braking, then step down the fronts. If you have too much rear lock up, step down the rears. The best way to check for lock up is take a long sweeping curve in an empty parking lot and then attempt a panic stop. If the car swaps ends, you got too much rear brake. It should just push in a straight line as you brake for safety reasons. If you turn your car into a dedicated track car, then you can set it for max rear braking where it will swap ends if you do something stupid. Threshold braking in a straight line is easy. Threshold braking in a car with an 85 inch wheelbase when the front wheels aren't pointing straight ahead is very difficult if not deadly.

 

[DNK]

I have one of Ted's proportioning valves in my dhc.The rear brakes do grab more, but still don't lock up easily.I occasionally auto cross and it did help with braking control.

PHIL- Where the H*E* double hockey sticks you been?