Sorry folks, this post is a bit of a beast.
The car: 1964 MG Midget
The battery died on the way to work this morning. It just up and gave out on me.
A few questions:
1. the date on the battery was 2/06 - does it make sense for it to stop taking a charge within roughly 1 1/2 years?
2. Is there a simple test to see if the generator is working correctly? Someone told me to start it and then disconnect the battery. If the car dies then the alternator/generator isn't charging. I'm skeptical, but would love it if it's that easy.
3. I had the lights on (for safety), fuel pump (obviously), and there's an aftermarket electric fan that was turned on. I don't think that's too much pull for the generator to keep up with. What do you guys think?
Other Questions:
1. The tach has never really worked. It usually moves when the car is cold started (reads about 500 RPMS, actual = ~1500) then it'll randomly bounce around during the first few miles. Eventually it gives up the ghost and sits on 0 and "catches" for a split second or two every so often.
After I put a new battery in the car this morning and started it up the tach picked up right away and was steady @ 900-1000 RPMs during idle. I didn't have any independent way to test the accuracy, but it sure felt right on. Bliped the throttle and the needle moved like it should. But, I got on the road and could tell that it was off. By my estimation I was @ ~4,000 RPMs, but the gauge was reading 3K.
Very long story short, what would cause such a thing? I was going to put off repairing the tach until the off-season, but I'm intrigued, now.
2. Last question, I promise (for this post anyway). This is an idle question.
Cold Start = car starts with no problems within the first crank or two.
Cold Idle (choke all the way out) = RPMS are @ ~1500 - 2K. Feels good.
Warming up Idle (120-160 degrees), no choke = feels great. Fairly smooth idle. no problems.
Operating temps Idle (185 - 210, mostly 190 degrees). Starts with a normal idle and then the RPMS start decreasing until it's barely turning over. I basically gotta keep bliping the throttle or give it a little gas to keep the revs up.
I originally thought it was rich and overloading, but now I'm feeling like it may be a lean condition. Thoughts?
Thank you,
Brian
The car: 1964 MG Midget
The battery died on the way to work this morning. It just up and gave out on me.
A few questions:
1. the date on the battery was 2/06 - does it make sense for it to stop taking a charge within roughly 1 1/2 years?
2. Is there a simple test to see if the generator is working correctly? Someone told me to start it and then disconnect the battery. If the car dies then the alternator/generator isn't charging. I'm skeptical, but would love it if it's that easy.
3. I had the lights on (for safety), fuel pump (obviously), and there's an aftermarket electric fan that was turned on. I don't think that's too much pull for the generator to keep up with. What do you guys think?
Other Questions:
1. The tach has never really worked. It usually moves when the car is cold started (reads about 500 RPMS, actual = ~1500) then it'll randomly bounce around during the first few miles. Eventually it gives up the ghost and sits on 0 and "catches" for a split second or two every so often.
After I put a new battery in the car this morning and started it up the tach picked up right away and was steady @ 900-1000 RPMs during idle. I didn't have any independent way to test the accuracy, but it sure felt right on. Bliped the throttle and the needle moved like it should. But, I got on the road and could tell that it was off. By my estimation I was @ ~4,000 RPMs, but the gauge was reading 3K.
Very long story short, what would cause such a thing? I was going to put off repairing the tach until the off-season, but I'm intrigued, now.
2. Last question, I promise (for this post anyway). This is an idle question.
Cold Start = car starts with no problems within the first crank or two.
Cold Idle (choke all the way out) = RPMS are @ ~1500 - 2K. Feels good.
Warming up Idle (120-160 degrees), no choke = feels great. Fairly smooth idle. no problems.
Operating temps Idle (185 - 210, mostly 190 degrees). Starts with a normal idle and then the RPMS start decreasing until it's barely turning over. I basically gotta keep bliping the throttle or give it a little gas to keep the revs up.
I originally thought it was rich and overloading, but now I'm feeling like it may be a lean condition. Thoughts?
Thank you,
Brian