FWIW Skip, when I converted my TR3A to a 60 amp Motorcraft alternator I only upgraded the wire from the alternator to the main wiring harness. All of the charging circuit through the harness seemed adequate to me (actually larger than my GM car had) so I left it alone. Since the stock ammeter only reads to 30 amps, and I hate seeing it pegged, I added a shunt across the back so that 30 amps indicated was approximately 60 amps actual. The TR3A ammeter uses clamp-type connections, so it was easy to add strands of steel "handy wire" (aka baling wire) until the discharge with the headlights on (engine off) read about 1/2 as much as before adding the shunt.
The steel did corrode a bit after 20 years of service, so next time I had the dash apart I measured the resistance of the ammeter, and used a calculated length of copper wire to make the shunt.