TR6 TR6 Starter issue......SUPER!!

[bricktop]

If this continues, I'll have to quit my fulltime job and become an LBC mechanic....SO, after dropping 8 bills to get a tune-up...now I have a starter issue.

Prior to today, upon trying to start my 6, every once in a while the starter would give me a loud metallic whine and not turn the engine over. It has happened two or three times over the couple of years. This afternoon, all I can get is that disturbing noise and no engine crank...just a loud whir that sounds like metal on metal.

I'm sure someone out there can diagnose this to within an inch of its life...little help?

Thanks.

Carter - 1976 TR6

 

[Brosky]

You have a problem inside the starter motor with the starter drive spinning or slipping, for lack of a better term. It may even have some teeth missing. You could replace the drive, if you can find one, but if it's the original starter, you are probably better off having it rebuilt or replacing it with a new gear reduction unit.

 

[bricktop]

that whooshing sound you hear is money flying out of my wallet at an increasing rate.....AAAAARRRGGGHHHH.

 

[poolboy]

If this continues, I'll have to quit my fulltime job and become an LBC mechanic....SO, after dropping 8 bills to get a tune-up...now I have a starter issue.
Carter - 1976 TR6

8 bills !! As in 8 hundred dollars for a tune up ?

 

[NutmegCT]

Paul - does the TR6 starter have that "thrust" problem rebuild issue like my TR3 bullet starter had? It wears so the gears won't move out (or in) to engage the ring gear? Somewhere here I read that guys will try to rebuild a starter, and cut corners so they won't have to replace that thrust assembly; something is "welded" together for a quick fix. Sorry I can't remember all the details, but you were the one who clued me into that issue.

Poolboy - I have to join in on the $800 for a tune-up question. Yikes! How many solid gold points and plugs did that tune-up include?

Tom

 

[bricktop]

well, by the time it was finished....yes, 800.00. The bitch of it is the car wasn't running particularly poorly when I decided to take it in for service. I just hadn't had a tune-up since taking ownership a few years ago and figured it was due.
First visit included: tune up, valve adjustment, tighten valve cover retaining studs, clean and tighten loose rocker shaft screws, plugs, wires, condenser and set ignition timing. Adjust carbs and test drive. Four hours of labor @90.00 and about 240.00 in parts = 547.00

After picking the car up, it ran fine on the way home. Had difficulty with the idle immediately after that. It was shallow and weak, even with full choke. In fact, car would not idle at all without choke engaged. Took it back to shop.

Round two: chokes won't return, are hanging up on something. Bend choke operating rod to reduce side loading on jet. Front float valve leaking as well. Replace both with Viton tipped valves. Piston rest button on front carb has overheated and melted allowing piston to rest directly on bridge. Use locktite to reposition button. Readjust carbs. Three hours labor @ 90.00 and 50.00 parts = 334.00

 

[Marvin Gruber]

$90 an hour, maybe I should unretire and move to your area. $35 is std hrly rate at a nondealership shop here. If you dig into your starter and find you need bendrix or other starter part, let me know I have a small pile of them from years of collecting. I won't cost you a arm or leg.

Marv

 

[DNK]

35/hr.
You must be stuck in a way back machine.

 

[TR3driver]

Paul - does the TR6 starter have that "thrust" problem rebuild issue like my TR3 bullet starter had?

It shouldn't. The TR6 changed to a "pre-engaged" design, where the solenoid pulls the gears into engagement before applying power to the motor.

But I believe some TR5/250 used an inertia type (aka Bendix drive) starter; and that starter would probably fit the TR6, so there may be some out there.

 

[poolboy]

But I believe some TR5/250 used an inertia type (aka Bendix drive) starter; and that starter would probably fit the TR6, so there may be some out there.

It does. Also the Spitfire inertia type starter fits and works if you use a spacer and a seperate solenoid. I have that set up. When I got my car 3 years ago I went that route to deal with a buggered ring gear on the motor side of the flywheel. The tranny side was as new and responded well to the modification ala TR-250. Like this:
https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRIUMPH-S...p4506.m20.l1116
This:
https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRIUMPH-S...p4506.m20.l1116
And this:
https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MG-MIDGET...p4506.m20.l1116

 

[TR3driver]

to deal with a buggered ring gear

Which might well be Carter's problem as well. Another problem that I've heard of is the ring gear walking off the flywheel, so the starter doesn't always engage. And on the Stag starter (which looks to be very similar to the TR6), it's possible for the pivot pin to fall out, producing those symptoms. Item ED7 here (Earlier starters had a threaded pin, which might also fall out I believe.)

But I have very little experience with later TRs, so some of you TR6 gurus are going to have to help him out.

 

[Terry_Geiger]

Something that may be happening that I haven't heard mentioned, the starter ring gear (on the flywheel) may have worked forward to the point that the starter won't engage - or - you may have damaged teeth on the ring gear. A few badly worn teeth on one spot can cause this. Due to compression, an engine usually stops in several different positions and these positions tend to have more wear on the ring gear. If the engine stops occassionally at one of the positions that is badly worn, the starter will be unwilling to engage properly. Hopefully it is just a starter problem but you might want to inspect the ring gear by removing the starter and slowly turning the engine by hand, inspecting each section of the ring gear. Removing the spark plugs will help to make the engine turn easier.

 

[BobbyD]

$90 an hour, maybe I should unretire and move to your area. $35 is std hrly rate at a nondealership shop here. If you dig into your starter and find you need bendrix or other starter part, let me know I have a small pile of them from years of collecting. I won't cost you a arm or leg. Marv

Marv....please move to Connecticut and open a shop at $35/hr! The going rate here is about $80 and up for both independent shops and dealerships. What's always fun is going into a multiple model dealership like VW/Audi/Porsche and seeing 3 different labor rates based on car make. I guess they base it on "ability to pay"