Chassis general reassembly sequence

[jjs64bj8]

Since our 64 BJ8 phase II was pretty much totally disassembled before the invention of the digital camera, we are looking for some general reassembly sequence guidelines. I have some photos and some notes for reference, but have a concern that if not done in a proper sequence some rework might arise.

Our bare newly painted chassis is now ready for rebirth. This is the general sequence that we will follow pending advice from all of you who have been down this road before.

Chassis brake and fuel lines.
Pedal box
Master cylinder and clutch cylinder
Blower motor, ventilation hoses, heater
Brake booster
Steering box
Rear axle, springs, suspension
Emergency brake cables
Front suspension and remaining steering
Remaining under dash items and the dash

A big question is when in the sequence to fit the wiring harness and battery cable.

Another big question is, are there any real gotcha's as to what HAS to be installed before the engine/tranny goes in, Or what absolutely cannot be installed before engine/tranny?

After reading past posts, we have decided to paint all the body panels OFF the car, so that might dictate how much can be refit before get to the final body fitting.

Any advice will be welcomed.

Thanks in advance.

jjs64bj8

 

[Keoke]

After reading past posts, we have decided to paint all the body panels OFF the car, so that might dictate how much can be refit before get to the final body fitting.

I may not understand your statement above ,but the body panels must be fitted to a completely assembled chassis-Sans Trim- then removed and painted then re installed.

 

[Griz]

There are quite a few websites out there by people who have documented their restorations with sequential photos. These can be a great guide. One in particular that I like and refer to quite often as my restoration progresses is foreverhealeys.com.

Griz

 

[Legal Bill]

Start by fitting the body panels to the car. Make sure everything lines up and the seams are how you want them.

 

[andrea]

On my experience Battery cable and Wiring harness must go on just after the brake pipe and fuel line- chassis on rotary help a lot
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/glX00AaSVEEumAjxXT6kd9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
You can follow my rebuild- I haven't any serious problem -I have reassembled all the possible on chassis at coachwork laboratory - and then I have transported it to the mechanic shop- then it returned to coachwork for the final body panels assembly
Remember to test all electrical connections of harness just after it is on chassis- is easy and help a lot -use a 12v 10A supply (in place of battery)to avoid any burning - test light are essential - GROUND connections must be attended in MANIACAL mode
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770...LEY10061958BeginningMayJune2011endMayJune2013
Ask when uncertain-BCForum was my principal help sourcing

 

[HealeyRick]

You don't say what color you are painting it. While it's best to paint solid colors with the panels off the car, it's generally better to paint metallics with the panels on the car to avoid mismatching.

 

[jjs64bj8]

Thanks to the replies thus far, here is a little more info

Car color is solid - Pacific Green

Car is on rotisserie for chassis painting and initial parts install

All body pieces were on/off the car a zillion times getting proper fitment after repairs were made to the chassis (new trunk and driver side floors, sills, etc). During body fitting chassis was loaded with equivalent weight of engine/tranny/etc., so after chassis is assembled plan is to final fit the body to verify for hopefully minor adjustments, final surface prep, then paint.

Really thanks for the tip on checking grounds after harness install.

jjs64bj8

 

[Legal Bill]

Ok, good stuff. Now, are all you parts ready to go on? Has the hardware all been replated, are the suspension parts all painted black, are the hydraulics all rebuilt, is the gas tank cleaned out and painted, do you have all the new rubber bushings and suspension hardware, is the engine, and tranny painted green, do you have all the little clips and grommets and twelve thousand screws, washers and fittings all in the shape you want them to be in and ready to install?

How about all the electrical components that go on the fire wall? Have you tested them, replated the little covers, or replaced them?

Here is how mine was rebuilt:

1. Assemble the suspension front and rear but do not tighten the pinch bolts until the car is fully loaded. You can now roll the car around but do not tighten the fasteners until the suspension is preloaded with the weight of the running gear, etc. Do not forget to tighten these bolts once the engine and tranny are in!!!
2. Mount all the brake components on to the suspension as well.
3. Now stand inside the engine bay and bolt everything on to the firewall. Master cylinders, elecrical components, brake lines, heat shields, linkages, heating doors, heater hoses, blanking plates, etc. All the stuff that will be hard to install with an engine in the way.
4. Mount the hydraulic blocks to the frame as well as the brake booster.
5. Install the fuel pump and fuel tank.
6. Now install all the brake lines and be sure to install the rubber plugs that block off the brake line clip holes you are not using.
7. Lay out the wiring harness starting in the area under the dash and then out the hole in the firewall. Connect the harness to the firewall electric's.
8. If you didn't do it already, you can install the steering box.
9. You can install the horns.

More to come.....

 

[jjs64bj8]

GREAT stuff Legal Bill - Thanks

Has the hardware all been replated,? -In process of zinc plating parts/hardware using Caswell kit - great results thus far
Are the suspension parts all painted black? Either painted or powder coated
Are the hydraulics all rebuilt, - Yes
Is the gas tank cleaned out and painted, In progress
Do you have all the new rubber bushings and suspension hardware, - Yes
Is the engine, and tranny painted green, - Yes all rebuilt
Do you have all the little clips and grommets and twelve thousand screws?, washers and fittings all in the shape you want them to be in and ready to install? - Yes using a lot of stainless and the rest in cue for plating.

How about all the electrical components that go on the fire wall? Have you tested them, replated the little covers, or replaced them? In the cue for plating.

Good tip on leaving suspension pinch bolts not torqued!

I am fortunate in that I have a four post lift (Backyard Buddy) which has and will really help.

jjs64bj8

 

[Legal Bill]

Handbrake, handbrake cable, turnbuckle, etc can all reinstalled and even adjusted.
Before you install the heat shield under the driver's seat, make sure the holes in the floors and the heat shield for the seat runner studs line up right and that the final spacing of the runners will line up well with the seat frames (ask me why I urge you to verify this…).
I may have left out a few things, but it is time to install the body panels and stainless steel beads

 

[AH100M]

jjs64bj8- Not to be pedantic, but it's queue. Which is good, as it's a Britishism.

 

[HEALEYJAG]

I have seen some cars painted with the panels off.....when assembled there was a different color to each panel. Whether the stroke was different when laying the paint..Shooting a vertical vs horizontal panel.it just did not match...

As an amature shooter I have always painted my cars with the panels on insuring the depth of the paint, and application was identical.

Pete

 

[AH100M]

There's a third option that I use. I paint the boot lid and bonnet off of the car as they're pretty easy to fit once painted. The rest of the panels are painted on the car.

 

[jjs64bj8]

We appreciate the painting advice and understand the advantage of painting the body panels on the car for a uniform finish. Our plan (inside a commercial painting booth) is to arrange body panels on stands or hanging (supported) in approx same position as if were on the car. Hopefully this will minimize the getting a non uniform finish. As others have pointed out there is an added risk of damaging the pieces during handling and installation. Just have to be careful.

For those of you who have painted the pieces off the car, how did you address the finish of all the rivets that attach the rear shroud after installation?

Thanks

jjs64bj8

 

[AH100M]

If you're talking about the rivets that fasten the bottom lip of the rear shroud to the boot floor, that lip (and the rivets) was originally painted black, using a brush. At least on 100's. On the six cylinder cars too? Most of the other fasteners are going to be needed to be painted body color.

 

[HealeyRick]

If you're talking about the rivets that fasten the bottom lip of the rear shroud to the boot floor, that lip (and the rivets) was originally painted black, using a brush. At least on 100's. On the six cylinder cars too?.

That lip is also painted black on the 6 cyl cars.

 

[Legal Bill]

We appreciate the painting advice and understand the advantage of painting the body panels on the car for a uniform finish. Our plan (inside a commercial painting booth) is to arrange body panels on stands or hanging (supported) in approx same position as if were on the car. Hopefully this will minimize the getting a non uniform finish. As others have pointed out there is an added risk of damaging the pieces during handling and installation. Just have to be careful.

For those of you who have painted the pieces off the car, how did you address the finish of all the rivets that attach the rear shroud after installation?

Thanks

jjs64bj8

Once assembled you have two choices. Paint the rivets with an artists brush or mask off the area right at the crease and air brush that entire flange. You can try the brush first and if you don't like the finish, then you can airbrush.

 

[Lotuswins]

jjs64bj8,

In talking with David at BCS in Stockton, he recommended you get the car running and driving before final installation of the body panels and boot/bonnet. This is to make the bits much more accessable should something not function or possibly leak. I did just that, and as a side note, I trailered it to our local british car meet when it was in that state. I got more interest in the car than any other entrant.

Another tip is to make sure the aluminum shrouds fit without any stress on them, so they are less likely to fatigue down the road. And, prefitting the grill into the front shroud is a must. It took me two days to get that fit in properly before I had the car painted, and I can't imagine what it would have been like if it was already painted......

Good luck with the journey.