Wire wheels: frozen knockoff

[Brian_C]

It's me again.

My driver's side/rear wheel is stuck on. Using a deadblow I can not get the 2-eared knockoff to budge. Looking for some pearls of wisedom from those who've been there, done that.

It also looks like that wheel cyclinder has a leak. The two issues connected? Besides explaining why I can't get the brakes to bleed, of course.

B

 

[jlaird]

No connection.

 

[tony barnhill]

Brian - are you sure you're turning it in the correct direction?

 

[mccalebr]

No connection as Jack said.

Yep...been there...TR3 wires that had not been off in years. Most folks didn't use lube on the threads for fear of them loosening (age old discussion), so they will be dry and tight.

Use PB Blaster liberally to soak the knockoff/hub.

Use a paint pen or indelible marker to mark both knockoff and hub...only way to know if you are making progress.

If you are using one of the rubber faced dead blows from one of the builder marts, it won't do the job; too light, too bouncy. Get either a three or four pound drilling hammer and a couple lengths (12" - 18") of 2x4...I happened to have some oak cutoffs and they are hard enough to withstand the punishment...pine/spruce will splinter easily. Protect the knockoff ear with the wood (held firmly in one hand) and hit the wood with the hammer (held firmly in the other)...and I mean HIT it. Can't be wimpy. A good solid hit will leave the wood touching the knockoff; if it's bouncing away you're not hitting it squarely. Check for progress.

More blaster...may need to wait overnight.

It took me three days to finally see a 1/8" movement. The next day it moved again, then more, and then off.

NOTE - obviously you'll want face protection and a good thick pair of gloves...and your wood holding hand will still tingle all night.

Ray

 

[mccalebr]

Brian - are you sure you're turning it in the correct direction?

Good point...they are reversed from the other side.

Ray

 

[198686d]

Now that is an astute questions, since I spent about 20 minutes las weekend pounding the heck out of a knockoff, having forgotten that I had moved to the other side of the BE.
It's humbling at best.

 

[Brian_C]

Yeah, it's the right way. I think I've checked that about 20 times thinking that surely I'm going the wrong way.

I'll try the wood trick. Yeah, I'm using the rubber-faced deadblow. Gotta find something with more muscle.

B

 

[jlaird]

Rubber not good, lead or brass gives the desired shock.

 

[tony barnhill]

As a last resort, you can use a "whiz wheel" on your air compressor & cut the knock-off off the hub!

 

[Brian_C]

on another note...

Has anyone used the knockoff wrenches for the 2-eared knockoffs? are they any good?

Like this one. https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=37185

Just curious.

 

[Guest]

I've had the same experience. My solution(s):

1. Victoria British sells a knockoff wrench (it's badged by University Motors) that's about 2-3 feet long. Can't think of exactly how long the wrench is (I have one) and it makes quick work of loosening the knock offs..


2. Propane torch. Heat it uniformly around the knockoff. Slowly and have some patience. Figure about ten-fifteen minutes. Then wrench it off.

 

[Cottontop]

on another note...

Has anyone used the knockoff wrenches for the 2-eared knockoffs? are they any good?

I made a 2" thick laminated plywood wrench just like that to tighten/loosen my knockoffs. They will usually do the job IF that is what was used to tighten the knockoff.

If the knockoff was "pounded on", that wooden wrench won't usually get it off. The lever arm is too short to gain the amount of torque required to loosen a stuck knockoff.

IF all else fails, use the biggest STEEL sledge that you can find and BEAT the knckoff off. Then buy a new ($40) knockoff to replace it.

While you have the wheel off, MAKE SURE that your splines are still flat on top and are not alowing the wheel to turn (even a little) separate from the hub. There is LOTS of info on the Net as to how to tell.

If the wheel and hub turn independently, a knockoff can either loosen or tighten beyond belief.

I had bad splines on my V8 Healey and once when hard braking, the RF wheel turned on the hub and pulled the threads out of the brass knockoff. The knockoff then fell off onto the ground. I got stopped B4 the wheel came off and had my wife bring me another knockoff.

THAT made a believer out of me. I bought ALL new front & rear splined hubs and new wire wheels.

Tim

 

[mccalebr]

on another note...

Has anyone used the knockoff wrenches for the 2-eared knockoffs? are they any good?

Like this one. https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=37185

Just curious.

I had one (a freebie with a Moss promotion) and tried it on the frozen TR3 spinner...splintered badly...worth every penny I didn't pay for it in this application...works ok on spinners tightened correctly, but then, so does a deadblow hammer and the hammer takes up very little room.

I wouldn't waste my money.

Ray

 

[DrEntropy]

I carried a lead ingot from a press room (think old newspaper presses) in the boot for YEARS. No scars on the knock-offs, plenty of mass to whack 'em on and off. It now looks like a giant mutant rat's been chewin' on the ends of it. Thirty years of "knockin' on-and-off" has taken its toll.