Rust Removal Product Comparison

[Lin]

I am trying to do some rust removal on the heater box of my Jaguar MK2 restoration project ( I still love my Healey more!). A Jaguar email lister recommended molasses so I did a little research and I thought I would share two sources with you that may be of interest since we all know how prone Healeys are to rust..


The first one is about molasses and is frankly pretty remarkable if you have the time:


https://blog.1aauto.com/2011/02/21/did-you-know-that-molasses-is-a-rust-remover/


The second is a Hot Rod magazine article comparing many rust removal products, chemical and blasting.


https://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/body/hrdp_0901_rust_removal_guide/viewall.html


Whether you need to use any of these products or not, I think you will find the short articles of interest.


Lin




Lin Rose
1959 AN5 Bugeye - pure driving enjoyment, go-kart with a body.
1960 BT7 "The Bloody Beast" - owned since 1971, my first car and still have it!
1964 Jag MKII - current project

 

[Lin]

From an earlier post you may have read that I media blasted my 64 MK2 heater box and while it cleaned up pretty well, the air control heater flaps were both frozen in place. Even after applying heat I could not get them to budge. AWG, on the saloon-lovers Jaguar list suggested a water/molasses mix that may well have worked, but it takes a long time. Pete55Tbird recommended electrolysis.

I watched a few YouTube videos on using electrolysis for rust removal, and thought I would give it a try. Many of you have probably done this, but it was new to me. Although I was working on the Jag I thought my Healey friends might be interested. I emulated this particular video: https://youtu.be/54ADeB6V1rQ

I put the heater box into 14 gallons of water with 14 tablespoons of sodium carbonate. The videos recommend using Arm and Hammer Super Washing Soda, but good luck finding it in a store! I ended up "cooking" baking soda at 200 degrees for an hour to release the carbon dioxide, and thereby turning the sodium bicarbonate into sodium carbonate. Worked like a charm.

I then attached my battery charger and let the magic begin. I put the box in the solution at 9:00 PM and after two hours I was surprised at how much the water color had changed from clear to rust given how clean the box already was from blasting. The solution just gets into places the aluminum oxide blast abrasive cannot. I then let it all sit until about 8:00 AM this morning.

I cleaned up my mess and put the box on the work table expecting to be disappointed, but I was not. One flap started working immediately, needing little coercion. The second required some pushing and pulling and a little lubrication but it now functions properly as well!

Thanks to Pete for his recommendation. I would use this process again in a minute. Very inexpensive and easy. One more original part saved. I have a little pitting to fill with body filler, but otherwise should be a very serviceable unit.

Try it - you will like it.

In the images below the light colored water image was at 9:00 PM almost exactly when the Box went in the solution. The darker colored water image was taken at 8:00 AM the next morning when the Box was removed from the solution.

Lin

 

[NutmegCT]

Lin - that's really interesting. Would you have a before and after picture of the heater box itself? dry and not in the liquid?

Thanks.
Tom

 

[Lin]

I knew that someone would ask that. However, since I media blasted the box before I tried electrolysis, the outward physical appearance did not change much in this instance. Before and after just would not show much change. If you try YouTube and search for electrolysis rust removal there are a few videos that will show you the change in appearance of some pretty nasty parts. Sorry I cannot be further help in this instance.

I can tell you, though, that the two flaps in the heater were frozen tight before electrolysis. Afterwords, no problems.
Lin

 

[Hawkscoach]

Lin,

Very good information. I assume that nuts/bolts could also be treated this way? I have always wanted to try this and now I will just because.........currently, I have used media blasting, the vibrating drum/tumbler (works great for small parts, just add medium, parts.....turn on and leave it to work) and I also have used a "eco-friendly" water based solution from Eastwood Companies that works great but is very expensive for 5 gallons. The electrolysis in combination with the media blasting seems to be the best option. Any tricks on restoring/blackening the nuts/bolts? I just dropped off parts to Healey Surgeons for Kingpins and brake pistons. progress......

Doug

 

[HealeyPassion]

Thanks Lin! I didn't know this... very interesting!

Steve
https://stevesaustinhealey.com

 

[Lin]

Doug,
After cleaning either with wire brush, blasting or electrolysis, I send my fasteners to Billmark, Co. Billmark Company, Inc., 2232 Solona, Fort Worth, Texas 76117. I have no financial interest, I am just a happy customer. They do Cad, Zinc, Tin, Copper and phosphate plating. I have had them do both white (clear) cad and white zinc. Both products looked great. They are also willing to take very small batches. I have sent as few as ten pieces before. It usually takes about two weeks from when I put the parts in the mail till I get them back. I usually call ahead just to tell them know that parts are on the way, but I am sure that is unnecessary.

Lin

 

[BoyRacer]

What's really great about electrolysis is that it also removes crud such as undercoating from parts that aren't even rusted. Sometimes it just takes a day or two so don't be in a rush.

 

[19pantherlima80]

Thanks for sharing the Electrolysis video and the experience you had with it i will have to try this. also out of curiosity what does it cost to get things zinc or cad plated , just to kind of get an idea.
Alfonso

 

[Lin]

I am not sure how the cost is calculated. It may be weight. I have been working with small parcels. One time was about 100 pieces, mostly bolts, another was only about half a dozen but they were things like bonnet latches and some odd slightly larger pieces. Each of those times the cost was under 50 dollars including postage both ways.
Lin