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Worn clutch bits, etc

aeronca65t

Great Pumpkin
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I wrote about the worn bushing in my clutch arm a few days ago but I discovered more issues so I'm starting a new thread:

After we finished running at the newly-reopened Thompson (Conn) race event I noticed the clutch pedal needed to go to the floor before I got full disengagement of the clutch.

But the week after Thompson, we had rented a house at the beach. We had a dozen family members joining us that week (kids, grandkids, siblings, etc.) so the car only got a cursory safety inspection plus oil change. We had a great time at the beach!

When we arrived at Pittsburgh International Race Complex (Pitt-Race) for the first weekend of the PVGP, the clutch pedal seemed a little worse. There was no air in the system and I hypothesized that the clutch release arm is bent or the throw-out bearing is worn. The system is self-adjusting so there's no issue there.
We make it through the Pitt-Race weekend with some grinding but we do OK. I actually got a podium in one race (third) plus the Worker's Choice in another session (note to non-racers: Worker's Choice is like winning a prize for Miss Congeniality). Anyway, we win a case of beer for each of those so we are well stocked.

But I'm worried about the clutch. It's now at the point that I can barely get it in gear without rolling the car and even shifting into the second, third and forth are rough.

The second weekend of the PVGP puts us in Shenley Park which has a very tight paddock area. I worry about the clutch in these tight quarters and tell my friends I hope I have "one Shenley's worth of clutch pedal left".
There were a few very ugly shifts but we made it through the weekend and had a great time. I ordered parts from Moss while in Pittsburgh in anticipation of pulling things apart when home.

I pulled the motor last Wednesday and found the problem. This is one I don't recall seeing before; a very worn bushing in the clutch release arm. I had a good, used spare arm so in it went. But I wondered what had caused it? Then I realized my throw-out bearing was the "modern" roller type. These cars normally come with a carbon throw-out bearing but I had forgotten that I'd fitted this roller type unit a couple of years ago. Actually, I didn't specifically buy the roller bearing; it came in a used trans trans that I'd picked up. When looking at the roller throw-out bearing vs. the carbon throw-out bearing, there is an obvious difference in thickness. This, in turn, probably changes the fulcrum point of the load. I wonder if this caused increased load on the release arm bushing? It's hard to say, but since I had ordered a normal carbon bearing, I installed it and all the arm geometry should be back to normal. If I were to use another roller bearing in the future, it would have to be with a modified arm to keep the geometry correct. Or the roller bearing thickness would have to be thinner.

One other point; with the incorrect geometry caused by added thickness, the throw-out bearing was not "on center" with the pressure plate. The amount of error is probably minor but still......not good.

Since I was pulling it apart anyway, I decided to fit a new clutch disk. The old one was "biting" fine but a new disk is cheap and it seemed like a useful idea.
Actually the old disk was still decent but the pressure plate was about to break apart! It was riddled with radial heat-stress cracks. I'm glad I decided to replace the disk as it gave me a chance to see this. That pressure plate had been fine about 18 months ago when I installed it.
The funny thing is, I consider myself pretty "easy" on clutches. I never do any drag race starts and my current engine is very mild so it doesn't require a lot of slipping to get launched.

I put in a good, used pressure plate but I will be keeping an eye on it from now on. It's all back together and seems to be working fine. Next weekend I'll be at New Hampshire Motor Speedway so we will see it it's really fixed.

Worn clutch release arm bushing:
DSC_0672.jpg




Thickness difference; roller throw-out bearing vs. carbon throw-out bearing:
DSC_0691.jpg




Radial heat stress cracks in pressure plate:
DSC_0677.jpg
 

Jim_Gruber

Yoda
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Nial, the old ounce of prevention adage applies here. Part of prep work is reliability and being able to finish the race. Good luck next weekend.
 
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On the Rivergate 5 speed kiit (that uses the datsun throwout bearing) they remove the contact pad so that the bearing presses on the clutch fingers. It seems to work. You might check to see if that is an option with your bearing/geometry.
 

Billm

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Nial
Is the worn out bushing floating free in there? The worn out part is on the opposite side from the force it sees in use.
BillM
 
OP
aeronca65t

aeronca65t

Great Pumpkin
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Nial
Is the worn out bushing floating free in there? The worn out part is on the opposite side from the force it sees in use.
BillM

Hmmm?

Not quite sure about that...

The roller throw-out bearing can be seen in the right upper side of the first picture. The wear on the pivot point seems in the correct place to me.

JT--Having the roller press directly on the diaphragm springs might be a solution!
 

Billm

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....but that wear would have given it the extra motion that you were seeing and causing most of your problem (as you already knew)
Bill
 
G

Guest

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I would have to guess the heat cracks are due to heat warping and that due to the malfunctioning clutch lever. Notice it's really only in one area....OR..

Knowing you and the statement, "That pressure plate had been fine about 18 months ago when I installed it" would tell me it's most likely a used plate and upon seeing the rust pits and rivet hole rust rings I would have to guess that PP was installed by you used from outta the spare bits pile. That being said, Lord only knows where it came from, who it was originally installed by and if it was installed correctly.... It mighta already been warped when you got a'holt of it.

I could be full of carp too....which....as we all know.... is the most likely scenario :grin:
 

nomad

Yoda
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Nial, I've read articles on the roller bearing swap for the carbon before. Some say it's not the way to go. Just a look at the two system's can't help but make one ask question's. In the normal roller TO bearing application the bearing normally slides on the tube that surrounds the motion shaft and it is often retracted by a spring on the throw out arm. The carbon bearing moves through an arc when in use and run's constantly against the pressure plate pad. I think that if I fitted the roller TO bearing I would fit a spring to retract it so that it wasn't contacting the pressure plate all the time.

Kurt.
 

Billm

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Kurt
The only possible problem with that is that the bearing would be pulled so far away that it may not make contact when the peddle is pushed. The Mini had a spring but it also had an adjustable stop to prevent over retraction.
BillM
 

nomad

Yoda
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I agree Bill, and I had thought that one would have to figure out a stop or have the slave be fully retracted and use that as a stop.

Kurt.
 
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