Old bumpers

[NutmegCT]

Original bumpers from 1958. New bumpers aren't an option for me right now (they'd be over $5000).

What are my options for "improving" the looks of what I've got now? I know I can get them re-chromed, and that there are many places which do that work. Fortunately BCF has many comments on recommended shops.

But are there other (temporary) options? Grinding off the rust bumps, other re-surfacing techniques, paint/spray, stainless steel, etc.? Anything I can do myself, just to improve the looks for a year or two 'til I win PowerBall?

Here's what I've got:

Thanks all.
Tom

 

[Mickey Richaud]

Hi, Tom -

If they were mine, I'd have a go at them with some steel wool, starting with coarse, and then going finer. Then a couple of coats of clear enamel. Won't be drop-dead gorgeous, but an improvement 'til your numbers come up!

Mickey

 

[NutmegCT]

Thanks Mickey.

I'm really good at asking dumb questions ... if I use the steel wool technique, will I eventually get down to steel? Or will it still be the "rusty red" color, but smooth to the touch?

Just wondering, as you mentioned clear enamel. I wouldn't want to go through all the scraping and scratching, just to see the same red "chicken pox" under the clear coat.

Thanks.
Tom

 

[rlwhitetr3b]

I have seen someone suggest a cleaner and copper wool. I think it was Randall, but it might have been on another list. If you do not get any better suggestion today, I will do some looking tonight.

 

[NutmegCT]

Thanks Rich. I'll also do a search on "bumpers" and "copper" and see what turns up.

Tom

 

[Mickey Richaud]

Thanks Mickey.
I'm really good at asking dumb questions ... if I use the steel wool technique, will I eventually get down to steel? Or will it still be the "rusty red" color, but smooth to the touch?
Just wondering, as you mentioned clear enamel. I wouldn't want to go through all the scraping and scratching, just to see the same red "chicken pox" under the clear coat.

Thanks.
Tom

And I'm REALLY good at giving dumb answers!

I would think you can "erase" all of the rust color, but the metal will be a tad uneven or pitted. Depending on how deep the rust is, and some of it looks like it's been there a while, you may well get down to the steel. But with enough work, and some sort of cleaner as Rich mentioned, it won't look all that bad. The clear enamel will brighten it up a bit...

Mickey

 

[Mickey Richaud]

OH - Get some of this stuff, too.

 

[t_bush]

Clean up rusty chrome with aluminum foil and Coke.
Really.
It will not leave fine scratches like steel wool will.
They even tried it on MythBusters. The foil and Coke trick beat out everything else they tried.
The acid in the Coke attacks the rust directly plus the electrolytic action between the chrome and aluminum breaks the rust down.

- Tim

 

[Mickey Richaud]

Neat tip - thanks, Tim - will have to experiment!

 

[NutmegCT]

Today's experiment:

Taped off two sections of rear bumper.

Left side I rubbed with copper wool and paint thinner.

Right side I rubbed with aluminum foil and Coke.

No difference I can see. Most of the rust is gone, but the pitting remains.

I've heard from some guys that I should de-rust, then sand smooth, then spray with rattle-can chrome paint.

But the chrome spray paints I've tried in the past never come out "glossy". Always a nice smooth silver, but with a matte finish.

Any recommendations on a good chrome spray paint? Is there another "step" I should take after the paint dries?

Thanks.
Tom

 

[t_bush]

Tom, I doubt you will be happy with the rattle can stuff. I have never found it to look as good as the picture on the can or to hold up to weather.
You can remove the rust, but the pitting is there forever.
You could de-rust it then fill the pits with Lab Metal. Next would be to go over it with a angle grinder with a flap disk. Then powder coat it with a chrome powder. Check out Caswell plating for pictures of parts done with the chrome powder.
Chrome powder coat has to be top coated with clear powder. Lab Metal can be had from Caswell or Fastenal.

-Tim

 

[NutmegCT]

Tim - thanks for the comments. Something that has always puzzled me: the rattle can "chrome" paints (e.g. Dupli-Color Instant Chrome) always have nice shiny illustrations, which look like brand new chrome plate. But they sure don't look like that when you're finished.

The puzzle: why are there so few 'net comments / complaints about that problem? I'd think anyone wanting to have a chrome finish would be really disappointed. I get the same appearance from spray paint labeled "brushed aluminum" or "anodized aluminum". Not shiny chrome at all.

Again, unless I'm missing something.

Thanks.
Tom

 

[Mickey Richaud]

The puzzle: why are there so few 'net comments / complaints about that problem? I'd think anyone wanting to have a chrome finish would be really disappointed. I get the same appearance from spray paint labeled "brushed aluminum" or "anodized aluminum". Not shiny chrome at all.

Again, unless I'm missing something.

Thanks.
Tom

It may be the general acceptance that the only way to get chrome to look like new is to make it new. Technology hasn't achieved alchemy. :wink:

 

[NutmegCT]

Hi Mickey - the thing that gets me, is how different the result is from the cap on the spray can. Take a look:

The shiny chrome cap sure implies that's what you're supposed to get when you use the product. As a matter of fact, the label says "see cap for color".

If a guy buys a can with a glossy red cap, he expects a glossy red finish.

If a guy buys a can with a glossy silver cap, he sure doesn't expect to get a flat silver finish.

But I can't find any on-line references from disappointed users.

Tom
Edit: It's not just this brand. The others I've tried all turn out the same. Frustrating.

 

[Mickey Richaud]

Hi Mickey - the thing that gets me, is how different the result is from the cap on the spray can. Take a look:

If a guy buys a can with a glossy silver cap, he sure doesn't expect to get a flat silver finish.

But I can't find any on-line references from disappointed users.

Tom

Yet another case of (UN)truth in advertising, mayhaps?

Frustrating, to be sure!

Those caps, I would imagine, are chrome plated...

 

[Brooklands]

Tom,
You bring back memories of my first car...my 1952 Buick Special Sedan that I "inherited" from my grandparents. It was a gray-green color that came off when using a chamois, so I decided to primer and rattle can the car in sections. The cheapest color of decent paint I could find was aluminum radiator paint of cast-iron home heating radiators. I figured it would not be too shiny, but the trunk of a '52 Buick in bright sunshine proved to not be a pleasant experience for those following the car, so I had to send it out to be repainted "professionally".

 

[Mickey Richaud]

OK, well maybe...

Check out this thread (amazingly coincidental):

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/u...n_Chrome#UNREAD

Take a look at the video especially.

 

[3798j]

Don't immediately discard this recommendation (I know in most instances after reading this I would), but there is a product called "Quick-Glo" that I've used for more than 3 decades to remove rust (without scratching) from thinly plated bicycle chrome fenders and handlebars that at first glance appeared to be nothing but rust. A truly remarkable product that gets favorably talked about on some other car forums.
https://harriscyclery.net/product/quick-glo-chrome-cleaner-rust-remover-8-oz.-jar-3067.htm

 

[bighealeysource]

Hey Tom,
I have used Duplicolor Chrome rattle can paint and it's not too bad.
Actually has reflectivity. I have tried clear coating it but that seems
to dull it down. You might also try Eastwood's chrome paint as understand
that is pretty good too but have not personally used it.
Good luck,
Mike

 

[bighealeysource]

per my earlier comment, I meant to add I used it on small parts that were zinc
plated so they did not have a true chrome plating but again, the paint does
have some reflectivity so maybe better than looking at rust if you're on
a budget !