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Where to get my head done [100/4] No, not a shrink

Eric_P

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'56 100/4. I'd like to just get an alum. head but I'm worried the purist vintage groups won't like that. Any suggestions where to get my steel head totally redone (it works but is original)?
 
There's always paint; I mean who walks around with a magnet at car shows?!

Does it look visually different? Considering the notorious nature of the 4cyl head for cracking, if you have a good one, you might want to save it and run the aftermarket head.
 
[ QUOTE ]
'56 100/4. I'd like to just get an alum. head but I'm worried the purist vintage groups won't like that. Any suggestions where to get my steel head totally redone (it works but is original)?

[/ QUOTE ]

Eric--

I'm not sure to which "Purist Vintage Groups" you refer but unless you're intending to race your car with the VSCCA (which does specify "Stock Casting" for Healey 100's) this is probably a non-issue. As suggested you can paint an AL head normal engine color. I believe there are some small external differences in the AL and iron heads but I doubt anyone would notice them and unless you're standing for Concours no one would know much less care. BTW I have served on Concours teams inspecting 100 cars at Conclaves for the five years and we are not issued magnets!

Then again, if there is nothing wrong with your iron head why are you replacing it? It may crack someday but I'd save the bucks till it does. I have a DW AL head on my car but I bought it only after my original one cracked.
 
Well, yeah, I was planning on running the Pittsburg VGP with the VSCCA. I guess my argument to them would be that the car is otherwise stock. I won't be doing the mods many of the guys are doing (cams, flow, crank, carbs, exhaust, etc.). The better head won't be to try to run at the front of the pack. Paint may be a good option too. Hadn't thought of that!

I guess I could just leave well enough alone. I guess I have two fears: 1) catastrophic failure that messes up more than just the head, and 2) being disabled in the middle of an event (PVGP) that I've paid for and dont' want to miss. Or in the middle of nowhere for that matter. (I know, I should being driving a British car then...)

Michael, any chance I could get some more pics of your engine, for reference? Pretty please.
 
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any chance I could get some more pics of your engine?

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Eric--

Here's the first of four comparison photos (attached) The iron head is the one sitting on top of the valve cover and the aluminum one is the one sitting under it :->.

I doubt you can see the differences in any of the photos-- they are VERY minor and have to do with the sharpness of the parting lines, etc. etc. Even the "Westlake Patent" info is the same.

FWIW I think that before you do anything you should exchange some emails with Dave Russell--for my money the smartest guy on this list. I think he can shed a lot of light on the project that you are considering.
 

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Here's another shot from a different angle.
 

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One more.
 

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And the last.

There is, of course, one give-away: The exhaust header is tubular. However DW offers the head in full-stock configuration so I guess you can use the stock exhaust manifold with it.
 

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Eric,
Had my 100 head repaired (14 cracks welded up and built up the face that had 125 thou shaved off), still ok some 4000 miles later.
Cost me about $300, and was a chance taken rather than shell out large $'s for an ali one at the time.
Mind you I am on the lookout for an original cast iron, and or an ali one, as the one I am using has been really worked, mind you I am now back to stock bore and low comp pistons to reduce risk of head failure
 
Michael,
Is your ali head a DW?
I have S/S headers on mine atm and they are tubular, can still put cast unit back on as a straight swap for originality though
 
Wrong button, had to use 2 bakelite spacers for clearance though
 

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Nice--where did you get that? Yes mine is a DW.
 
Eric,
been racing my 100M w/VSCCA for 10 plus yrs. Have a steel head, large valves, flowed, ported, etc. Not super high compression, about 10 to 1. Steel headers from Paeco, jetcoated. JE pistons, Buick lifters, Corrillo rods, DW alloy sump, worked SU carbs, DW alloy carb heat shield, Mallory dual pt dist, dual mast cyc (porsche 914), DW heavy duty od piston, DW clutch linkage, converted throttle to cable type, stiffer shock valves, larger sway bar, Lunatti cam, etc. None of these things are "cheater" stuff by VSCCA standards. Some fellow racers are using a alloy head and SO FAR, no one has made a fuss about it. Big no-no is front disk breaks or minilight wheels.
 
Wangdango,

THAT is what I needed to hear! Thanks. I will not be doing all kinds of competitive mods on this car. I did that with my 911 to vintage race and I don't want to go there again. I just want reliability as much as is reasonable.
I'd like disc brakes but won't go there to keep VSCCA happy. I will be doing dual MC for safety though.

I frequently comb through the VSCCA sites for pics of the cars that are raced. I'm sure I've seen yours. What does it look like?
 
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