yup, errrr... no... setting the float too high would have the float closing the valve too soon. However, setting the float too low would result in the carb always running too rich.
Ya have to remember that the float height measured in a ZS carb is when it closes the valve. A larger height closes sooner, and a smaller height closes later. Mainly because of the way the float is mounted in the carb body. Where most floats are attached to the float bowl, the ZS's float is attached to the float bowl lid.
I can't remember the height it should be set to right off hand, and my manuals are at home. If no one comes up with the proper float height before I get home for work I'll be sure to look it up.
In an attempt to avoid pulling the carb off the car to reset the float, have you checked to make sure the mixture needle is actually moving when you turn the fuel mixture screw? This should be as easy as taking the dash pot cover off, removing the piston, turning the fuel mixture screw, and watching the needle for movement. If it doesn't move in and out of the piston body then you might have the set screw set too tight (but that shouldn't be possible).
Another thing that can cause a ZS to always be too rich is if the needle isn't being held in the needle assembly body properly. To check this, remove the piston from the carb, and remove the needle assembly from the piston. The needle should be spring loaded in a brass body and a pin at the top to prevent the needle from popping out and riding too high. If there's no pin holding the needle in, the needle will ALWAYS ride too high too allow for proper fuel mixture adjustment.
I ran circles around that last one with my car when I first got it. Until I found the problem that is. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif The upside that was, once I found that tiny little problem, I was able to fabricate a new retaining pin using a straight pin from a sewing kit.