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Where to Start?? Questions from a beginner...

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66mkIII

Freshman Member
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Hello everyone,

I am a new member of the BCF (See new member post). And I have a few questions before I begin my restoration.

I am currently in the planning stages of this whole process. The car is a 66 AH 3000 MKIII BJ8. It has been in dry storage, with all fluids drained, on jack stands for the last 30+ years. The engine is turned over on a semi regular basis. My question is where to start? What needs do to happen in order to get the engine running. Running well and drivable I know will be very different story. I know that the clutch is adhered to the flywheel, so fixing that is a given. But can someone give me some guidance as to the order of repairs? Is there a "must have" restoration guide? I have been searching the internet for some time but have been dissapointed in the lack of available "how-to" guides. I have a few repair manuals, just recently purchased the workshop manuals on CD, and of course countless moss and victoria british catalogs laying around. I am pretty mechanically inclined and would like to do as much of the work myself as possible. I know this will be a work in progress for many years.

Any guidance and a shove in the right direction is welcome. Thanks in adavance to all and I look forward to collaborating with you.

- Steven
 
Hi Steven,

Welcome to the BCF and good luck with your project. The very first thing you should do is join your local Austin-Healey club, if you are fortunate enough to live near one. Almost all of the local clubs in the USA and Canada are chapters of the Austin-Healey Club of America, which you should also join. Visit the AHCA website to find the chapter nearest you:

AHCA Chapter List

I would also highly recommend a copy of the Concours Registry Restoration Guidelines, even if you're not interested in restoring the car to be a "show car"! There is a wealth of information in there and for the price of $25 (I believe that's the going rate), it is a real bargain. Visit this webpage for information on the Concours Committee:

Concours Guidelines Ordering Info

Once you have contact with other Healey owners near you, and you're equipped with the Restoration Guidelines, you'll be much better positioned for further assistance. The BCF is great, but unless you plan to spend more time typing posts here than working on your car, you'll be better off if you also link up with your local chapter or at least some other local members, and some of the most knowledgeable Healey people (Concours Committee members) will be happy to help you via telephone.

Good luck!
 
Hello Steve: This is Russ Again from PA: I did a "Body-Off" Restoration on a "1958 MGA": 1st. of All; In My Opinion; I believe; You Must decide what you want out of a Restoration; Meaning a Body-On Nice Driver Cond. or a Body-Off, Trailer Queen Style? Should You decide on a Body-Off; I would be Very Cautious in the way the Body does come off? Ex: My MGA @ the Sill Area with Doors, Bonnet etc removed was a Super Thin Pcs. of Sheet Metal! I needed to Brace the Dash to the Rear Door Jambs with Angle Iron as to Not to Allow the Body to Snap in Half! In most cases; I`ve heard; That the Body does Break in Half Regadless! Mine Did`nt! I`m not sure If the Healeys are basically the same? But; Nevertheless; You must First Decide on What type of Restoration You want to Accomplish!! Then; We`ll go from there: Wishing a Ton of Fun; Russ / Email: scott7@ptd.net
 
Thanks for the Information, I know Central VA has many active British car clubs, and I have been going to the annual shows for years, now I guess its time to get active. Thanks again.

The goals for the car are to first get the car running, safe and as reliable as possible. Once that is acheived, the cosmetics will be a continous work in progess. I plan on driving and and enjoying the car on the road, so having a concours car isnt a top priority, however I would eventually like to show the car and have something I am proud of. Thanks again for all the help
 
Hi 66MK11, Welcome to the forum. I would suggest you do a Google search for ; "Awakening a Sleeping B" you will find all you need to know initially for sorting out your car.--Fwiw--Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
A suggestion would be to go through the hydraulic systems first (brakes and clutch), along with wheel bearings, etc., then on to the engine systems. Engine startup would be last.
 
Don't know where you are in Virginia? I am in Harrisonburg, and I am going through a ground-up, last nut-n-bolt restoration of my 1960 BT7. I am in year four, and just got the painted frame (tub) back from the paint shop. Final assembly now underway. I am not an expert like some on this Forum, but I do have first hand experience at taking one of these things apart and putting it back together ( After intitial priming, I completely assembled the car, then took it apart for painting). Let me know if I can be of any assistance.

Lin
1960 BT7 in restoration
1959 Bugeye
 
I am in the Richmond area, Harrisonburg is a nice place. If you dont mind me asking, who did you have do your paint?
 
I'm almost three years into my 66 BJ8 complete restoration. Randy's suggestion about the hydraulics is good advice. Thirty years of storage, on top of ten years of presumed use, practically guarantees that anything made of rubber is shot. You will probably find also that the steel/aluminum combinations in the hydraulic systems are a mess of corrosion, probably requiring new components, or expensive re-sleeving of the old ones. The brake booster is most assuredly not working, but can be rebuilt or replaced.

My preference would be a thorough restoration, rather than just "getting it running." With that much time in storage, even if you do get it running safely, things will start breaking with regularity pretty soon. But beware. These cars are expensive to restore. And time consuming. If you are up to the challenge, it's a great way to spend a lot of time, and money.
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif

AH3000 = Another Headache and another $3000.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif
 
Jeremy Turner - owner of Maple Hill Restoration. Broadway, Va.

Lin
1960 BT7 in restoration
1959 Bugeye
 
Steven,
You are in the right place on this forum. These guys know stuff that isn't in the manuals. I've been messing with Healeys for 25 years and still learn something new every day. Also, the manuals aren't very specific on the later cars, but here you'll get the information you need. Learn to attach pictures to your posts so we can follow your work. Best of luck.
 
I fully restored '68 BJ7.I am comfortable with mechanical things but this was my first restoration. My experience tells me there is not a start point that can be defined;one thing leeds to another and another and so on until suddenly it is finished! Dive-in with the easily removable bits ,keeping records as you go,this will lead you into to alsorts of strange corners --- revealing more work than expected! But really you will not know what you are into until the rust or absence of ( unlikely!!)situation is known.In summary I would suggest -- get all the 'easy to get at' bits off, bagged and labled,doors included, until good access is available to the frame and where it connects to the body parts.Then the real scope of the work ahead will be known. Best of luck ,I am retired and it took me 4 yrs. very interesting years. 3yrs of wonderful driving has been the pay-off.
 
Yes Randy your thoughts are correct. However, there was one BJ8 car delivered in 1968 and labeled as such. I do not know who the owner of that car is at the present time. Perhaps this Lister means; in 1968 I restored a BJ7??---Fwiw---Keoke
 
could just be a typo?

Did you hear about the dyslexic agnostic insomniac? He was up all night thinking about dog.
 
Welcome to the Forum Steven. My only advice to you would be not to look too far ahead and expect too much. Always try and have fun with what you're doing. Try to enjoy what you've accomplished today. And by all means put "safety first".
Begin by looking at what tools you have and work shop area you'll need. If you think the car would be safe enough to drive without first completely restoring, begin by putting the car up on jack stands. Remove all wheels. Drain all fluids,(including the transmission and overdrive) inspect the brakes. Flush brake, and clutch lines with alcohol. Remove the battery and replace it. Replace all fluids check the manual for quantities required. Try turning the motor over, without spark plugs, by hand. If all seems okay at this point replace spark plugs, mount the wheels and lower back to the ground. Turn the ignition switch on and listen for the electric fuel pump to operate. Allow it operate for at least a full minute. Check for fuel leaks around the carbs. Usually a float will be stuck and needs to be freed up. Once your assured there are no leaks, try starting the engine with the starter. It should start within a few seconds with the choke fully on. Allow to run at least several minutes. Meanwhile, make sure you have brakes by pushing the car by hand with the E brake on. Also pump the brake pedal while friends are pushing the car. If you're fortunate to have a good car at this point begin slowly and avoid traffic at this point. Stop and startup frequently. If your sure all is well take a short trip.
Good Luck
 
SHG said:
could just be a typo?

Did you hear about the dyslexic agnostic insomniac? He was up all night thinking about dog.
Click to expand...
-------------------------------------

How about the dyslexic fellow who went to a toga party dressed as a goat.

Or the dyslexic Xmas caroller who sang "The First Leon"?
 
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