Trailers for Hauling a Healey info wanted

[Michael Oritt]

Patrick--

Look into an electric jack for the front. I know it sounds like an unnecessary item but you will come to appreciate it when you have to jack the traker up to get the ball under the tongue, then down to secure it, then back up to install the stabilizer bars and then back down to finish.

I also installed an electric winch inside to load the car off and on. While not a necessity it is a convenience and as someone once told me sooner or later something will happen that will make it difficult to roll the car on without a lot of assistance. That has happened twice to me--once when I broke a rear axle and another after a wreck at PVGP. By having the winch to do the heavy pulling I was able to get the car in the trailer without a dolly, etc.

Like closets, you will quickly find lots of stuff to take along and fill whatever space you have aboard. I keep my tools and most spares in my trailer rather than leaving them home--cars don't break in the shop but rather at the track.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Patrick--

Look into an electric jack for the front. I know it sounds like an unnecessary item but you will come to appreciate it when you have to jack the traker up to get the ball under the tongue, then down to secure it, then back up to install the stabilizer bars and then back down to finish.

I also installed an electric winch inside to load the car off and on. While not a necessity it is a convenience and as someone once told me sooner or later something will happen that will make it difficult to roll the car on without a lot of assistance. That has happened twice to me--once when I broke a rear axle and another after a wreck at PVGP. By having the winch to do the heavy pulling I was able to get the car in the trailer without a dolly, etc.

Like closets, you will quickly find lots of stuff to take along and fill whatever space you have aboard. I keep my tools and most spares in my trailer rather than leaving them home--cars don't break in the shop but rather at the track.

Both you and John say "winch" so that's going to be added to my list as well as the electric jack. What are "stabilizer bars" and are they needed for certain towing applications.
My insurance company says the trailer is covered for liability as long as it's being towed by my car. Collision is apprx $20 per month.

 

[Michael Oritt]

Patrick--

I think that the proper term is a "weight distribution hitch" and in any case it is a system that transfers the trailer's tongue weight from the hitch to the frame. It makes the tow vehicle ride more level and reduces sway, amongst other things. I think it is a necessity for pulling a car trailer but I am sure you will get other opinions.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Patrick--

I think that the proper term is a "weight distribution hitch" and in any case it is a system that transfers the trailer's tongue weight from the hitch to the frame. It makes the tow vehicle ride more level and reduces sway, amongst other things. I think it is a necessity for pulling a car trailer but I am sure you will get other opinions.

Thanks for explaining Michael. I'll check that out. and see if I already have it or need it.

 

[Jerry]

A side point on trailers. The 20 ft trailer I bought came with 4 tie downs that were going to be installed by the dealer. I got the trailer back after installation and found after looking underneath the trailer that they cut the cross beams to install the tie downs flush into the floor. Better measuring would have missed the beams. I made them weld up the cuts in the beam and chewed them out. Since it is a 10000 lb trailer, I did not see a problem with the cut after welding but that was just stupid. After loaning out the trailer and having 3 different cars, I now have an additional 4 tie downs and adjustable track tie downs. The adjustable track is great for loading anything besides cars into the trailer. IE: I brought home a 7 foot lathe and a milling machine in the trailer using a combo of the tie down places with the adjustable track assisting.

Jerry

 

[blueskies]

This always is an interesting topic about which I can offer a few observations, mostly learned the hard way. I have hauled trailers, loaded with everything from cars in small trailers to heavy equipment on tractor/trailer units, countless thousands of miles. Those experiences have taught me tremendous respect for the power of the load back there. Even so, more than once, I have found myself in situations that I did not expect to walk away from.

For hauling cars, I now have two trailers, a 16 foot open trailer and a 28 foot V nose enclosed Pace American. I tow with a 4x4 3/4 ton GMC pickup. Admittedly, a one ton dually 4x4 would be better for towing. The enclosed trailer is usually fine on dry roads when the wind is not strong. On icy roads or when strong winds are present, one has to keep the speed way down or stay off the road. Those trailers, unless possibly one with a 5th wheel set up, act like a sail in the wind. And if the wind takes control of the trailer, look out. Upside down in the ditch is not anyone's idea of a good day. When towing conditions are not perfect, the open trailer works much better, from a safety point of view.

A few comments too about those equalizer or load leveling hitches. Don't place too much faith in them, and if you use them, learn how to set them up properly. They will distribute the weight, but a common error is to transfer too much weight forward in the tow vehicle. That takes weight off the back axle of the tow vehicle, making the vehicle even more susceptible to loss of control on slippery roads and in high winds - or when a gust from a passing semi hits. One can go from complete control to totally out of control, sideways on the road, in a split second - without any warning. That happened to me once, on ice, thanks to a 50 mph side wind. Since then, I put very little pressure on those load leveler chains.

If one tows a lot and values one's life and the cargo being hauled, have a look at a Hensley hitch or another one that uses a similar design. They are expensive but well worth the expenditure. One can buy inexpensive friction type anti-sway bars for the cheaper load leveling/equalizer hitches, but they don't seem to be very effective. Another point - even with a good hitch, proper weight distribution on the trailer is crucial. To help avoid loss of control, one needs to locate more weight in front of the trailer axles than behind the axles. But too much weight in front of the axles can overload the hitch, so getting it right is very important.

 

[Michael Oritt]

To keep this topic alive I'll throw in another issue--how exactly to tie down your vehicle.

Though others will differ I believe that the car needs to be secured by its axles--which is I guess why they call them "axle straps"--so that the chassis can ride on the suspension. I have seen cars tied down by tow eyes mounted to the frame, thus putting the suspension under compression, but I believe this is not the right or good way to do things.

Also the issue of how to configure the straps themselves--should they be crossed or straight? While crossing them at first blush seems to be way to go consider what would happen if one of the straps comes loose: Because the other strap goes from one side of the car to the other side of the trailer floor a lot of slack is created which would allow the car to more easily shift from side to side within the trailer. I tie my straps straight back and as short as possible. And after one near-disasterous experience with straps equipped with open hooks I now use the right kind which have a spring-loaded closing latch.

In any case I always stop after towing a few miles to check on what is going on within the trailer. I have seen disasters when the doors were opened and almost had one myself due to using the wrong kind of straps.

 

[peter41692]

To keep this topic alive I'll throw in another issue--how exactly to tie down your vehicle.

Though others will differ I believe that the car needs to be secured by its axles--which is I guess why they call them "axle straps"--so that the chassis can ride on the suspension. I have seen cars tied down by tow eyes mounted to the frame, thus putting the suspension under compression, but I believe this is not the right or good way to do things.

Also the issue of how to configure the straps themselves--should they be crossed or straight? While crossing them at first blush seems to be way to go consider what would happen if one of the straps comes loose: Because the other strap goes from one side of the car to the other side of the trailer floor a lot of slack is created which would allow the car to more easily shift from side to side within the trailer. I tie my straps straight back and as short as possible. And after one near-disasterous experience with straps equipped with open hooks I now use the right kind which have a spring-loaded closing latch.

In any case I always stop after towing a few miles to check on what is going on within the trailer. I have seen disasters when the doors were opened and almost had one myself due to using the wrong kind of straps.

This is what I use to move my Healey around. 7 x 16' Haulmark Transport 7500 GVW. Its tight on the sides but I'm only moving it from event to event. The tie downs are from Mac's.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Thanks for explaining Michael. I'll check that out. and see if I already have it or need it.

I checked my Tahoe "build sheet" and there's a VR4 "Weight Distribution Platform Hitch" installed. What about a "Tongue Scale" to help in getting the correct weight on the tongue?
https://www.etrailer.com/Tools/Sherline/5780.html

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

This is what I use to move my Healey around. 7 x 16' Haulmark Transport 7500 GVW. Its tight on the sides but I'm only moving it from event to event. The tie downs are from Mac's.

Do you have to winch the car inside the trailer?

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

This is what I use to move my Healey around. 7 x 16' Haulmark Transport 7500 GVW. Its tight on the sides but I'm only moving it from event to event. The tie downs are from Mac's.

I'm ordering my "Lark" brand Trailer today. It's going to be 8.5 x 16 with "V" front, radial tires, vinyl floor, vents, LED lights, beavertail ramp with extensions, D rings, Black exterior, painted underneath. Can you tell me more about your "tie-downs Peter? Please PM me.

 

[Michael Oritt]

Patrick--

I see that you live in Texas and some states--including neighboring Arizona and Louisiana--have 96" wide restrictions on some roads, though I assume that the increased allowable width of 102" must apply to interstates. However you may want to consider going to 96" wide which will allow you access to all roads.

The 20' Carmate trailer which I use for my race cars, all of which are narrower than a Healey, is 96" wide overall with 92.5" clear inside. Though I have only hauled my 100 once there was plenty of room to maneuver around it, especially if the hood was down. BTW I have a left-side "get-out door" which is a nice touch on any trailer and something you may also want to consider.

 

[Randy Forbes]

This is what I use to move my Healey around. 7 x 16' Haulmark Transport 7500 GVW. Its tight on the sides but I'm only moving it from event to event. The tie downs are from Mac's.

Love the E-track (the D-rings that attach to it) and the wheel/tire bonnets shown in your pictures!

I agree completely, that it is best to allow the car to "float" on its suspension, with the axles tied securely. And I like the wheel/tire bonnets the best to accomplish this.

Somewhat off-topic, but BMW, as well as perhaps other modern cars, make their suspension components from softer alloys (in steel or aluminum, a/r) so they will absorb some of the impact, doing minimal damge__when possible__to the uni-body structure. Point is, it is a very bad idea to attach straps to the suspension components of any cars/light trucks that employ the same technology__they can be bent by an overly zealous driver with an extension-bar on his winch(es)!

A week ago, when shipping an ///M Coupe to Miami, the driver, while looking for somewhere to attach his straps, told me that HIS insurance company wouldn't honor a claim submitted if the car was secured with wheel/tire bonnets, as the wheel could come off...! Given HIS reluctance to listen to me about the ductility of the suspension components he wanted to attach to, I suspect he'll learn firsthand how HIS insurance company feels about paying claims for bent front lower control and rear trailing arms.

"Arguing with a truck driver is like wrestling a pig in the mud..."

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Patrick--

I see that you live in Texas and some states--including neighboring Arizona and Louisiana--have 96" wide restrictions on some roads, though I assume that the increased allowable width of 102" must apply to interstates. However you may want to consider going to 96" wide which will allow you access to all roads.

The 20' Carmate trailer which I use for my race cars, all of which are narrower than a Healey, is 96" wide overall with 92.5" clear inside. Though I have only hauled my 100 once there was plenty of room to maneuver around it, especially if the hood was down. BTW I have a left-side "get-out door" which is a nice touch on any trailer and something you may also want to consider.

I'll check with the trailer dealer on the width(thanks for the heads-up). Almost all of the new semi-trucks are pulling a 102" wide trailer. I was in charge of the "trucking division" of a company I used to work for. I remember when the change happened and also the "sun-setting of the ICC. The trailer has a side door on it up front. A good option to go with for sure!

 

[healeyblue]

My motor home is a 102" widebody and I don't have any problems

 

[Michael Oritt]

Apparently there are different width restrictions for trailers and motorhomes.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Apparently there are different width restrictions for trailers and motorhomes.

A guy in our local club says he has never had any problems with his 102" wide trailer. He's had it for several years and goes to races around the country.

 

[blueskies]

https://drivinglaws.aaa.com/laws/trailer-dimensions/

Here is a website with the regulations for the various jurisdictions. It seems that most or all of the states with the 8 foot width limit are located in the south and south east.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

https://drivinglaws.aaa.com/laws/trailer-dimensions/

Here is a website with the regulations for the various jurisdictions. It seems that most or all of the states with the 8 foot width limit are located in the south and south east.

Thanks for sharing! It appears that some of those "southern states" allow the 102" Trailers on"certain roads" which i assume those roads to be Interstates and other major roads.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Thanks for sharing! It appears that some of those "southern states" allow the 102" Trailers on"certain roads" which i assume those roads to be Interstates and other major roads.

I spoke with the dealer this morning. No problems with 102' wide Trailers.