U-joint removal tip any TR

[Dono]

Big Sky Greetings!
My 71 Spit proj: removing U-joints. Manual says to tap the housing and drive them out. Better: Use a socket that fits inside the face, say 1/2". Use a second socket >1" across the other side. Fit both sockets into a lg vise with the U-joint b/w. Liberal amts of WD40, and a push them out. One I worked back & forth, finally resorting to my torch to heat the housing, and pushed them out. Total time for 2 U-joints, 3 hrs.

These are from the drive shaft, glad to do them now since after re-assembly it's tough! Yes, I'm buying new ones, those needle bearings were sticky, and I lost one - but $45 for 2 new ones is great peace of mind later. Even'in! Don

 

[DrEntropy]

Next time ya have to disassemble a forty year old assembly try PB Blaster instead of WD-40 as a 'loose juice'.

With U-J's it's helpful to have a good bench vise too.

Someplace on the 'net (YouTube, I believe) there is a vid of a fella named John Twist changing out U-J's in a couple of minutes. Search it and be amused. His method is basically sound, his "Beat the Clock" vid shows a kinda brutal bedside manner tho.

 

[Andrew Mace]

There's also this method...and some good advice from Bill Davies of Rarebits4Classics in the UK.

 

[dklawson]

I have replaced u-joints on our GT6 and the project Spit. The way it's described in the manuals always makes it sound like it should be a piece of cake. In practice I have yet to have one come apart and go together without complications. I'd be very happy with your 2 joints in three hours.

Doctor, I'll look for the University Motors YouTube video you mentioned. I've watched a lot of his other "how-to" demonstrations. I cringed when watching his "make a gasket" demo and I watched in disbelief when he filled the bores of an MGB engine with gasoline to test how fast the cylinders leaked down.

 

[DrEntropy]

It ~is~ kinda brutal. He does things I'd not do, or would do with a bit more "finesse" but he does "git 'er done"... I've cringed at MOST of his vids. But I'll allow that he's working in a production environment. Time=money. My paradigm is a bit different, we usually worked on things there were few available replacement bits for. What was available was usually (very) expensive. Time was less expensive than taking the chance to booger something up, then need to source a replacement or repair it (further).

 

[RonMacPherson]

PB Blaster=Good;

Kroll= Great!!

 

[DrEntropy]

Yeah, no argie. It's just that PB Blaster is readily available in most parts stores. Ya usually gotta hunt for Kroil.

 

[TR3driver]

Do you mean 'Kroil' or 'Sili-Kroil' ?

I can't see that Kroil is any better than PBB; but haven't tried SiliKroil.

And even Wally-Mart has PBB, which in many areas means you can run out and pick up another can at 11PM on Saturday. Last I heard, Kroil was only available by mail order.

 

[poolboy]

I have seen Kroil "the oil that creeps" in the NAPA store. YMMV

 

[DougF]

The only thing I use WD40 for on cars is spraying chrome so it doesn't rust over the winter. It is a nice product to have around the home, but not an effective one to have in the garage.
Kroil and PB are two of the better products available at retail. There are others that work well, according to my customers, but I can't personally vouch for them, nor can I remember their names.
The key to a penetrant is to allow it time to work. People typically give them a couple minutes, but in most cases they need any where from 30 minutes to overnight to a several days.
I have come to the conclusion after selling penetrants for many years, that it is good to have several types on the shelf. Some products seem to work better at different applications than others.
U joints can be great at increasing your vocabulary.
Good luck.

 

[DrEntropy]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] U joints can be great at increasing your vocabulary. [/QUOTE]

:lol:


...and a great way to learn patience and perseverance, too!

 

[foxtrapper]

Do you mean 'Kroil' or 'Sili-Kroil' ?
I can't see that Kroil is any better than PBB; but haven't tried SiliKroil.

Fwiw, I haven't found Sili-Kroil to be any better than LiquidWrench-with Teflon. Emphasize that "with teflon" bit. Stuff works darn well, especially at keeping parts moving once they've broken free.