upgrades?

[jmorgan456]

In my earlier thread - I go much needed advice on planning and sources.

what about upgrades? At present, I am thinking about new valve seats, a spin-on filter, new distributor, brake booster, and possible a later CAM.

I am also thinking about upgrading the electrical.

I suspect I should get out my flame suit - but what is the consensus on this list?

 

[longbridgehealey]

Swap your generator for an alternator, if it isn't already, go to a negative ground.

 

[GregW]

In my earlier thread - I go much needed advice on planning and sources.

what about upgrades? At present, I am thinking about new valve seats, a spin-on filter, new distributor, brake booster, and possible a later CAM.

I am also thinking about upgrading the electrical.

I suspect I should get out my flame suit - but what is the consensus on this list?

When you say flame suit, does that mean you're bad at electrical wiring? :laugh:
In regards to engine upgrades, I suggest having a clear picture of what you want the motor to do first. Then choose all the components and mods to fit that vision and build it that way from the start. For instance, the cam and high ratio rocker arms I installed required that the engine block be machined for the exhaust valves. Not an easy task if the motor is already in the car. Also with the cam, you need to consider modding the intake and exhaust depending on how radical a grind you go with.

 

[TimK]

High-lift high-duration cams need high compression and larger carbs and headers to make it all worthwhile. Also high-duration cams cause lumpy idle and loss of low-end torque. For street use, stick to mild cams(250 degree overlap) that keep the torque peak at relatively low rpms. By the way, I'm very happy with my totally stock 3.0L. My experience with high-lift, high-duration cams (300 degree overlap) was in my racing MGB. It was very hard to get off the line and had little power below about 4,000 rpm, after that, however, it was amazing.

Once, again I recommend getting the April issue of Healey Marque and looking at Lin Rose's list of mods he did -- it's exhaustive.

 

[GregW]

Also high-duration cams cause lumpy idle and loss of low-end torque. For street use, stick to mild cams(250 degree overlap) that keep the torque peak at relatively low rpms. By the way, I'm very happy with my totally stock 3.0L. My experience with high-lift, high-duration cams (300 degree overlap) was in my racing MGB.

Dang Tim, with 300° <span style="font-weight: bold">overlap</span>, why bother with a cam at all? Just remove the valves.
From what I understand, a 300° cam will be more radical on a smaller engine. So on a 3 liter engine (as opposed to a 1.8) you can come "On cam" at a lower RPM. I have a 268° cam with a total lift of .430" and its idle is very smooth. There is a good thread in the archives about different cam choices. Definitely a good read.

 

[bt7tricarb]

Here are the modifications done during my car's restoration:

Under the bonnet

- Aluminum valve cover
- Denis Welch aluminum sump pan
- Double-core radiator
- Radiator overflow bottle
- Bored out to .0030 over BJ8/Larger Cam
- Alternator
- Spin on oil filter
- Six blade flex fan
- Gear reduction starter

Interior area

- Mike Lempert custom steering wheel
- Floor and glove tray interior lights
- Two port “cigarette lighter” style power supply (hidden under heater box)
- Cruise control (controls in ash tray)
- Speakers (with hidden crossover) installed for stereo
- Heat shield under carpet
- Seat back adjustment (lower seat pivot point)

Undercarriage

- Denis Welch rear leaf springs
- Adjustable steering column
- BJ8 anti-sway bar and Polyurethane Bushings and end links

Misc.

- 28% Overdrive
- BJ8 Flywheel/Clutch
- Negative ground
- Electronic ignition
- Aluminum fuel tank
- Dual Flowmaster fuel pumps w/kill switch for added security
- Brake boost
- Stainless braided brake lines
- Rear reflectors converted to turn-signals and brake lamps (L.E.D.)
- Rear crank seal kit
- Powder coating: Multiple items
- Stainless exhaust w/Dennis Welch heavy-duty stainless mounting
- Dayton 60 spoke chrome/stainless wire wheels
- Seat belts (front and rear)
- Custom top w/zip out rear window

 

[Michael Oritt]

My 100 has a DW stage 2 cam and header plus roller rockers and other goodies--as I recall duration is about 270 degrees. It sounds somewhat lumpy and radical at idle but is really quite benign and pulls well from low revs up past 6K.

The MG 1600 engine in my Courier has over 300 degrees duration and very little power below 4K but is not hard to get off the line.

 

[andybj8]

With respect to everyone on the list, its not the best question to answer till you have decided and outlined what route you want to take.

At the end of the day its 1.concours, 2.keeping period, 3.or what the heck lets do it, 4.or pimp my ride.

So until you outline the above, its impossible to answer. Whilst some will like the alternator, 123 ignition, etc they all all modern replacements and as such dont look original for the year of the car, whilst I like to see all types from efi engines mods to totally standard, you have to choose the route.

If its modern then steve, michael or greg will give you great advice, or alan or keoke will know the best standard / slightly period moded route.

At the end of the day what do you want???


My choice was period correct, and as such the mods are hard to notice, ie unleaded head, crank seal kit, recored radiator slightly wide than stock, negative earth, electronic SU fuel pump, polybushes etc

Just my 2 pennies, otherwise everyone will give you advice on totally different views without knowing some guidelines...


cheers Andy

 

[TimK]

Dang Tim, with 300° overlap, why bother with a cam at all? Just remove the valves.

Sorry, I meant duration.

 

[jmorgan456]

In answer to: what you doing with it?

I want a decent driver. I want safety and reliability. If I can easily up the performance - good.

I am rebuilding the engine anyway. If there is a gentle modded CAM that will up the ante without sacrificing driveability - I want it.

If it is a choice between period correct and safety or reliability - period correct loses.

I have no patience at all for concourse.

I plan to dive it approx 6K a year - around locally with perhaps one jaunt.

 

[TimK]

Reasonable objectives. Lin Rose upgraded the cam to BJ8 specs. and used BJ8 2" SU carbs (vs. the 1 3/4" on the BT7). Denis Welch has a website with all sorts of performance items. Check it out if you've got a flexible budget.

 

[glemon]

Those are in my opinion good objectives.

I know a number of guys who built a motor, decided they wanted more power, went more radical, and either have an engine they don't like to drive on the street or can't get to run right, often going for too much cam or compression or both.

There are a number of things you can do with little or no downside to up performance a little, as noted the bj8 cam and carb specs are a good start, don't know what stock comp. ratio is, but upping to about 9.0 or 9.5 to one is usually good for a street motor that does not have engine managment control.

Also Pertronix can up power a little bit, I think grassroots motorsports tested and got an additional 3-4 horsepower out of this mod alone.

You might want to have the distributor rebuilt and recurved by Jeff at Advanced
Distributor, one mod that will not look stock but could be made to be easily reversible is a cold air box ducting cold air to the carbs, this doens't gain HP so much as keep you from losing it as the engine compartment heats up (they get very hot in Healeys) and the air charge gets less dense.

Although I have not done it people speak highly of getting a header and then having the jet hot coating applied to insulate it. Once again keep underhood temps down.

Lightened flywheel is also good, none of these things in and of themselves will make a huge difference but a few HP here and there adds up, and most of what I have listed are little or no downside mods in my opinion.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

I just installed Torrington bearings in the upper trunnions of the front suspension. With 185/70 radials, 6-inch rims and a stiffer front sway bar the steering was getting a bit heavy (or I'm getting old :wink:. The Torrington bearings lighten the steering effort considerably.

I have a spin-on oil filter for convenience, electronic SU fuel pump for reliability and Pertronix under-the-cap ignition for convenience, smoothness, quicker starts and a bit of performance.

I also have K&N air filters with interior stubby ram stacks--was never comfortable driving through a dust storm with the stock 'brillo pad' air 'filters' (aka 'grasshopper stoppers').

 

[Rob Glasgow]

To all the other great suggestions, I would add (1) Change the rear end ratio to 3.54 and (2) If you plan to drive in the cooler months, a factory hard top. They both add to the enjoyment....

 

[HealeyPassion]

Great thread with good suggestions. For a slightly modified all around touring combination Lin's is a great blueprint. Mine choice was very similar, i.e. .020 overbore, full circle rear seal, lightened flywheel, BJ8 cam, unleaded fuel conversion, ProRace dynamic balancer, race level balance job, alternator, spin-on filter, high torque mini-starter, electronic distributor, six bladed fan, and tri-carb intake/exhaust manifolds. The difference in mine is that I went with electronic fuel injection for my fuel needs. While this isn't for everyone, it runs very nice.

The best advice was to know what your goals are when you start. It's much easier to do it now than later.

Good hunting.

Cheers,
Steve
1963 BJ7 Works Rally replica w/mods

 

[jmorgan456]

Thanks folks - It gives me a lot to think about.

 

[Lin]

Since my car and list of modifications has been talked about, I suppose I should chime in here as well.

I agree with others who have said knowing what you want in the end is key. That should drive your choices.

Having just finished an 8,000 mile cross country trip in my Healey I can tell you that (at least for a fellow 6' 2" and 240 lbs) the cruise control was a godsend. Also the intermittent wipers were quite nice.

I have headers and "Big Bore" (2") exhaust. I think it makes for a lovely exhaust note, but others might find it a little loud.

The bottom line is that the decision making process on what you want to do and can afford to do is, and should be, tons of fun. Enjoy it!

By the way, on my trip I stopped and visited with Steve Thompton (Healey Passion)in Colorado. His air conditioning and electronic fuel injection are just awesome! The engine is smooth as silk.

Lin

 

[Cottontop]

Having just finished an 8,000 mile cross country trip in my Healey

Hi Lin,

WELCOME HOME ! I followed you guys nearly every day. It looks like you all had a BALL !

I look forward to your foto-filled trip report.

Tim

PS: How'd the windows work out ?

 

[Lin]

Hello Tim,

Yes, i will try to get something about the trip on my website before too long. Right now I am just trying to catch up with work.

It sounds like you are making progress!

The solid side curtains were absolutely great when it was cooler. Almost like glass, pretty noise free. The side curtain I made with the flap was fine for the toll booths, however, as we expected the opening was not large enough to provide much ventilation. I also discovered that the clear acrylic hinge material is not flexible enough for long term use although it is easy enough to just slip a new hinge on the glass. The acrylic is just a little too brittle to stand up to constant folding - the polyester works better, but isn't as esthetically pleasing. Oh well, this is a process of continual refinement. As others warned, the Lexan does scratch and scuff rather easily. Can you drill a hole in safety or auto glass?

Lin

 

[AJAX50]

The most suitable upgrades depend to some extent what you want the car to be: a grand touring type or a sports car.
I've gone for the latter. One mod that serves both alternatives well is to lighten and strengthen the valve gear. I've put in lightened cam followers, tubular push rods and steel rocker supports. The effect is to make the engine feel much smoother and quieter.