That looks to be the kit designed by Jack & Tony Drews. It was actually two stages, the first stage was just the spacer & shims to go between the bearing races, which adds a great deal of stiffness to the stub axle. Some other sports cars of the period used the same technique to stiffen the axle.
IMO, on the street, the spacer should be good enough. You can get just the spacers & shims from TRF, P/N HP660, for less than half the price of the full kit (and no having to remove the old stub axles).
https://trf.zeni.net/webcatalog/specials6.21/6.php
Actually, I've driven all these years just letting the stock setup flex a bit with no real issues other than I can notice the low brake pedal after hard cornering. (The spindle flex allows the brake disc to move sideways relative to the caliper, pushing the piston back into the caliper on that side. Obviously, I have disabled the factory solution on the earlier TRs, the Residual Pressure Valve on top of the 5-way connector near the RF wheel.)
When I changed a stub axle years ago, just beating with a BFH didn't cut it. I got the old one out by stacking up some sockets and whatnot, then using a grade 8 nut (not the stock castellated nut) as a puller. Tightened that down until I thought something would break, then started whacking with a BFH again. It popped apart after 4 or 5 blows.
I think the secret is to get some strain on the joint, and then use the hammer blows to set up vibration to help work it apart. More recently I've been using much the same technique to separate solid axle rear hubs. So far, it has worked perfectly on 4 out of 5 hubs (the first one popped apart with just some hammer blows).