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Thermostats: because I have no pride,

livinginthepast

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nor fear of being labeled an idiot, I shall ask the following question.

Besides a generous application of c-4, what is your secret trick for removing a thermostat housing that has become one with the cylinder head?

I had this great idea. Since I have no idea how long the coolant had been in that old radiator, I would flush the system and while I'm at it, install the 160 degree thermostat for summer driving.

All was progressing well, until I tried to remove the thermostat housing.

Now, this is the little 948. I tried striking around the perimeter with a mallet and oak hammer handle in an effort to loosen the thing up. I couldn't really get the clearance to strike upward on the throat of the housing dammit, I thought about jamming that oak stick into the throat of the housing and prying upward, but then I wasn't sure how much abuse the housing could take before I damaged it.

So I sprayed some Blaster around the bolts, closed the hood and walked away for round two scheduled for tomorrow after work.

Might I try taking a paint scraper and tapping it between the head and the housing, or would this risk scarring the mating surfaces?

Any tips and tricks would be appreciated! :smile:

And thank you for your patience...
 

twas_brillig

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Sacrificing chickens over flaming Castrol?
Invoking the Prince of Darkness (Lucas - not the other guy)?

Sorry: couldn't resist the image. Seriously - soak everything in your favourite penetrating substance and touch wood. Don't force anything at this point.

Doug
 
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livinginthepast

livinginthepast

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Thanks, Doug. There are times where I have considered sacrifice.

The best part is that many years ago, I had a hoodoo voodoo gal in New Orleans put together a chicken foot talisman that is supposed to bring safe travels - and wouldn't you know it, that chicken foot is in the BE at this very moment! hahaha! Now, I'm not not at all superstitious, but that chicken foot lives in every old car that I've owned since about '95.
 
G

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I wouldn't jam anything b/w the surfaces. It's o.k to ~GENTLY~ pry there, but don't go to jamming.
 
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livinginthepast

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kellysguy said:
I wouldn't jam anything b/w the surfaces. It's o.k to ~GENTLY~ pry there, but don't go to jamming.

yeah, I thought about making a run to the local Home Despot and grabbing some of those plastic paint scrapers to see if I could use them to help separate the two surfaces (tapping them with a hammer) - and avoid risking damage to anything. But I'm guessing I would watch as those scrapers disintegrated into millions of little plastic shards and all I would accomplish is making a bigger mess!

Thanks!
 

JPSmit

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Do you have a dead blow hammer?
 

spritenut

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Heat it up, stick a screwdriver handle in the hole, lift and separate.
A thin blade scraper under the cover works too but be careful.
Use Neversieze on the studs when putting it back so the next time it comes off with no effort.
 
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KSIS

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They are fused together because of unlike metals. I had the same issue on my Midget. I built a dam with clay at the bottom of the housing and around the out side of the base, filled it with PB blast for the day. The PB wicked it and loosened it enough to tap it off.
If you dont have a dead blow hammer, wrap a regular ball peen or caprenter hammser a couple time with a rag.
 
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livinginthepast

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JPSmit said:
Do you have a dead blow hammer?

No, just a lowly rubber mallet. However, that can be resolved by a ten minute trip down the road...
 
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livinginthepast

livinginthepast

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spritenut said:
Heat it up, stick a screwdriver handle in the hole, lift and separate.
A thin blade scraper under the cover works too but be careful.
Use Neversieze on the studs when putting it back so the next time it comes off with no effort.

See, I didn't even think of heating it up. I'll give that a go, too.
 
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livinginthepast

livinginthepast

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KSIS said:
They are fused together because of unlike metals. I had the same issue on my Midget. I built a dam with clay at the bottom of the housing and around the out side of the base, filled it with PB blast for the day. The PB wicked it and loosened it enough to tap it off.
If you dont have a dead blow hammer, wrap a regular ball peen or caprenter hammser a couple time with a rag.

While I didn't build the clay dam, I did soak the bolts down last night in da' PBblast.

I've decided to work from home today, so maybe I'll sneak out a little later in the morning and see if a night in the solvent has persuaded it to let go.
 

Pythias

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When you put it back together, use BOLTS instead of studs to make it easier the next time.
 

smaceng

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Yes, bolts instead of studs. The reason the housings get stuck on is because of the corrosion between the studs and the housing, not because of the housing to block surface. The last one I took off required a die cutter to the housing to get at the studs.
Scott in CA
 
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livinginthepast

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Bolts sound like the way to go! Thanks for this!
 

Billm

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BillW
Why would you want to go to a 160 thermostat? It never gets hot or even warm here in the summer!
Leave the 180 in, it works well and you won't set yourself up for another leak.
BillM
 

jlaird

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Course you could alwanys use a stud puller then a paint scraper between the head and the alum fitting.
 
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livinginthepast

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Billm said:
BillW
Why would you want to go to a 160 thermostat? It never gets hot or even warm here in the summer!
Leave the 180 in, it works well and you won't set yourself up for another leak.
BillM

Hey there BillM -

Yeah, I know. And if I were only driving in the spring or fall, I wouldn't be changing it out. But inevitably what happens is that events I want to attend or the days/weekends that I can just take off on long drives are the same ones that see our temperatures spike to 100 or above. And then I get stuck in traffic or god knows what else...and I nervously watch that temp gauge climb and climb and climb. So this year, I wanted to at least take a small step towards reducing my heat anxiety. Maybe its a response to driving my MKII around - which overheated no matter what I did... :smile:
 

JPSmit

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that being the case you might want to get your rad checked and boiled while things are dismantled. (and if you do get a draincock)
 

Pythias

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Never gets hot? It was 98 degrees for the ABFM just three years ago. 98 freaking degrees in SEATTLE. I got caught in blocks long traffic jambs the day before when it was only 95 degrees. (with no overheating problems I might add)
 
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livinginthepast

livinginthepast

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Good point JPSmit.

Update: Not one to admit defeat easily, I am reporting that after repeated PB Blastings and gentle beatings today, I can see some movement common to the rear, left stud. It may only be a thousandth or two (all that I know is that I can't get .009 feeler gauge under it), but it's better than where I was last night.

In a way, I'm glad I had the dental surgery yesterday, as painful as it was and continues to be. The painkillers have kept me very patient and methodical, preventing me from losing my temper and doing unthinkable damage in fit of thermostat housing induced rage.
 

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