Jerry,
Another thought, If the polarity is set correctly also verify the shielding gas regulator is set correctly and that the shielding gas is exiting at the tourch. If you do not have the shielding gas setup correctly the steel will burn-thru immediately when you pull the torch trigger regardless of temperature setting, wire speed setting, wire gauge size, or metal thickness. Attempting to MIG weld without shielding gas, the metal will rapidly oxidize and act more like a cuttting torch instead of a welding torch. The weld, if you can get it to stick, will be very brittle. Before welding pull the trigger and run out four to six feet of wire and then cut the wire back to 1/2 inch from the tip. This will allow the shielding gas to get to the torch before starting to weld. Your last posting of the welded area not having strength brought this to mind. Also, I found using .023 wire is very difficult. You will spend more time cleaning tips with the wire welding itself to the tip with .023 verses .030. That is why I prefer .030 when using my Hobart 210 Ironworker MIG welder for body panel welding. I also use a spool gun for aluminum welding and when converting back to the torch for steel I sometimes forget to switch the shielding gas valve directing the shielding gas to either the spool gun or torch. When the torch trigger or spool gun trigger is first pulled reminds me if I forgot to change the shielding gas valve. The metal (aluminum or steel) without shielding gas will immediately burn thru at first arc...