TR6 Windshield Seal Question... TR-6

[amcboy]

OK my windshield seal leaks slightly less then a open torpedo tube in a submarine...

So, just exactly how difficult is this to remove and replace.

I have an extensive shop at my disposal and (very humbly) above average skills.

Even a 8' drill press if necessary, but probably not.

Anybody done this? Hints? Secrets? White Castles?

 

[Bugeye58]

Jerry, Julian recently did the same thing.
Here's his thread:

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/390997#Post390997

Jeff

 

[amcboy]

Excellent, Thanks!!!!

 

[jjbunn]

You wont find much enlightenment there, I'm afraid. Although I fitted the whole kaboodle (single handed), I haven't yet driven the car in the rain, and so cannot comment on how watertight it is.

The windscreen to body seal tightened down very snug, and I'd be surprised if it leaked. On the other hand, I wasn't happy with the windscreen to glass rubber seal fit ... especially in the top outside corners, where the lip of the seal doesn't sit flush against the frame: there's a couple of millimetres gap.

I used no sealant at all.

For fitting the glass in the windscreen, I first placed the seal on the glass, then threaded a length of tough nylon multi-strand string into the rubber slot destined for the frame's lip, leaving the two ends of the string dangling at the bottom middle of the glass. I then positioned the glass+rubber against the outside of the frame. I then pushed the bottom edge of glass while pulling on one end of the string, so bringing the rubber over the lip. I had to be careful to tug the string in a direction parallel to the glass surface (it's tempting to try to pull the string at right angles to the glass). As I worked around the edge of the screen, it got increasingly harder to pull the string.

I found that it was impossible to go all around using the string, and I then employed a chopstick and nail puller tool to lift the final length of seal over the lip. I had to work very carefully with the tools because the scope for slipping and gouging a piece out of the dash, or scratching the glass, is considerable!

Finally, with the glass secured, I pushed in the plastic silver coated beading trim all around the groove in the outside of the rubber. The beading I got from Moss was in a coil, and I was very scared of straightening it out to fit in the groove ... it felt very fragile. Once I pushed it in all around, I snipped it to leave a 1/2" gap at the bottom of the windscreen, which I will cover with the cover piece later, after everything has taken a few weeks to stretch. I'm not very happy with the fit of the beading, either: it seemed like it should take more effort to place in the groove.

 

[Brosky]

Welcome to the Forum!

I had mine done at a local body shop along with some other under hood painting. That, combined with Julian's info, should give a good idea of what comes apart.

https://www.74tr6.com/glassreplacement.htm

Now is the time to replace the top dash pad if it meeds it. Yes, the windshield frame must come out to do this job, so while you're in there....

Good luck!

 

[amcboy]

Thanks Julian!

I'd heard about the "string" method and I'm glad it wasn't too hard.

Now that I'm actually taking time to look at the manual it doesn't look too bad.

I'm told that sealant needs to be applied to the glass and the frame.

Did you get your seals from Moss? I'm thinking TRF, maybe we can compare...

Paul, ya don't have to pull the frame to do this (at least according to the Bentley folks).

Thanks to everyone, I'll put a full report up when I do this.

 

[Brosky]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Paul, ya don't have to pull the frame to do this (at least according to the Bentley folks). [/QUOTE]

Sorry, maybe I misunderstood. I thought that you wanted to pull the frame. If so, I was commenting on the dash pad. If not, please disregard. My mistake!!

 

[Norton47]

amcboy
FWIW https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/u...4278#Post344278
I used a TRF seal for the second go. It seemed to work better. The second time better results might have been to making sure it was centered better or just from doing it twice.

Don't use a butyl based sealer if you ever want to take it out. These are designed to glue in modern car glass to metal frames. Not to be used with rubber gaskets. I use sealant to between the glass and the gasket before installing the gasket/glass to the frame. I ran sealant between the gasket and frame after installation. I live in Western Washington state and no leaks yet.

Use a lubricant on everything. Even the frame edge. The rubber seal rubs on everything as it is pulled into place and so lubricant will help reduce this friction. I used KY jelly based on a different post. No effects to the rubber seal and cleans up with water.
I was able to use the cord and pull at 90 degrees, sometimes you have to make the pull in small bites and one long pull to just zip it in.

 

[amcboy]

Thanks Norton47!

KY jelly... Interesting.

You've outlined what I'm gonna do. (Even the KY - it makes sense... but, oooh...)

Someday we'll meet and i'll go way off topic and talk about my Norton F1 experiences...

In planes and bikes...

What's up with all the ellipsis...?

Dane Bramage...