GBRandy said:
I wonder if the rubber compound used to make the seals matters and the process is not really regulated dependent on the fluid used
ie, most recipe compounds work with DOT3 but only certain recipe's work with DOT5. The user's results are really nothing more than a crap shoot with dramatically different results based on what box you got.
That may be exactly the case.
It is apparently not true any more, but it used to be that Girling seals were not compatible with American DOT 3 brake fluid either. I didn't believe it at first, but I did a test where I rebuilt all the cylinders in my (previous) TR3A with new seals at the same time, and filled the system from a fresh can of Wagner brand fluid. Drove the car around the block a few times to be sure everything worked as it should, then parked it for a few months. 2 months later, both rear brake slaves and the clutch slave had leaked enough to drain the reservoirs!
Then I switched to Castrol brake fluid, and had no further trouble for a year or two. Of course, that is the same car where one of the hard lines rotted through, and left me with no brakes while going downhill into an underground parking garage (with no outlet). The car was no great loss, but I sure do miss that engine...
If I had to change all the seals to convert to DOT 5, I would still feel that it was worth it.
One other anecdote: When my first (and only) new car (a Chevy) got to about 80,000 miles, one of the front calipers started to leak. I replaced the one caliper with a rebuilt, and converted to DOT 5 by just bleeding through (no flushing). After that, I never touched the hydraulics again. They were still working fine when the car got junked with over 250,000 on the clock.