The 59AB block had some issues for those who drive long and hard....issues not present in 1946.
One:
Replace all the vales, guides and springs with 49-53 8BA style.
One piece guides, straight stem valves.
Mushroom tips and split guides are a wear spot.
Then, new lifters (adjustable) as original solid fixed lifters aren't heat treated to withstand straight stems.
Rods.....get some 8BA rods, and preferrably an 8BA crank, using your cam and crank gear (different pitch to keep load of cover mounted distributor).
Originals are full-floating, rod bearings being ID size and OD size. Bearings cover two rods at a time, no locks. Resurface crank, resize rods, get bearings to match.
8BA have insert Clevite style, and two oiling holes per rod throw, unlike 59AB with one in the middle.
I have lots of rods, and Ford 8BA cranks.
Some valve train components, but you'll want new of that anyway.
50-53 rods have squirt holes that hit the cylinder walls when the point on the rod bearing lines up with the port in the crank throw. Engines last longer.
I forget...does the 46 Tudor rear windows work like 40-41? Turn the crank one way, window moves back a bit for ventilation, turn the crank the other way the window comes down?
Don't try to beat the rear drums and hubs off!
160 stats, fit into the necks of the heads....no higher (unless dead of winter).
Gotta have them. 60MPH with two water pumps, the water will all go to the top of the tank and over the side.
BTDT.
Yon can use 8BA cam and cam cover (have some of those, too) for an in-the-air distributor (have some of those) and there is a trick to locking it down without using an 8BA head.
Makes life easier.
Dave