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TR6 Freeze [casting] engine plugs, 69 TR6
- Thread starter ichthos
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To get them out: use a steel bar and hit them off centre and they will pivot. Then use a pair of pliers to pull them out.
To install new ones: clean the area with solvent to remove all traces of old gasket cement. Clean with sandpaper to make the surface smooth and make sure it is clean and dry.
Use a sealant like Permatex 2 or similar not silicon.
Use a socket or bar equal to the cup diameter to install them and punch them in far enough so the outer edge is flush with the block.
They are inserted in the "cup out" position. In other words they should hold water if the block is horizontal and the cup faces upwards.
To remove ALL traces of casting debris you will need to remove them all and flush or have flushed the block.
For a check only one will need to be removed but if it is corroded it is a wise move to replace them all as a set.
Pete.
To install new ones: clean the area with solvent to remove all traces of old gasket cement. Clean with sandpaper to make the surface smooth and make sure it is clean and dry.
Use a sealant like Permatex 2 or similar not silicon.
Use a socket or bar equal to the cup diameter to install them and punch them in far enough so the outer edge is flush with the block.
They are inserted in the "cup out" position. In other words they should hold water if the block is horizontal and the cup faces upwards.
To remove ALL traces of casting debris you will need to remove them all and flush or have flushed the block.
For a check only one will need to be removed but if it is corroded it is a wise move to replace them all as a set.
Pete.
Pete has given you the optimistic instructions as to how to get the freeze plugs out. They might even work /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif However, get hack saw blade out to cut the side if needed also. They come out really easily when there is a hollow space behind them. but not all of the plugs have enough room behind them to get them to swivel on the way out.
70Herald,
Yep have to say I agree with that.
Some are a real pain to remove and others seem to come out just like it says in the workshop manual.
If they don't pivot far enough to get a grip on with the pliers then punch a hole in them and use any sort of removal technique. They aren't going to reused in any case.
Cheers , Pete.
Yep have to say I agree with that.
Some are a real pain to remove and others seem to come out just like it says in the workshop manual.
If they don't pivot far enough to get a grip on with the pliers then punch a hole in them and use any sort of removal technique. They aren't going to reused in any case.
Cheers , Pete.
G
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Curious, Kevin, you want to remove some freeze plugs with the engine in the car? If it is crud you are looking for, chances are you will find it. Say you find lots of rust and scale, what do you plan on doing about it? Not being curt, but the only way to really clean a corroded block is to have it boiled out.
Unless you have a leaking freeze plug, I wouldn't go around trying to remove one in a functioning engine that is mounted in the car, access is really tough on some of these. Aren't there about a dozen plugs in this engine, only a few of which are accessible with the engine in situ.
That said, is your engine out of the car?
Unless you have a leaking freeze plug, I wouldn't go around trying to remove one in a functioning engine that is mounted in the car, access is really tough on some of these. Aren't there about a dozen plugs in this engine, only a few of which are accessible with the engine in situ.
That said, is your engine out of the car?
swift6
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On the distributor side of the TR6 block, you'll need to tap the top half of the freeze plug to get it to pivot. If you tap the bottom half it won't move as the bottom part is up against sold metal. Most of the freeze plugs on the TR6 block will rotate IIRC. Just tap around on their 'compass points with a drift/punch and they will pivot out.
To answer a few questions, yes, the engine is still in the car. My car supposidly sat for 20 -25 years before I bought it. The reason I wanted to remove the plugs is to try and remove any possible pockets of scale. Last summer when I first got my car running, I started to take it on progressivley longer trips. I was able to drive for about an hour and a half (90 degrees outside) before the temp would start to climb. In a post last summer, a gentleman said that some times scale can collect that can be too large to flush. I know I did not do everything in a logical sequence, but I have done the following to my cooling system in this order so far (note that the engine was running between each number but I flushed the coolant system between each number): 1)flushed cooling system. 2) had the radiator cleaned/cored 3)cleaned/cored heater radiator 4) cleaned obvious obstructions such as water pump housing and water return pipe (return pipe was totally blocked) 5)replaced the thermostat and water pump (pump started to leak around shaft.) I noticed that the coolent drain on the engine is still clogged, with only a steady drip of fluid comming out when I open it. I did take my car on a two hour trip with no increase in temperature last week, but the temperature was only in the 60's. My idea is to remove one plug on the driver side, look for any obvious scale build up, and then decide what I will do next. Is my idea worth persuing or is it a waste of time? I do want to drive my car over the summer. My big goal is to make a road trip to Oklahoma to see my Dad this summer, so this is a big concern (I live in Washington state.)
Thanks, Kevin
Thanks, Kevin
TR6oldtimer
Darth Vader
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]...I was able to drive for about an hour and a half (90 degrees outside) before the temp would start to climb. [/QUOTE]
I see you replaced the thermostat. For summer, you should go with a 160 degree unit. I have driven 4's and 6's in Southern California using the lower temp thermo with no overheating problem. So if not already done, give this a try before attacking your block.
I see you replaced the thermostat. For summer, you should go with a 160 degree unit. I have driven 4's and 6's in Southern California using the lower temp thermo with no overheating problem. So if not already done, give this a try before attacking your block.