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Tri-Carb Project

OP
Healey Nut

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Lighting mock-ups all completed. Rally sump guard done. Grille surround test fitted, ready for rechrome along with my custom-made-by-me trim rings for the upper rally lights.

Next is the rear seat blank-off plates, then she's off for exterior paint once my place in the queue comes up.
 

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OP
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Seat blanks , done.
they just need some seam sealer around the edge then it will all get covered with Kilmat.
 

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dougie

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Nice work on the seat blanks. I love the looks of the rear seats delete...;)
 

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OP
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Well that’s all the Kilmat taken care of , when I find my roller I will roll it down some more .
On to my next project while I wait for the car to go to paint .
Original as sold with the car (serial number on BMHIT cert) hardtop , it looks untouched but will be getting a full makeover complete with rally vent . Can’t have a little rally car without a rally vent can we .
Oh and before anyone asks ITS NOT FOR SALE . sorry .
I have a whole box of parts from Cape with new headliner , crash pad material , quarter panels , badges , window , seals etc but it’s all got to get stripped first and cut for the rally vent .
Does anyone have a measurement of how far the vent should be from the top of the rear window ?
It will probably be determined by the position of the headliner frame members as well .
 

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John Turney

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The vent should indeed be positioned based on the headliner frame. I also recommend you put some of that foil based insulation on the inside of the fiberglass above the headliner, I have a dark top and I can feel the heat radiating down. Then again, I don't have any insulation on the top of my head.
 
OP
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The vent should indeed be positioned based on the headliner frame. I also recommend you put some of that foil based insulation on the inside of the fiberglass above the headliner, I have a dark top and I can feel the heat radiating down. Then again, I don't have any insulation on the top of my head.
Same here John , all my insulation has long since gone , the top of my head is as bare and smooth as the outside of the hardtop .
Good idea on the foil insulation , I do have some left over anyways . 👍👍
 
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I remember reading somewhere about someone spraying the inside of their hardtop with “Lizard Skin”.
Anyone with experience of this product ?
Did they apply it themselves and can you still refit all the headliner etc once it’s sprayed on ?
 

vette

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I have used Lizard Skin. I like it a lot. But since I have never attached a hard top headliner I don’t know the implication.
I sprayed Lizard skin over the complete cockpit area of my Healey after i restored the body. Lizard Skin has 2 products, one is a sound insulation and the other is a ceramic heat insulation. It’s been a long time ago so I don’t remember the sequence but they are both very watery when sprayed. You need a large nozzle spray gun to move the fluid. I remember when I sprayed it I thought ‘my god that stuff will never dry.’ But by the next day it was quite dry with no problems. It sets up very firm and is watertight. I also believe the insulation quality is very good because I don’t feel that my Healey gets excessively hot in the interior.
 

John Turney

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The headliner for the roadsters has a metal frame, so there’s a gap between the headliner and fiberglass top. The headliner for the convertibles is a foam layer glued to the inside of the fiberglass (I think).

The reason for using foil insulation is the heat transfer is by radiation more than conduction.
 
OP
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A successful afternoon in the shop , got the top all apart . Had to zip wheel most of the heads of screws etc .
So it’s a pile of parts now the fun begins cleaning sand blasting fixing straightening painting dry fitting etc etc .
The black sealant they used to help hold/seal the aluminum extrusions to the shell was very difficult to break loose , lots of twisting and some cursing but I won in the end .
Anyone have any input on the writing marks inside the shell ?
 

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